blueyedbiker
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Everything posted by blueyedbiker
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Afternoon all, any thoughts on potential advantages (or otherwise) of sealing the open ends of the wing stays with mastic to prevent water ingress? Ta.
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Thanks Jim, I've had a trawl through and you may be correct and even if I were to get lucky on the IVA there's always the subsequent MOT's so it's back to wing mounted. I'm currently experimenting with moulding a spacer out of black silicon sealer, trouble is the garage is so cold that it's taking an age to go off. Ian, re the connectors thanks for the offer, it's just 2 pins that I need, is that something you can assist with? Regards, John.
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Thanks Ian, there are indeed, but sadly the repeater feed has a bullet end so it'll be a solder job. John.
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Excellent suggestions, many thanks. I already have the standard Lucas ones so fitting them on the side skin seems to be the obvious way forward especially as it's SVA compliant and saves having all the wiring clamped to the wing stay and wishbones. It might mean the bulbs would last a while longer too.
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Afternoon all. Any hints on the fitting of the indicator repeaters to cycle wings (drilling points on mine are not marked up)? Main issue is fitting a flat plate to a curved surface. Ta.
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And while I'm at it, what's the preferred spec for a type 9 'box? 160bhp X Flow up front.
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Thanks for all the responses, very enlightening. I thought about using the B373 but I've had it on the shelf for about 10 years, does it deteriorate over time even though it's still sealed?
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Evening all, recommendations for diff oil please, standard 3.9 Sierra, not LSD. Ta.
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Mmm, that's a good call, could be the feed for the hazards I suppose.
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Hello Jonathan, thanks for your response, here's the eBay link; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Add-A-Circuit-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATO-ATC-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap/152611082492?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I've put it in the bottom position on the fuse block - "flasher unit, 10A" as it fits reasonably well there and I used another 10A fuse. When I get a mo I'll have prod around with a tester to see if I can shed light (ha) on it.
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Afternoon all, I'm using the above for an electrical supply for the fuel pump and I'm trying to work out if it is polarity conscious or not. Finished up with a headache so far.
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Horrid things, scotchlocks. Just been scratching around for an inertia switch without any instant success, nothing on Merlin or 'Tweeks sites.
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Thanks for the info. No obvious wp wire down there, just the feeds for lights and fuel tank sender. I like the idea of the piggy back fuse tap, I guess that having replaced the fuse with the 'tap the original fuse goes into one socket on the back and a suitable one for the pump in the other socket? Very neat.
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Morning Jonathan, the current fuel pump is a hole in the side of the block - the engine is fresh from Vulcan so it'll be a Facet 40105 solid state pump as supplied by Mick at Redline. No information about current draw on the box or instructions but I wouldn't imagine it'd be that big. They talk about it being wired through an oil pressure switch but I thought I'd put in a toggle switch.
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Should have said, it's a X Flow, bog standard de Dion, 2000 chassis.
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Evening all, any suggestions for a suitable point on the loom to take an electrical supply for a rear mounted Facet fuel pump? Ta.
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Afternoon all, some while ago I inherited a boxful of 7 bits including a Magneti Marelli starter motor type M79 (0.9). It fits the X Flow bellhousing inasmuch that the bolt holes line up so any suggestions as to ascertaining whether it's correct with respect to such things as pinion teeth pitch, pinion throw, direction of rotation etc? It's unused so it'd be nice to save the £200 odd quid on buying new (this one's unused) but if it comes to that, any thoughts on the Edge gear reduction starter from Burton's, Cat no CF003/9H, or alternatives? Also in the box is a used alternator so any suggestions to check if it works or not without access to voltmeters or other test kits? Ta.
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Thanks for all the comments, I'll add another spring to the next consignment.
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I might improve the angle of the spring with a rather more elegant method of attachment to the pedal box. (Elegant/Caterham? An oxymoron I think). Thus far, the most used tool is a file.
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The spring is surprisingly strong, by experiment using a WH Smiths bag and Fran's old scale weights, 2Kg extended the spring by 17mm. As you can see the mechanical advantage is poor with the spring insertion just above the pivot so if nothing else I'll adjust the spring and attach it to the clevis pin. Attachment to the scuttle side of the pedal box is interesting, there are 2 x 1.5mm holes drilled so the spring end must have been straightened, poked through the first hole then bent and poked back through the second hole.
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Having read your CRB article I checked which spring CCC had supplied with the chassis (2000 de dion, I did say it was new-ish) and it's the stronger one so I'll probably stick with that and see how it goes.
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Thanks John, and I think you're right, it is male/female (gender fluid??), the swivel on the end of the braided hose goes on to the female end. Excellent article on CRB's by the way very helpful as I was planning on doing away with the spring on this new (ish) build. Oddly enough, on my previous live axle car there was no pre tension and it ran for thousands of miles without a problem.
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Excellent, thanks Jonathan, completely contrary to what I had expected.
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The Goodridge rear brake hoses (77201R for the left and 77201L for the right, terrific) come with a male/male adaptor and a copper washer. When the adaptor is screwed into the caliper it bottoms out before the washer gets compressed so I'm guessing that the seal is achieved at the bottom of the hole in the caliper?
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Thoughts please on the spring at the top of the clutch pedal which effectively pre loads the cable, ensuring that the release bearing is in permanent contact with the clutch diaphragm, not ideal I'd have thought to have an inaccessible bearing churning away all the time the engine is running.
