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blueyedbiker

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Everything posted by blueyedbiker

  1. Thanks Jonathan, they're pretty cheap so I'll probably buy one, any recommendations?
  2. Thanks Jonathan, looks like being a pair of long nose pliers.
  3. Afternoon all, The saga of the failed IVA rumbles on, one of the failures is the handbrake (De dion, standard calipers, tunnel top lever), the N/S caliper isn't pulling its weight. My local mechanic ("technician" in modern parlance) informs me that if the handbrake was pulled on without the hydraulic element in place as mine undoubtedly was, it upsets the piston position and in which case it needs to be "wound back in". He went on to say that it might mean a new caliper. Anyone have any experience of this? Ta.
  4. Been in the garage. When I took off the Aero Cap assembly the solution was obvious. From 2mm ali plate (salvaged from one of the boy's defunct scooters) I made up a ring with an internal drilled lip and it sits behind the rear flange of the filler neck and is held in place by the rubber filler tube. The inner end of the tether (available from Kit Cars Direct) goes through the hole, from inside to out otherwise it fouls, and is secured with the screw clip supplied, the outer end attaches to the nut on the spring mechanism on the cap. Another one bites the dust.....
  5. CCC rubber trim that's used for mudguard edges and chassis holes works OK, the wider edge needs trimming down and then neatly superglued on to the edges of the filter covers. Another one bites the dust.......
  6. Sorted! It's a 2000 chassis, on the back of the switch the RED/BLUE wire to the plug is the +ve supply from the headlamps (dip and full beam) and the RED/ORANGE wire from the plug is the switched supply to the fog lamp. The thin RED/WHITE wire to the tag on the RHS of the fog lamp switch is the +ve supply from the light switch to the light in the fog lamp switch and the thin BLACK wire on the LHS is the earth for the light in the switch so, the thin RED/WHITE wire is now surplus and a feed to the tag on the RHS if the switch is bridged from the RED/ORANGE wire from the plug. It now operates in the correct sense in that the fog lamp only comes on with headlamps and the switch only illuminates when the fog lamp is on. Thanks for all the info. Another one bites the dust........
  7. Evening all, Any suggestions for removing a particularly stubborn lower column bush, I've sliced off the bottom rubber pip and part of my finger in the process but struggling with access to the top rubber pip. Ta.
  8. Thanks for your help, yet again, can I send you a PM?
  9. Thanks Jonathan but they're bang to rights on that one, the key can be removed when the cap is unlocked, like you say it's section on RS16, 03A on the hymn sheet.
  10. Nice set on ebay, just the £1150.
  11. The trumpets are just within the bonnet opening but I think they could still be contacted by the 100mm sphere.
  12. Thanks for the replies chaps, this weeks tasks are visits to the local engineers to investigate bespoke hub centric rings and to the Hayes depot for an opinion. Shame about the wing nuts!
  13. Today's optimist, well you never know, but looking for the old steel, 13" X 51/2" J wheels from a twin cam, maybe series 4. Ta.
  14. Thanks gents I'll give it a go and report back.
  15. I did consider that but I'm thinking that the foam isn't really going to give much protection to the sharp edges of the trumpets. I'm not going to fret overmuch about this one as he pointed it out to me but forgot to add it to the official fail list so what I may do is find some 3/4 round rubber edging and superglue it on.
  16. Finger trouble again. The last problematic fail point relates to the K&N's which poke out of the side of the bonnet, the radius of the end plates is less than the required 3mm so I need a method of rounding the edges off or fitting some sort of cover, so again suggestions please. Ta
  17. Next fail point concerns the fog light. The switch lights up whenever the side lights are on even when the fog light is off. The requirement quite obviously is that the switch only lights up when the fog light is on. There's patently a wiring problem on the car so any suggestions on how to untangle it? Ta.
  18. Heard back from Caterham that this is the first time this has happened. Great. Meanwhile I've been on to the DVSA approvals team for their suggestions.
  19. Funnily enough I was looking at those earlier today. I ordered up the tether from "Kit cars direct" for a whopping £6.77 and over the weekend I'll whip off the filler assembly and see if there's anywhere for a clip. Heard back from CCC re the hubs, IVA fail 1 updated.
  20. The inspector said as long as it was reasonably permanent he be happy
  21. Ta, I'll give it a go.
  22. Thanks for the responses, I'll have a chat with my local trimmer and see if he can make up a padded strip to match the tunnel cover.
  23. ta for the responses. Drilling through the neck is probably the best solution, the difficulty is making a petrol proof seal on the curved inner surface I guess.
  24. Evening all, Been in a wifi deadspot for a few days so not had chance to respond. Jim, thanks for your thoughts, it was done as an "Amateur build" and I did wonder about the zealousness of the inspector but he wasn't sure and brought over another guy for a second opinion, guy#2 thought that there was a CCC part that would fit but CCC parts dept haven't heard of it. The hub centric rings may do the trick but if they're not deep enough they'll fall off the lips which in practice wouldn't be a problem, the potential difficulty would be getting it through the retest. Now I'm back I'll see what CCC can come up with and report back.
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