blueyedbiker

Just the 18 years to build mine.

Optimistic I know, but anyone know where I might find a set of high lift roller rockers for a X flow? With the hen's teeth and Jim Whiting sump pans I guess. Ta.

Think it went "yes, no, yes, no........."

Got to be a gag there; "sometimes it will, sometimes it won't", I thought that's what they're supposed to do.

I'd check the rear wheel balance weights first.

2 pairs of springs; 6" x 80mm o.d 450lb (look unused) and 7" x 80mm o.d 350lb (few surface marks). Nominal donation to the charity plus postage or collect near Beaconsfield.

Probably explains why it was up in the garage loft. I'll see if Jacob Rees Mogg would like it for next time he goes swimming. Thanks!

During a garage clear out I've come across a X Flow crankshaft with some surface rust on the bearing faces so they would need to be ground down. With a digital vernier caliper so not entirely accurate the diameters come out at Mains 53.49 - 53.56 and big ends 48.69 - 48.74. Would this be usable or is it now an attractive door stop? Thanks.

Gillingham I believe still. I took my car there back in 2018 and the inspectors there were very helpful and fair.

Possibly the first sign that the cable is on its last legs.

Steve Curson at Vulcan near Brands Hatch knows his way around a X Flow, having worked his magic mine's up at 168hp and drives well.

Which is the stronger out of interest?

We have to think what these plates are for chaps, if my missus or kids were taken out by a car with "small" or "period" plates which didn't show up on CCTV I'd be somewhat miffed.

11 ish this morning??

Thanks Jonathan, in order; And to you! 2000 X Flow, De dion Separate Yes (ish) and available Yes Yes Jim Whiting went over it to make sure it was screwed together properly (it is) and replaced a faulty hazard warning switch Bonkers mad week ahead so it will be a while before I can look at it. Again, thanks JK.

The red ignition light doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on, apart from a dodgy lamp, any suggestions as to where to start looking for the fault and any potential problems running it like it is? Auto electrics not one of my strong points. Ta.

Nice "period" AA badge too.

Re #32, it's interesting what the new normal is, rather like red wine. Back in the day 12% was "about right", in the Rothschild museum up at Mentmore there's a display of all the Mouton Rothschild labels back over the last century or so, most of them 11 1/2 - 12% until the recent vintages where it gets up to 13%. These days it's rare to come across any red wine less than 13%. Same with 7's, the old supersprint spec with a 135bhp Kent or twin cam was deemed to be "about right". How tastes change.

As in #4, extra horses rarely makes the car go any faster, it just loads up other parts of the drive train which might not be up to it and simply changing one component can highlight deficiencies elsewhere but if it’s serious top trumps down the pub you’re after and you have deep pockets, go ahead, spend and enjoy! If you just want the car to go faster there are much cheaper, more effective ways of going about it, cheapest of all is to learn to drive it properly, first stop is Carroll Smith’s “Drive to win”, borrow my copy, it won’t cost you a bean. Next sort out the tyre pressures, the difference is huge. If you’re ready to start spending, a decent chassis set up to maximise what you’ve already got is next, and if you can afford it, put some decent dampers on it, the best ones you can afford or get the existing ones serviced. For racing or serious track day amusement beef up the brakes or even just optimise the pads you’re using. Don’t know what diff you’re using but going down to a 3.9 gives the car extra zip. For me, only when all the above is ticked would I even consider touching the engine.

Thanks for the responses. #4, I'll pass that on when it goes back in and #5, I think that's the bit they changed.

Yep, just waiting for my membership to come through but in the meanwhile I wondered if the collected wisdom of our community might have a clue.

#2. Thought the TC would've fetched more.

A problem with the Jag transmission, it's an XK, which defaults from automatic to manual of its own accord. The "cancellation module" has been replaced but the fault persists. It appears to be related to turning the steering wheel, mostly to the right but not always and the paddles are working properly so it's not being caused by inadvertent catching of the paddles. Any suggestions?

Sure, no problem.

Hi, I had an inkling that the plug cover might be worth a bob or two so it's currently on Ebay so feel free to make a bid.