blueyedbiker

Thanks for that Tony. Now here's a thing, I borrowed Hon. Ed's dipstick and it's too wide to fit my tube (ooooh matron), however, whilst explaining my plight to my eldest son (blown Elise, 200+ hp) he says "I can help you Dad". It turns out that my yellow plastic job is a "standard" dipstick ie. not a standard X flow one and that they always break off at the bottom. It also turns out that a standard Elise dipstick is perfect so I now have 2 genuine Lotus parts on the car, the other is an Elise air filter housing which I've modified into a fuel filler tube cover. The oil level, having added the 3.25L, was just on the H of the old stick and the Elise stick has an extra inch or so below. Cheers, John.

Hi Tony, thanks for your comments, I've just checked the tube and I think it would take the coiled wire type so the only issue is the length. I don't know for certain about these things but I'd have thought that the crucial aspect is the relationship between the oil level, the strainer/oil pick up pipe and crank shaft at B.D.C. The shape will determine how much the level will drop when the galleries are full and the capacity along with the baffles will be critical in response to G forces which is why I came to the conclusion that I did. Steve at Vulcan recommends 3.25 litres, does this tie up with your experiences? Should you decide to part with a JW sump please could I be first in the queue?

It's either broken or been cut off at the H mark. Mike Calvert (son's best mate) lives up the road so I can perhaps compare with him, his runs with one of Jim Whitings' trick ali sumps but regardless of sump shape or design the oil level should have a relationship with the bottom of the block. I looked at the Burton ones and the flexible one looks circular in cross section (mine's flat) and it does say not suitable for extended tubes. The joys of running obsolete engines eh?

Here's a question, how long is a X Flow dip stick? Mine's a flat yellow job with all below the High marker missing. The top of the tube is clamped to the last inlet manifold bolt and it's a CCC shortened and baffled tin sump pan. The critical distance I guess is between the oil level and the bottom of the block and with the 3.25 litres of oil (which I'm told is correct for engine and filter) the level just touches the bottom of the dip stick. Ta.

Thanks for all the tips, job done and as I write no leaks. A lot of stuff became apparent during the job in that with the sandwich plate cut in half the sump comes off with just a wiggle to clear the strainer/pick up and chassis diagonals and as you're working under the car, sealer of some description is required to stick the cork gaskets to the bottom of the block and in the corners where the cork gasket slips under the ends of the banana seals. Another tip that came from Roger King way back was to snug the bolts up then let the sealer cure overnight before the final tightening. 1/4" oversize washers between the spring washer and sump flange help to spread the load and reduce the distortion. I found a potential reason for the leak in that the bottom half of the sandwich plate was a really tight fit under the rear main bearing seal so with all the vibrations and expansions was probably distorting the banana seal. Yet another application of the half moon file sorted that one out. All 23 IVA fail points now ticked off, retest Monday week.

Ta. It's the rear seal on mine, I think I'll use silicone where the cork links with the rubber and maybe a thin smear between the rubber and the pan. Mine has the protective plate too. J.

Evening all, So what are the top tips then for re fitting a X Flow sump with regards to; Silicone sealer/hylomar Oversize washers under the 18 screws/spring washers. Engine back recently from the builder with not many miles and a leak from the rubber seal under the rear MB. The holes in the pan were a bit distorted but flattened off with calibrated use of the Birmingham screwdriver. It'd be nice to do this just the once. Ta.

Make that you can't free them off. I went back to them the morning after and they were tighter than ever, new ones arrived from CCC this morning and they're fine, steering almost one finger now. Ta for all the hints and tips, retest booked for the 23rd.

Derrrr, just got the joke, laminova. Very good, very good indeed.

I've answered my own question in that yes, you can free them off. Had to clamp them in the vice and put a tube over the taper to get them moving so now I've given them about 20,000 miles by hand and they're reasonably free. LF's esteemed editor came up with the taper splitter. Castor angles already at max and good tip re tyre pressures, ta.

Interesting. What are the advantages of matched temps?

First bit sounds more like my cup of tea.

...as it were. A recent IVA fail point was "residual stiffness" in the steering, ie it wouldn't self centre at 10mph. I've traced it to the track rod ends which are both rock solid (and new) so the questions are; are they all like that from new, can they be loosened up, or do I need replacements? I've rigged up a handle on the steering wheel boss so I can sit in the thing and quickly take it lock to lock to try and ease them off without success. Should they need to be removed what's the recommended tool for breaking the taper, Ed China's hammer trick is difficult to apply due the disc proximity. Ta.

OK but WTF's a laminova?

Hi Paul, yup, got your address on the PM, I'll get it off to you next week, need it urgently or will snail mail do? John.

Came across this during a clear out, it's about 17" long and I think it might be from a K series, pay the postage and it's yours if you want it.

Hi Brian, sorry for the delay in responding, sent you a pm. John

Don't think anyone's mentioned it but start with the caliper furthest from the M/cyl (N/S rear) and work towards it. When you're done clean all the dribbles round the bleed nipple with brake cleaner.

I used Speedograph Richfield a while ago to remake a cable for a Caterham instrument and a non standard right angle drive and then recently for a mechanical speedo recalibration, they turned them round in about 10 days and charged £75 for the recalibration. Seem to be decent folk to deal with.

They used to say that too much Harpic sends you clean round the bend.

Mmm, that figures, once they're flush there's no point in taking them in any further. Great, thanks for that. I'm replacing a caliper so when it's on with the pads in place, the handbrake cable gets slipped over the operating lever, brakes pumped so that the pads are in contact with the disc and the cable adjusted, is that correct?

Idiot-ish question, when winding in the pistons (clockwise I understand), do you wind them in until they will go no further, ie, they hit a stop?

Good call, thanks. I have a feeling though that when the IVA is passed (inshallah) I'll remove the tether altogether as I don't really fancy having the cap rattling against the rear panel when I'm filling up.

Thanks Guy, so both sides are right hand thread?

For standard Sierra calipers, any recommendations as to which and where to purchase? Ta.