Tony C

I'm not too sure you should be touching the throttle pedal during the start. What ECU do you have? The map should have a start setting, which I'm pretty sure you cancel if you open the throttle during cranking. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

2003 K-Series SV. DTHTB's and Emerald ECU. At low rpm, gently advancing the throttle gives an increase in rpm, but at about 1250rpm slight further throttle advance makes the rpm drop about 50 revs before once again increasing. This can be very disconcerting when trickling along slowly in traffic, but not yet considered to be dangerous. I've re-set the throttle pot and have visually checked that the throttle butterfly shaft is showing a constant increase in rotation with throttle pedal movement. I guess I should check it out with the laptop plugged-in the check the TP reading. Any other ideas? BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If you'd care to check the search facility there is a full explanation of the HOT and RUNNING oil level checking method. The info in 7FAQ is misleading. If you check the oil level hot and running and then try to let it cool down to mark the dipstick you'll discover that there won't be an oil level to mark - the length of dipstick in the sump will be completely covered by oil. How hot? Full operating temperature. When driving gently away from cold it takes a minimum of 5 miles to get the oil temperature to stabilise. 20 minutes idling from cold will ensure the oil is fully up to temperature if you don't have an oil temperature gauge - if you do have a gauge, idle it until the oil doesn't get any hotter If you try to check the oil level without the oil fully up to temperature you won't be getting the correct level, which is a waste of time. If you overfill the sump the crank may be stirring-up the oil, causing unwanted and potentially damaging aerated oil. It's your engine - do what you like It's not faffing around - it's engineering BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

It's best to check the level after a blat. Getting the oil fully up to operating temperature from cold takes a good 20 minutes at idle. Checking the level too soon will give a low reading. There isn't a great deal of difference in volume between the top and bottom level on the dipstick, but every little helps and overfilling should be avoided. Long term answer is to get a dry sump

Bounce it up and down a few times. Slacken-off the suspension attachment bolts while adjusting to prevent the rubber bushes skewing your settings

Sounds like you need to do an Airfield day. I found them a great confidence booster. In that, what might seem excessive body roll on the road or an, "Oh my God, I'm going to slide off the road" moment, is no big deal in practice - when you give it some serious welly on the airfield. We've all been vying for the "Bag of grass" award - eh Nic IMHO, it's only after you find your and your cars personal limits that you can start adjusting the bits on the car to improve matters - or not. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Don't go off half-cocked there Bob. Indeed the noise may be the clutch release bearing, but is not necesarily impending failure. It'd be a pity to go to all the trouble of taking the engine out only to find it was still in fine shape. There have been a few CRB problems, sometimes more than one occurance - these are all exhaustively listed on BC, so don't get your hopes-up too high. The CRB is not a rigid assembly and an occasional graunching noise may merely be caused by a temporary misalignment. I suggest you continue to monitor the situation and if it gets much worse and or more frequent, then might be the time for a planned CRB change. I had lots of problems with mine and in the end CC replaced it, but I had to pay for most of the cost. Since replacement I've installed the pre-load spring and (touch wood) it's been OK after a similar additional mileage. It still gives an occasional noise, but a quick pedal press seems to stop the nonsense. Good luck BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If you had the bonnet off and couldn't hear anything - maybe it's something rattling againt the bonnet or maybe the bonnet is loose. An old trick to check for location of strange engine related noises is to use a large/long screwdriver. Press the handle end against your ear and put the blade at various locations on the engine (Not the fan belt ) BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Been there, done that, got the 'T'-shirt

Perhaps the distributor goes around in the other direction 1-4-3-2

Woolies here. Item 38, towards bottom of page. Don't know where you'd get the ally' band from. I fastened mine through the scuttle into the chassis tube across the top of the dash - mine being an SV BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Try here. About fourth posting down - copied from a previous post

S'a'right Myles BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Check oil level with the engine fully up to operating temperature and WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. Myles The 4lt advice is a "Get you started" figure. You'll need to stop the engine when topping-up. As mentioned, a little at a time. Start the engine (Having replaced the filler cap) and check again. Probably 4.5 ltr total, but a bit at a time. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

If it’s any consolation, mine move on the retaining pins too. I think they are made to be able to move as part of the self aligning process. I give mine a smear of copper grease on the BACK of each pad and in the retaining pin slots and the retaining pins, which seems to quieten them down. Only noticeable when the car is moving slowly. Long term solution – wear ear plugs BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

£15 for a new cap They come with the barrel as a set. That'll teach me to put the cap back on. Maybe I'll make-up a captive wire. Just for you Tony: It seems that perfection is achieved when there is nothing left to fall off 😬

I now know what made the strange noise as I was driving along - nothing to do with the drivetrain thankfully. I'd not screwed the cap back on the dry sump tank when checking the oil level 😳 The cap fell from the top of the cam cover where I'd placed it and I guess run over it with the rear offside wheel. On the off-chance I took a walk in the vicinity, but unsurprisingly, no sign of it. Probably "Binged" into the long grass. Have to try and get a new one from Brise. No sign of spillage of oil though 😬 Jammed a plastic blank over the filler - I'm half expecting a dull thud when driving it tomorrow. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I bought a bicycle brake cable from Halfords. That plastic fitting pulls-off the pedal box end and can be reused 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Standard diff' and the bolts are tight. Also no movement from the 'A' frame from pushing and pulling. No obvious slack when turning each drive shaft. The prop shaft/gearbox backlash did seem excessive, but again I have no datum for normal. No noticeable drive line shunt while driving. When driving, there's always been lots of whining noise from the diff. I don't know how much noise normally comes from each item, so I'm a bit lost. I guess letting an experienced 7 mechanic check it out would be the best bet Probably nothing to worry about (Note to self: NEVER drive without ear plugs again) BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

2003 SV de-Dion, 6 speed box, 38,000 miles. I've recently noticed a soft rythmic clunking from the back end as I push it backwards into the garage. Today, less than a mile from home, pootling along warming-up the oil and there was a "Noise" from the drivers side rear. Sounded like a pair of pliers dropping onto the floor, but there was a slight "Feeling" to accompany the noise. Stopped to take a look - nothing lying in the road and the back end looked OK as far as could see from a kneeling position. Gave everything a good shake and rolled it back and fore - nothing. Gently drove to work, expecting anything - should have gone back for the tintop I suppose. Drove gently home tonight without earplugs in and was amazed again at all the clunking, grinding and whizzing noises, that I suppose are standard. Jacked the back end-up tonight and nothing obviously wrong visible. Checked the de-Dion tube carefully - nothing. Selecting a gear to lock the prop shaft and quite a loud backlash clunk from the prop shaft/gearbox when I changed road wheel direction of rotation. Selecting neutral merely gave soft rythmic clunking from either the diff' or driveshafts - can't tell which. I don't know if the noises are normal or something to worry about - any advice? Perhaps a visit to a 7 expert might be best 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 8 Jun 2006 22:58:16

Mine's wired directly to the battery too, but as Steve mentioned, make sure you have an in-line fuse in the wire - small amperage too BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Have a look here for the parts list. There was one in 7FAQ, but it seems to be not available. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I think my mechanical oil pressure tapping is 1/8 NPT and I have mine tapped into the filter housing. The original posting mentions the pressure tapping is not the problem - it's the Mechanical temperature sensor. It's large in diameter and quite long and I doubt very much if it'll fit into the filter housing without seriously obstruction the oil flow. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

The concern with the mechanical oil temp sensor is its increased diameter over that of the electrical version. If the electrical sensor will only JUST fit in the sum plug - there is no hope with the mechanical one. On my dry sump I HAD to fit it in a housing spliced into the scavenge return line. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

And when you eventually get it out, slather the replacement with copper grease so it can be removed easily at the next occasion. I echo nverona, use a 7/32 allen key socket and bias the effort towards pushing the socket towards the bolt while turning. Perhaps ordering a pair of new bolts from CC now would be a good idea and when you tighten them-up, just give them a "nip" - it's not the anchor of the Titanic BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)