Smiffy69
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Everything posted by Smiffy69
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I picked you up at the junction of M27 and followed you from there through Swanwick before I turned off to Warsash - Nice slides !! 😬
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😬 looked nice !! My R300 has been stage 2'd so it's now 220 BHP bags of torgue and with the 6 Speed box extremely quick ......... and like you I love the popping and banging 😬 😬 Enjoy !
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Looked chilly !!
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Quoting John Vine: Thanks, Mankee . Do you happen to know what the diameter range is? Also, do you know what the trumpet internal diameter of the CC RBs is? (The car in question is a long way away at the moment.) JV Hi John - Just measured mine and the internal dia of my trumpets are 55mm ( I now await all the obvious responses to that one 😬)
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Quoting tbird: IRO 300A +/- 100A depending on engine size, compression etc Tim Ahh as I suspected it's quite high. The Anderson connectors highlighted are only rated at 50A so probably not "man" enough for jumping then.
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Quoting mwoodham: if you want a connector that can handle a jump-start, I've seen Anderson connectors fitted to race cars Does anyone on BC know the cranking current ? my ammeter can't handle that level of current so I have no idea what it would be.
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Quoting Mankee: If your kittens have now outgrown their litter trays, use them as oil drip trays! The litter trays, not the kittens. but kittens can be useful to mop up oil spills or use with soapy water to clean the 7 😬
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I also have the same set up as in the first picture but instead of the valve shown I have one of these here (How much !! ) This came as part of the standard build and has to my knowledge never leaked and no noticable pressure build up. I do have an aero filler cap.
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So how do you balance them? Is it simple with the right tools or does it need some level of expertise?
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I've had two of these fail on me in the last three years all have failed where the solid pipe meets the matrix. Not a major failure just a hairline fracture which weeped. I realised after the second one that due to the plenum / air filter placement and the way I had routed the pipes I was putting strain on this joint. It’s a very tight fit on a 2.0 Duratec R300 even in an SV! I contemplated many ways of "Modifying" the heater unit but the problem went away when I changed the plenum out for roller barrels and different air filter. With no plenum / Air filter to get in the way there was no longer any strain on the pipework and bizarrely enough no more failures. I appreciate this does not fix your problem but may help to remove a potential cause once leaked fixed.
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Thanks for the info - very good thread that. I think I'll look at the Raceline DS !
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I am thinking about what "winter project" I should do on the car and I am tending towards converting to a dry sump on a Duratec. Has anyone on BC done this and are there any particular pitfalls that should be avoided? Also any pictures of a conversion would be very helpful. Thanks in advance 😬
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If one is to remove the catalytic converter and replace with a straight through exhaust collector what do you do with the lamda sensor?
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About 10am just after M3 aero and white helmet.......... Nice day for it 😬
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Just to add another example ...... I had the same problem on mine during the (short / non existant) summer- long blat and left it sitting in the sun whilst I had a lovely pub lunch. On restart the engine would cut / stall but after a few seconds settled down and ran fine. It does definitely seem to indicate some sort of temperature issue? BTW mine's an R300 Duratec with the stage 2 mod i.e. roller barrels and trumpet intake etc so I assume its a similar config to Samuel.
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Just for a bit of context a new one is only £35 from CC. However I have no idea how much it would cost to get it brazed Might also be worth checking that your pipework is not putting undue strain on the joints which subsequently causes the leaks.
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If it helps I have these on mine and cycle wings are fine - note I have an SV with a metric chassis. Edited by - Smiffy69 on 8 Oct 2012 18:14:03
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Any one know of a decent workshop manual for a Quaife LSD Diff? Great website Mankee - very informative
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Good call Mort, Drained some oil out to see what happened and not surprisingly the oil level dropped so there is something in the pressure theory and not just guff.
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Glad to see this is a common issues but mine seems to be the reverse of andy21's If I leave it standing overnight / couple of days then check I just get a small amount of oil on the bottom of the stick. If then cleaned and reinserted it will show I have overfilled it. When I changed the oil I put in the required 5 Litres in so there should be enough in it but maybe not quite enough. Originally I came to the conclusion that the cold reading is the right one and the somehow the subsequent dips are picking up oil from the tube? Is this right as I am now worried I am over filling ?
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I think the Key here is to be able to remove them easily if you need to. I had my steering geometry set up yesterday and the laser measuring kit had to be hung over the tyre. Due to the very small clearance on mine it meant the cycle wings needed to be removed. Luckily for me mine are bolted on so it was easy to do. Big heads and cable ties would also be OK but a completely Sikaflexed (other brands are available) would have been a right royal pain.
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Thats what I thought but I have a R300 which seems to have some sort of composite caliper (possibly - happy to be corrected) ...and therefore it insulated everything - I did check the earthing of the brake hoses but all continuity stopped at the caliper ?! Running a separate earth solved it
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Have I understood this right? ..... even though I purchased a new se7en from CC I was probably sold a 2nd hand LSD diff even though it might have been refurbished? How do I tell ?