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blueyedbiker

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Everything posted by blueyedbiker

  1. blueyedbiker
    Child for sale to finance extortionate amount of money needed for eBay purchase of JW sump pan. Can't bring myself to put the amount in writing but it was a lot. Seriously a lot. I've bought respectable cars for less. Thank goodness for Amex.
  2. blueyedbiker
    Optimist of the day but anyone out there willing to part with a JW X flow sump pan? Anything considered. Prepared to auction off the children if needs be. Ta.
  3. blueyedbiker
    Today's optimist, however, does anyone know if there are any of the fabled JW X Flow sumps out there? Anything considered. Track day looming and the old tin job's on it's last legs. Ta v m.
  4. blueyedbiker
    Great, ta, replied. John.
  5. blueyedbiker
    Bought from CCC 2 years ago, never used, all in original packaging. Kit Part number; HT12K Heater assembly; 3EH010B Includes; heater assembly, hose, valve, cable, hose clips, screws. Not included; Retro fit angle plate. Suitable for S3, SV, CSR, or all cars 2014 onwards or more or less any car with fresh air bonnet louvres. Price paid back then was £262 + VAT so I'd have thought £150 would be a fair asking price.
  6. blueyedbiker
    I found the guys at the DVLA were UBELEIVABLY helpful, they quote a 6 week turnaround but mine would've been done in 2 if I'd had the correct forms and receipts. All communications by email with a quick response time.
  7. blueyedbiker
    Try Bronwyn Getkate (Bronwyn.Getkate@caterham.com) . She sent me a dummy form with all the various codes that speeded the process up.
  8. blueyedbiker
    Speedograph Richfield will recalibrate for about £75, easy enough to do, measure the number of turns the drive does for 6 wheel rotations, there's a form on their website. http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/
  9. blueyedbiker
    Give Lance at OJZ Engineering a call, he'll make one up for you.
  10. blueyedbiker
    Yep, good luck, not the end of the world if it fails though, hassle and another £90 but the retest is only on the bits that failed.
  11. blueyedbiker
    Don't know if you've tried it or not but take the steering column out of the rack UJ to check the friction of the column bushes, if that's ok put the column end back and disconnect the track rod ends from the steering arms - you'll need a splitter and work out if it's the rack or uprights where the friction is. I found that the friction on mine was in the track rod ends - new but totally solid.
  12. blueyedbiker
    You'll need to pull out the yellow plastic pin locator from the plug then poke a fine flat jeweller's screwdriver over the pin you wish to remove and lift up the small wedge that locks it in to place while gently pulling on the wire. It's a bit of a knack.
  13. blueyedbiker
    Andy Sharp near Chesterfield made a lovely high capacity ali one for me for about £200 (I think), PM if you'd like me to put you in touch. John.
  14. blueyedbiker
    A bit of a hike but mine's available, South Bucks, if you don't get anything nearer.
  15. blueyedbiker
    Re the braided hoses, CC's little joke is that 77201L is for the right side and 77201R is for the left but I found that neither would fit properly anyway so I had bespoke ones made at the local hose supplier (the excellent Spectrum Hose, High Wycombe, south Bucks.) and they turned out to be cheaper into the bargain. Mine's standard de dion with standard calipers (aaaagh), on the subject of which might it be worth considering upgrading - anything is better, if nothing else you'd take a ton off the unsprung weight? Hi spec do a conversion but you'd need to be creative with the handbrake mechanism as it needs a pull from the vehicle centre rather than fore/aft. Good luck!
  16. blueyedbiker
    Mmmm, mine failed first time, the steering stiffness was caused by the track rod ends, brand new but rock solid. I replaced them, made sure that the column tube was a smooth fit in the bushes and gave it a shot of silicone spray. I set the castor to max and it sailed through the retest then I gave it a full chassis set up.
  17. blueyedbiker
    Hi Anthony, can't help you on that one 'm'fraid, I've only used econoseal, no experience of the others.
  18. blueyedbiker
    The upgrade kit works OK but I found that the disc ran too close to the track rod end dust cover for comfort so I added an extra spacer washer (extra wide track, wow!), the down side being that you'll need a thinner split pin with the castellated nut being slightly further outboard.
  19. blueyedbiker
    If you get stuck try Bearing Traders Ltd, 01494 441301, give them the size, they stock most sizes or bung the old one in the post to me and I'll take it up there. Didn't charge me for the tiny one to fix my leaky bug sprayer. (It was the sprayer that was leaky, not a sprayer for leaky bugs you understand).
  20. blueyedbiker
    Try Bearing Traders Ltd, they have depots in Slough, High Wycombe and Uxbridge plus on line sales. Good luck.
  21. blueyedbiker
    Mine's a 2000 chassis - imperial, and the screws are M5 but as mentioned earlier check to make sure any new ones don't bottom out and crack the screen, could be a costly mistake!
  22. blueyedbiker
    Is the boot floor made of plywood, in 2 halves and with a "top hat" cross section aluminium centre support bar or have you got the full aluminium job? Either way you'll need to be creative to get a neat job, you may need to fabricate brackets to hang from the rear mudguard bolts to support the rear corners and if you have access to a Riv-nut tool it makes for a much more flexible and stronger job than self tappers as if you're able to remove the front half of the floor you can get easy access to the hand brake adjuster. A picture of the floor and inside the boot area would be handy. John.
  23. blueyedbiker
    I was once told by a wily old race engineer that the oil feed in the bottom of the tank to the HP pump should be central, ie the tapping should have a tube which brings the pick up into the centre of the tank. Under sustained, high, lateral or longitudinal G forces (Gerrards at Mallory) the oil level in the tank will be more or less vertical, therefore as long as the tank is more than half full when all the galleries are full you should always have the oil pick up covered. It worked in my old K powered Mallock.
  24. blueyedbiker
    I'm not familiar with a VX block but I had a similar problem years ago with alternator bracket on a X Flow, it would even ping the heads off cap heads. It was eventually traced to the boss cast into the block which had a small piece missing. The solution was to grind the boss face flat again and pack out with washers, there was still enough thread left inside the boss for more than adequate torque on the set crew. No problems after that.
  25. blueyedbiker
    Be VERY VERY careful using an Easyout, if it should break off it's more than likely good bye block. If possible a drill out plus Helicoil is a better solution but again, be careful drilling in case the drill snaps. Good luck!
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