blueyedbiker

Next up is the underside of the dashboard where the radius is less than the required 19mm, current chassis’ have a correct radius here but mine doesn't. The obvious solution here would be to have a padded trim piece made up to match the tunnel top but other solutions are most welcome. Ta, yet again.

Third fail point is a lack of tether on the fuel cap. Fuel injected models come with a tether but not carburetted ones. There is a handy nut on the inside of the cap on which to attach the tether but attachment inside the filler neck will be rather more bothersome and of course I'll need a suitable tether (not quite at the end of mine just yet). Ta, again.

The second problematic fail point is the exhaust, first off it’s too noisy by 1.5pndb and secondly, the clamp and springs need a cover. As far a noise is concerned something along the lines of a “decibel slayer” would do the trick but a potential problem would be the mounting of it as all external fixings have to be 3mm radius. If anyone has any experience of such things or alternatives I’d appreciate it. As for the cover for the springs and clamps I may be able to have made up a cover that clamps to the pipe between the collector and silencer with flanges that cover the offending bits. Ta.

Afternoon all, Well no surprises, it failed its IVA but what do you expect when you put a X Flow and a pile of old bits that had been hanging around the garage for years into a 2000 chassis? It is, in reality a remarkably positive result in that the majority of the installation is fine and most of the twenty odd fail points are relatively easy to fix - wiring faults, the odd cover here or cap there. There are however a few points that will need some creative solutions and to make it easier to keep track I’ll do them as separate posts, so, beginning with the trickiest; The wheels are secured to the hubs with studs and tapered nuts as per usual. The requirement however, is that the wheels should be “self-centring” on the hubs and the wheel/hub interface should be “load bearing”, this being achieved by the holes in the wheel centres locating over raised lips round the centres of the hubs, the studs and nuts being there just to hold it all together. There are indeed raised lips on the hubs - uprated front, standard de dion rear but these are somewhat smaller in outside diameter than the holes in the wheels (Minilites) and interestingly enough they are smaller diameter on the front hubs than the rear hubs so clearly CCC are not using these lips for wheel centring otherwise they’d need different wheels front and back. Initial contact with CCC reveals that this has not come to light previously so they’re doing an internal investigation. The holes in the Minilites are around 55mm on the outside face of the wheel but rather larger on the inside face so my initial thoughts on a solution would be to have “rings” fabricated to be a snug fit on the hub lips and an outside diameter to match the hole diameter on the inside of the wheel. I’d need to run it past the DVSA technical people beforehand but any other solutions will be welcome. The inference of course is that this applies to all 7’s going through an IVA so if you have one booked already I suggest you get in touch with CCC pronto. My test was done at the Gillingham centre where they’re no strangers to 7’s.

Just had an email reply from DVSA regarding test changes; "There are no imminent changes that will affect you on 02nd May, any changes are expected to be later in the year." My enquiry was regarding a pre '75 Flow installation. 2 weeks to go and still soooo much to do.

Again there's loads of M12 threaded knobs out there; http://www.rosscastors.co.uk/50mm-ball-knob-with-an-m12-metal-moulded-thread.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw75HWBRAwEiwAdzefxJcX-3UkEJh1UkkHfu9eXefI7j8mLl8ZeMRER3-TjhiQc8ca3embBRoCs5oQAvD_BwE

If it's 3/8 UNC it's identical to M10 and there's millions of M10 threaded knobs out there for not much money.

Thanks for the responses. It had to be a special order from CCC as oddly enough, they don't stock 'covers for a type 9/X Flow combination any more. I'll use a couple of self tappers as suggested in case the left elbow lets go over the hump on the Cadwell mountain. I suppose another option would be velcro. Happy Easter!

Morning all. I'm down to the last knockings (hopefully) of this build epic, IVA applied for last week. It's a bog standard 2000 de dion chassis and I have the uber sexy, full length leather tunnel cover to fit, it drops nicely into place (about the only thing that has thus far), so how does one secure it there as there doesn't appear to be any fixing points? The tunnel is open both ends (obviously) with top plates up to the front of the gear lever and behind the hand brake which leaves about 18" open, any experiences of water ingress on those rainy days? Ta.

Thanks for the tip John, as you've probably worked out I speak from experience.

A few observations having just made up the econoseal plugs for the front lights, the indicator repeaters came with bullet connectors so needed changing to econoseal to fit the plug. I believe the ones supplied by CCC come with the pin already fitted. The pins come attached to a strip and need to be snipped off where the pin joins the strip The silicone seals are colour coded for different cable thicknesses - green=thin, brown=medium, yellow=thick The seal should be slipped over the cable before you trim to expose the core The thin crimping "wings" at the back (away from the pin end) are for the silicone seal, the wider "wings are for the cable core Only about 3mm of cable core needs to be exposed otherwise it interferes with the pin/plug body locating mechanism I bought a Paron JX-1601 crimper kit for about £20, a lot cheaper than the econoseal crimper but works OK Hold the core in place, place it into the 4.0 anvil, wings down but with the thin "seal wings" clear and crimp. it's a tight fit and will trash the 2 very small lugs on the sides but no matter. Insert the silicone seal/wings, wings down into the 6.0 anvil and crimp, this should produce a neat job. To assemble the plug; MAKE SURE THE CABLE ROUTING IS CORRECT AS THE PLUGS ARE DIFFICULT TO TAKE APART! Push the pins into the black body of the plug making sure you're using the correct hole. (obviously) They will only click into place if they are the correct way round so you might need to rotate 180 degrees. They lock into place by a small wedge dropping into the void in front of the core crimp which is why you only need a small amount of core. If the pins ar not properly clicked into place the yellow plug insert will not fit correctly. Push in the yellow insert, it might need a bit of poking with a screwdriver to get the pins to line up and as it locks into place the 2 horizontal blades at the back slide into the gaps between the locking wedges and lock them all in place.Good luck!

Got to use it at last and they've spotted the mistake so the dots are correct on mine. Thanks for the tips, having made up the plugs I'll start a new thread with a few observations. John.

Eventually bought one that Grim Reaper recommended, arrived this morning but not tried it yet, looks as though it'll do the job. If it doesn't work I'm sure my little boy can find a use for it on his Elise (blown, 250+).

Bought from Redline so could be old stock I guess.

Good tip, I did think that the inside edge would be a dirt trap and that water flying of the tyre was in with a good chance of dislodging the strip.

Ta da! Repeater with moulded silicone back plate, the bit sticking up on the RHS is just a reflection.

Thanks Ian, I only have a very rudimentary crimper so I've just put out an APB to see if there's anyone local I can earwig one from.

Afternoon (again) all, I need to make off the end of the indicator repeater green wire into an econoseal pin to fit the 6 way plug and it requires a special crimping tool so, anyone out in the South Bucks area have one I might borrow for a morning? Ta VM.

Next problem is making off the end of the green wire into an econoseal pin, special crimping tool required.

Afternoon Jonathan, I'd be quite happy for the edge strip to be permanent as the wings are black and it looks pretty neat but another problem could be that the silicone has adhered very nicely to the fibreglass so whatever glue I use will have to stick to that as well. Not great weather to be in the garage either and fortunately I haven't booked the IVA so no immediate deadlines. Re your earlier reply I'll try to upload a picture of the indicator repeater mould. John.

Afternoon all, Having just attempted to use silicone sealer to stick the rubber edge strip round the cycle wings for IVA purposes I discover that apart from making a horrible mess it hasn't adhered to the rubber in the slightest so any suggestions as to a suitable adhesive? Ta.

Good result from the moulded spacers, nice neat fit with no gaps or edges. Squidged a load of black silicone into a couple of sheets of cling film (previously wiped with WD40 as a release agent) and having marked up the position on the side of the mudguard pressed it in place with a flat piece of plastic and held it there with a clamp 'til it went off. With the rubber backplate as a template, used a scalpel to cut it to shape and cut the holes out and job done. Only needed to remove one of the studs in the light assembly as there was enough thread inside the mudguard to take the washer and nut and replaced the other stud with a 4BA screw with shakeproof washers to pick up the tag on the black wire.

That's odd, nowt's come through, I'll resend.

I am considering drilling a small weep hole down the bottom.

Brilliant, thanks Ian.