blueyedbiker

Re #2, apologies, footwell carpets not available any more.

A few decent bits from the clearout, photos available if you're interested. 2 x underseat carpets. Long cockpit/de dion. Slightly used but clean. £10 Pair of footwell carpets, unused. £20 Rear bulkhead carpet and tunnel carpet, (say's "not full" on the bag) cutout for 5 speed. £30 Full tonneau, no cutouts for seat backs or steering wheel, removeable patch for a petty strut. £50 Facet cube fuel pump 40105. (red wire cut quite short). £20 Pair of S/S sill protectors, still with protective film. 415mm long, square corners. £10 Right hand (off side) S/S rear wing protector, 450mm to the pointy end, still with protective film. £10 Make me an offer if you think I'm being an optimist. ** Coming soon on Ebay, Gold coloured K series EU2 plug cover**

Destined for the skip if no takers, most from long cockpit, X Flow, some "K" series, some unknown. Pictures available if you're interested. Collect from High Wycombe/Beaconsfield area (HP10) or pay postage costs. Do a bung for the club charity if you're feeling so inclined. So, Assorted X Flow gaskets Fan belt QBA762 Pair of "engine restraints". (From the good old days when the rubber engine mounts used to let go with spectacular results. Not needed with current mounts). Aldon/Lucas dizzy bits 103FXYULS (unleaded). Looks complete. Plastic mudguards for 8" trailer wheels Steering column covers (Ali) - scuttle/footwell and footwell exit. 1 Grommet Filter king + 2 mounting plates Assorted plugs, old but unused; 4X BCPR7ES, 5X B6ES, 4X RC6YCC, 2X BP6ES Tatty boot cover, probably from FIA roll bar. Bag of assorted jets. All push in not screw in, from a Weber carburettor? Bag of assorted K series cam follower shims. (10mm dia, +/-3mm) Bag of assorted oil pressure "T"'s. X Flow. 60mm dia wheel centre cap 12v Facet 574A fuel pump + spare filter. V old but runs Luke 6 point harness. Old but no cuts or chaffing, shoulder pads a bit stiff. Bolts and top hats.

Yep, remember it well. What's happened to the butcher, never open these days?

Where are you then, I'm up by the Chequers (from where I'm barred by the way, long story)?

Dark coloured car with a full hood heading up to Holtspur from Wooburn Green, 2.00pm ish?

PM sent. John.

I have a couple for a 711m block, they bolt on to the 4 engine mounts on the side of the block. PM me if they're of interest. South Bucks based.

PM sent

Sorry to piss on the bonfire chaps but there's enough people out there trying to keep our cars off the road as it is, is it wise to give them more ammunition in the form of increased decibels? As a biker there's nothing that pisses me off more than the clowns who take the baffles out off the cans so that you can hear them half a mile away as they pull 18,000 rpm.

You can down load a chart from Burton; https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-manufacture-dates.html This gives the date of manufacture from the engine number, acceptable at the SVA as proof of age, anything pre '75 should be just the smoke test. If the block has been skimmed the original number may have disappeared so time to get creative with a set of punches.

Quite. How does one tell which version they are? Mine's on 45's.

Picture gives an idea of how the springs fit

Good question. As the springs were a poor fit on the back plate I would assume that the springs are a Hi Spec product, you'd expect Mintex to supply springs that actually fit although the guy at Hi Spec did say there's a lot of variation in manufacture. In order to get the springs to clip on to the back plate I had to grind off some off the thickness of the back plate and then the "arms" of the springs were nowhere near the pins hence the need for some "re-profiling". Seems to have worked, all quiet at the mo.

...anti rattle springs. There'd been an irritating rotational clack from the Hi Spec Ultralite 4 front calipers caused by overly large holes in the Mintex 1144 pads and badly fitting anti rattle springs. Solved by grinding down the edge of the backplate and a judicious bending of the springs, managing to snap one in the process.

With the sandwich plate cut in half horizontally both halves can still be attached to block/bellhousing to stop the crud getting in there but by removing the bottom part you can access the front screws on the sump pan when you need to to remove it. Dog of a job otherwise.

Hmmm, never thought of that, good shout.

4 pot Hi Spec Ultralites on the front of mine with a fairly irritating clack as the wheel rotates, any solutions? Ta.

Engine crane's handy for lifting on to stands, saves the faff of jacking.

When you come to replace the bolt, with a standard bolt the relationship between the shank and threaded section is such that there will be a lot of thread inside the bottom bush of the damper. Bearing in mind that all the forces of that corner of the suspension will be taken on the bolt a better option in my opinion is to source a longer bolt with a correspondingly longer shank and crop the end threads off so that most of the shank will support the bottom bush. There are schools of thought that suggest cropping a bolt reduces its strength but I feel happier with the shank doing the work rather than the thread.

Very superior garage floor, most impressive.

What's the story of the car? (Above).

Caution! When it's all back together don't pull the handbrake until the system has been bled and the pads are up against the discs.

Just curious to know what the application is?

Naaah, definitely not factory, that would be 2 letters (the last 2 letters from the original vehicle's VIN) to denote the year, eg NA = July 1973 followed by 5 numbers which would correspond to the 5 numbers of the VIN. This one looks like a serial number of the bloke who did a rebuild, as soon as the block gets skimmed most of the numbers disappear so you can be creative with a set of punches to validate your engine as being pre '75, crucial for an IVA.