ELV15

Check the fuel pump relay (if there is one fitted). Mine recently had a similar behavior and it turned out to be the relay not making good contacts with it's housing. You can also check the inertia switch. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Here's what I did: Went to my local auto parts store with the cap in hand. Matched it up to one of the "replacement" versions they had on the shelf. Found one that was cheap ~$5. Then I took that home and took the hacksaw to it. The result was a cap that is plastic, sits about 1/8" above the ali valve cover and just clears the bonnet (I did attach a small piece of stick on foam to the underside of the bonnet to keep it from rattling). It's been fine for 18,000 miles now. I just press down with my palm and twist to loosen/tighten it. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Sorry chaps. Here is a linky without needing a login: shiny No, it's not my exhaust - but it is beeeautiful. 😬 ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Another vote for your local polishing shop. Take a look here to see how nice it can turn out: here ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Simon, Yes, it seems so! It is easier and faster to take the measurements from your locations too! ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Simon and Dave, Many thanks for your help with this. I've fettled with it quite a bit. Here is what I now have with my weight (approx) in rocks in the drivers seat and 1/4 tank petrol: 127mm (chassis rail just behind the front wishbones) 134mm (chassis rail where side skin goes from round to square) 147mm (chassis rail just in front of the rear arch) 70mm (under sump) These numbers are consistent on the left and right sides of the car (within 2mm). So by Simons method, I have 147-134=13mm and by Dave's method, I have 147-127=20mm It's all good! I'm happy that I have gained some more clearance under the sump and that the car now seems to be setup ok be either of your two methods. Thank you! 😶‍🌫️ Now to see how it handles on the road! 😬 ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Hi Simon, From your measurement points, I'm getting these numbers (all with swimbo in the drivers seat): front 123mm (where the body crease changes from round to square) rear 148mm (just in front of the rear arch) I also took measurements from the standard places and am getting these: front 153mm (behind the lower front wishbone) rear 151mm (just in front of the rear A-arm mount) So now I'm quite confused as by Simons method, I've got plenty of rake, but by the factory method, I've got negative 2mm! *confused* PS: I have 55mm under my sump. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Thanks all, I meant to say that it drops to 150mm, from an unladen measurement of ~155mm. So not too much of a fat bastrad. 7 wonders, Yes - I have been using the Mrs as ballast. 😳 Simon, I have a 2.0L Duratec. I'll try your method. Exactly where do the lower chassis tubes change from round to square? I think my biggest issue is that the rear platforms are at the top of their adjustment sleeve. I'm not sure if I've got something wrong with them or if there is some other way to get enough lift at the rear. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

I just fitted a widetrack kit and am now trying to get my suspension setup. FWIW, I'm running 13" wheels with CR500's and M0 dampers with the progressive springs. I understand that a good starting point is with the front wishbones set parallel to the ground (ie: level). I've done this and with me in the car it squats to ~150mm. I had to wind the platforms up quite a bit to get to this point. Probably about 1/2 of their adjustment. This does not leave much play in the spring. Is this normal? I also understand that there should be a 10 to 15 mm rake between the front and the rear (measured to the bottom chassis rail - just in front of the A-arm mount). The rear should be higher. However, mine is not!! I don't know how I'm going to get the rear high enough. They are already at the top of their adjusters and I've only got ~140mm with me in the car! ☹️ All of these measurements were only with 1/4 tank of petrol too! ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

This has been done with a seat base from Oxted Trimming: here PS: did someone mention a CANOE? ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

I have a 2003 DeDion and I need to replace the fuel pump. Do I need to remove the tank from the car or can I do it with the tank in place? FWIW, It's the standard ali tank, not a bag tank. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here Edited by - elv15 on 5 Aug 2008 07:37:03

Nick, I've uploaded a few pics here. Sorry it's a pain to take the seats out, so I don't have any pictures from the inside. It also looks like I put the bolt in from the top on one side and from the bottom on the other. The latter may be easier as the bolt head is thinner than the nut. Anyway I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Cheers, Tom ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Yes. I have had this same issue. The box is necessary with a de-deion chassis so that there is room for the A-arm mounting points. I ended up drilling a hole in the top corner of the box and fitting a nut underneath. You have to remove the nut and bolt for the A-arm then you can drill the hole for the belt from above. Then you have to test-fit the bolt and nut for the crotch strap. You will find that the nut can be kept from turning by the side of the box, if you have the hole in the right place (you may have to use a flat blade screwdriver wedged between the box and the nut if it turns). There is not enough room to get a socket on it, IIRC. Then you have to mark the length of the bolt and trim it to fit, so that the A-arm bolt and nut can be refitted. Note, you will also have to shorten the aluminum sleeve to fit between the top of the box and the bottom of the chassis mounting tab - minus the room for the belt washers/bracket. I'll try to upload a picture for you tomorrow if this is not clear. Kind regards, Tom ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

FYI, I saw this on the Hartley site and thought it might be a less expensive upgrade than switching to an R500 pump: http://www.h1v8.com/albums/album_image/1821906/1355660.htm ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here

Tony, Thanks. I'm going to play around with some beefer windsocks to see if I can cut the wind noise. I'll let you know if this works! AFAIK, the issue I'm having is because the Starcom setup is "open mike". The mic transmits all the time. This is great for full duplex conversations, but if you have a senstive mic (like the Sensorcom unit), you are subject to transmitting a lot of wind noise! You can control the VOX level, but this only changes the point where the music is muted and/or where the radio transmits. From what I gather, the Autocom unit actually has two mic's on on the outside of the mic and one on on the inside. The system compensates for the wind noise by subtracting the difference. It would be really nice to have a setting for the mic sensitivity - which I believe the Starcom digital has. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here