Tony C

Trouble might be that the diameter of the mechanical oil temp probe will be too big to go into a modified sump drain plug - no practical solution I can think of - sorry. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Mine hasn't got an NRV and it seems to work OK BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Where in South Bucks? I have an engine crane and put my engine gearbox in, so could stand there and tut-tut with some authority 😬 Drop me an e-mail and maybe I could help. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Fairly easy to do yourself Rob. If you have a 'C' spanner for the collars on the dampers. Simulate the average loading of your car - driver only, driver and pax or driver and half pax if you only carry a passenger occasionally. Put the car on a reasonably flat and horizontal surface. Set the front platforms so the rear lower wishbone arms are horzontal - spirit level is OK. Jack the rear and put axle stands under the de-dion. Weighing 90 kg, I have the rear drivers side platform at the highest adjustment and adjust the passenger side rear, but if you are lighter you may need to adjust the passenger platform as well to get the front slightly (15mm) lower than the rear. Garry at Freestyle said that the 15mm rake is only a starting point and doesn't need to be strictly adhered to. Remove the passenger side anti-roll bar drop link. Make sure the length of the drop link on both sides are the same. Use a thin strip (about 1" wide) of wood between the front crucifix and the trolley jack and just lift the front wheels off the ground. One will probably be lower than the other. Adjust the passenger side platform up or down so that the drop link will slide easily into the fitting. As you do this the front wheels will level off so that both front wheels become the same height above the ground. Tighten anything you loosened, lower it to the floor and Robert is your mothers brother. I ended-up with about 75mm sump clearance, but the lower wishbone is a smidgin car-high rather than exactly horizontal in order to achieve the sump clearance desired. This is Peter Carmichael's famous Flat Floor without a flat floor - and is good enough for most uses IMHO BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 8 May 2006 21:35:02

As a general rule, not a good idea to mix different oils. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

March 03 LF has a complete write-up with photo's, as does Mick Smith's website. Did you do a search one wonders BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Me too. Though running from the kitchen to the garage with a previously boiling pot of water dropped the temp quite a bit. In the end I plugged the kettle into a garage outlet and put the probe in the actually boiling water BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Same car going the other way - same road, about 1700 Thursday. I managed a wave this time as I wasn't too busy doing that drivin' sh*t 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Black at about 0730 Thursday. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Sorry - Maplin P/N W22R 3 Watt Wirewound Resistor, 22 ohm. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

For future reference I've uploaded a brake light bracket drawing to my website here. Included is the Maplin Part Numbers for the 52mm Red LED Cluster and the essential 22 ohm resistor to prevent 14v from the alternator blowing the LED's BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 24 Apr 2006 21:14:51

I've just done a drawing for Nic Day of a bracket to mount the Maplin light to the roll bar diagonal. If anyone would like a copy, please e-mail me at tcummings@oxfordaviation.net and I'll attach you one BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Nic YHM BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Nic, I'll make a drawing of my bracket and e-mail it to you - maybe you could forward it to those interested. I haven't had a chance to take any photo's yet - too busy blatting 😬 The drawing will probably be more informative than a photo anyway BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Orange 😬

The only potential downside to the mechanical oil temp sensor is its size. Make sure you have somewhere suitable to stick it I bought a housing which fits into the scavenge return line from the dry sump. I don't know where would be suitable with a wet sump.

I've got a mechanical oil temperature gauge from Think and indeed it works on the principal described. The tube from sensor to gauge is encased in a spiral wound outer. I coiled the slight excess length. The bourdon tube is inside the instrument body. Tested it in boiling water for accuracy and it works fine 😬

Check the universal joint down near the steering rack. It has a splined fitting, which if loose would give the symptoms described IMHO. There is an upper and lower clamp bolt.

I don't think it's possible to use the words "Cheap" and "Upgrade" in the same sentence 😬

Didn't recognise you Nic - you went by me so fast. I turned around, but you'd gone The entry to the "Route" is left onto the yellow road just before Waddesdon - Upper Winchendon to Long Crendon, where you take a right onto the B4011. I'd just come back from there. Lot's of big bikes to duel with. I've just fitted Freestyle springs/dampers - what a difference 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

I got my stick-on from Fancyplates. I just asked for a 3/4 size one and it fits and looks OK on my SV 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Northbound out of Aylesbury about 1300 Sun. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Above the bottom rail. Have you squirted the inside with Waxoyl? Not too much otherwise it'll be seeping-out forever Does the build manual now mention NOT to fit the rear dampers until the roll over bar is attached? If you put the dampers on first you'll have to remove them again to get a bolt into the roll over bar fitting. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 14 Apr 2006 11:42:12

The filler is on the side of the box for a good reason - so that it "can't" be overfilled - an anti-murphy device. Even if filling from the top it shouldn't be filled higher than the side filler. The gears only require splash lubrication, not immersion BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

89 man-hours Wow, can I come and see you walk on water 😬 James, please don't be adversely influenced by other peoples hours for build. I'm sure Dazzled is correct, but it is much more important to do the job to the best of your ability than to try and set some kind of record. I'm an ex-aircraft engineer and took 3 weeks off work and spent about 250-300 man hours. I'm sure it can be done in less, but I dry assembled most items and only when I was sure it was all OK, disassembled, greased, copper greased and/or loctited and assembled it. If in doubt, use more copper grease - on the electrical connections too. That way, in a couple of years time, when you want to remove an item it won't be rusted in place and need a blow torch to release it. Underseal and/or Waxoyle the exposed bare ali too. I know it adds weight, but the state of some 7's after a few years exposure to the elements is alarming. As mentioned, it's far more important to take all the time you need and enjoy the experience - have fun and don't hesitate to ask for help/advice - we're all willing to help. Welcome to the mad house BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)