Tony C

£5 for the new hose plus £1.09 for a packet of 'O' Rings from Halfords BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I'm not about to blame anybody; I just thought CC might like to know of the occurance BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just dropped it into my local hydraulic repair place and they will fit the end fittings to a new length of braided hose and pressure test it. Don't know the cost yet, but it's hardly likely to be more expensive than a new item from CC. The angled fitting just pulled out of the hose I've given Simon at CC a heads-up, but he won't be at work until Tuesday 19th. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Just checked my flexible fuel hose from solid pipe in the tunnel to the injector rail Ye Gods! Looks as though it's about to let go. I think I'll see if I can get the ends put on a better quality hose. 2003 1.8 K-Series 42,000 miles and 3 1/2 years old. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

with yellow roll bar - two up. About 1530 Sunday, going down the hill from Lower Winchendon to the A41, near Alesbury. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

All I did was anwer the question. My Brooklands are fastened directly to the scuttle and don't need a band. They are still interchangeable with the windscreen in about 20 minutes BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

here. Item 83 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

1745 Northbound on A413 through Whitchurch BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I have Brooklands on my SV and have no problems with airflow. As mentioned, they are infinitely adjustable for rake and can be set to the best position while driving. I thought the gap between the screens and the scuttle would give buffeting, but non apparent. My eye line is above the top of the screen, but apart from the odd flying insect on the top of my head, my goggles don't show evidence of impact. When raining, as long as the car is moving - no problem. Ear plugs are a must because of the smooth airflow past the right ear. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Got my pressure gauge from Demon Tweeks. 0-30psi to give large scale. Round gauge with line and release valve. Foot pump from Halfords BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Water and baking soda (Bicarbonate of Soda) - make sure you wash off thoroughly BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Sorry - now aquired 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Kit arrived from Germany today - so I can now uncross my fingers - now how do I make Brooklands screens from scratch BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

IMHO, there is always going to be a little play between the wheel and the spline due to it being a sliding fit. If there were no play it would not be posible for it to be removed. Mine always seems to have more play than I'd like when stationary, but never notice any backlash while driving. I too use Castrol LM grease on the spline - there's no need to put half the tin on, merely a smidgin applied with an old toothbrush and wipe-off any excess after fitting and removing the wheel BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Radial engines are different from rotary. A rotary engine crankshaft remains stationary and the cylinder bank rotates, so the propeller is attached to the crankcase. These were very efficient at the time, used a total loss lubrication system (Castrol oil, which apparently gave the crew "the runs"), couldn't be throttled so were either going or not and the torque was horrendous. Radial engines have a stationary cylinder bank with a rotating crank. A single row radial only has a single throw crank, to which is attached the master connecting rod. The master rod has a series of holes around its "Big end", to which are attached the "slave" rods for the remaining cylinders. The cylinders fire 1,3, 5, 7,2,4,6 Etc. If there were an even number of cylinders, this every other cylinder firing sequence could no tbe maintained. Two rows of seven cylinders would give a 14 cylinder radial - an even number, as would an 18 cylinder be two rows of 9. There have been 36 cylinder radials - four rows of 9 cylinders BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Ordered mine from a guy in Germany. As the cycle fender/wing kit is no longer in production they don't seem to be available from the normal sources. I have been burning-up the www trying to find one. Tamiya now only make the BDR with clams and the JPE, so the cycle wing kit can only be obtained from someone with one tucked-away in a cupboard. The conversion kit mentioned earlier will enable a BDR clamshell wing kit to be converted to cycle wing. The JPE is an option, but the seats are wrong, as are the wheels. I'd like to modify the kit to match my car as closely as possible - though I can anticipate long hours trying to make the Brooklands from scratch BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Got one - well, ordered and paid for it - fingers crossed. Unfortunately it was the last one he had, but will let me know if he gets any more and I'll post the info here if anybody else is in the market 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Unfortunately - no longer. The Cycle Fender #10202 is no longer in production, as I discovered before placing the "Wanted" post BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Funny you should mention that . Try here Only 60 sets made and I don't know if there are any left, but maybe worth checking-out. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Might have just found one in Germany 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I understand the Cycle Fender Special #10202 is no longer manufactured, so I don't hold-out too much hope. I've found several kits advertised on the Internet, but they are just adverts that have not yet been removed - though I'm still checking one model shop in Holland. Good idea about the ebay search - thanks Wahey. I'm trying to get a kit that is closest to my 7 so I don't have too much trouble converting it BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

The Caterham Super Seven BDR Cycle Fender Special. I can't find one anywhere and thought perhaps somebody might have one sitting in a cupboard somewhere - unmade BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 2 Aug 2006 22:10:26 Edited by - Tony C on 9 Aug 2006 22:07:42

I get 25psi hot and idling and between 50 and 60psi when running. (1.8 K-Series with dry sump) IMHO the exact pressure doesn't matter too much, I keep my eye open for significant variations long term and rely on the big red light to warn of total loss of oil pressure BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

It works OK on mine and when I put it on the scales at Millwood it was just about spot-on BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I've used this, the Peter Charmichael's: "Flat floor without a flat floor" and it works fine. *find a flattish piece of tarmac; *set the spring platforms exactly equal at the front; * support the rear of the car with the de Dion tube on axle stands; * release the handbrake (just in case the cable tension does something odd); * remove driver's side rear wheel and disconnect the anti-roll bar link; * make sure that the two anti-roll bar links are adjusted to the same length, left and right; * now, jack up the front of the car centrally, underneath the cross, placing a one inch wide strip of softwood longitudinally between the jack and the cross to produce a powder coat friendly knife-edge bearing - the front of the car should be able to rock from side to side and cannot now transmit any torque into the chassis; * load up the car with your chosen payload... (driver only/driver and passenger/driver and half passenger); * now raise or lower the spring platform at the driver's side rear corner until the anti-roll bar link is perfectly aligned with the hole in the anti-roll bar - rocking the rear of the car helps to settle the suspension; * re-attach the link, put everything back together, drop the car down and you're done. Using this method, it will be possible to work out the various settings of this single spring platform that conform to several load conditions. You will then be able to switch between optimum settings for driver-only, passenger and driver or any other chosen setting from one adjustment. I recommend marking up the threads on the spring platform so that you can record settings and subsequently replicate them at will. Tip-ex is very good for this sort of marking. All presuming that your chassis isn't twisted... BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)