Smiffy69

Quoting Grubbster: Always good to get stuck into the upgrades from the outset Slightly confused as to why you needed to cut off the plug on the rear lights - I just drilled the hole in the carbon block a bit bigger so that the plug could go through (and saved 0.01g in carbon dust ). I dismantled the plug when I did mine so I could remove the old rubber block and thread the wires through the CF new block but on refelction it would have been easier to cut the old block off and make a bigger hole A couple of other things I did whilst doing this mod was to finish off the joint from the CF block to the wheel arch with the piping used for the edging of the stone protector. IMHO it looks more finished. I also fitted a large blanking grommet where the wiring passes throught the wheel arch to stop grot collecting inside the CF block. Not done for weight saving (a diet for me will have the biggest impact in that space) but they loook nice 😬 Edited by - Smiffy69 on 18 Jun 2014 19:50:25

Thanks for the top tips and places to go and look. Had the wheels off this evening and the probelm was with the lug on the pad not sitting in the indent position at the 6 oclock position. This was causing the uneven pressure on the pad. All sorted now with the use of the angle grinder spanner to twist the the piston into position.... a quick bleed as it's a doddle with an ezeebleed kit. A quick blat has removed all suspect rust 😬 Once again many thanks POBC

Thanks I'll check as suggested

It's a R300 Duratec upgraded to 225 BHP..... I don't need any extra HP (I never thought I would say that ) but as the bypass looks neater I was wondering on hassle factor at MOT time. I know its easy enough to swap except for the springs !! they are a bugger

I am confused which to be honest is not difficult. I have a R300 (2010) and was wondering just how much brake bias goes to the rear brakes as from what I can see by rust patterns on the disks that after 6K miles the rear pads do not yet wear evenly across the whole of the braking area. The fronts are fine. There is fluid flow to all callipers after recent ezee bleed There are no obvious leaks. Therefore on the standard master cylinder is it very heavily front biased to the point of hardly using the rears? or am I not driving hard enough and therefore not braking hard enough ? Very puzzled

I have some questions on removing the cat (not the one the Mrs and the kids have .... but removing that would be good as well ) 1) What is the performance improvement by replacing the cat with a straight through pipe? 2) How doe this effect the exhaust emissions and therefore do you need to put the Cat back on for MOT time? 3) I guess the Lambda probe fits into the straight through pipe but do you need to do any ECU mapping/ changes ? I am thinking about doing this but weighing up hassle / cost vs benefit.

Slight thread hijack...... I have some questions on removing the cat (not the one the Mrs and the kids have .... but removing that would be good as well 😳) 1) What is the performance improvement by replacing the cat with a straight through pipe? 2) How doe this effect the exhaust emissions and therefore do you need to put the Cat back on for MOT time? 3) I guess the Lambda probe fits into the straight through pipe but do you need to do any ECU mapping/ changes ? I am thinking about doing this but weighing up hassle / cost vs benefit.

Quite an easy one to fix just need to undo the switch ( mounted on the gearbox RHS) and fit a spacer washer or two until it only comes on when you are in reverse. Had the same problem on mine and that's how I fixed it

also with a number 19 on the bonnet. I was next to you at the traffic light by Sainsbury's

When I first had mine I thought the same .... Can't be bothered with all the hassle of a harness......... Until after a few miles of driving feeling massively exposed. I then fitted the 4 point harness and removed the inertia reels. Now feel safer and less likely to fly out if the car in the event of an incident It's your call though 😬

Ahh very clever and so obvious in hind sight

Quoting Cookie Monster: Si SVC Apologies but please excuse my ignorance ... Who are SVC ?

Hmmm ... Interesting .... All in places that are not really visible and in my experience all places that will get ...er .. Knocked when in use. It is annoying to have chips on your pride and joy but trust me you will get more and finally give up worrying about it. The only way to avoid dinks and scratches is not use it....... And what's the point of that

nice to meet you this afternoon - hope you had a good Blat

We were the 7 heading in the other direction hello again

Just saw you heading out of Hook Park ..... Nice hat !! 😬 I was in the grey BMW Edited by - smiffy69 on 2 May 2014 13:29:39

I have a spare black one you can have if that's any help?

Whilst talking to Steve G at this years Wight Blat we both discovered that we have a similar problem. When driving the 7 with a bit of urgency there is a tendency for the hydraulic fluid to leak out of the Clutch reservoir cap and knacker the paint work underneath. Apparently TADTS was the advice and the fix to this is a Racing cap ....... I've looked at few websites and cannot find anything that looks like a suitable replacement. Can anyone advise where these can be sourced or is there another solution to this ?

Quoting Jonathan Kay: Interesting discusion about tools. Please could someone who has used both please advise amateurs like me whether the wind-back tool makes the job easier than the peg spanner. Thanks Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 13 Apr 2014 21:53:38 I just used a big screw driver to twist it back in... did the job (Didn't think about the angle grinder spanner )

Quoting Cookie Monster: Make sure you get the right ones! I just replaced mine with same as existing only to find out that for the last 6 years they had been wrong. No wonder the car never seemed properly happy! Google NGKpartfinder.co.uk I tried this but they don't list the Duratec for the Seven model in this list? The ones fitted at the moment are the original ones from Ford numbered TR6AP-13 so assumed that a NGK swap would be OK I'll have a look on ebay as suggested Thanks for the advice

After doing a bit of google research I found the price of TR6AP-13 spark plugs to vary by quite a bit (from £4.50 up £7.20) per Plug. Which make do POBC use and where do they get them (CC online store is 🙆🏻 )

Been doing a bit of Googling this morning and think this is only applicable in the US as all the hits are about US Federal rulings and can't find anything referencing the UK. So panic over I think

Here's a question for you all .... I bought some of the ATE super blue racing brake fluid so I could flush the brakes and know I had got rid of the old fluid. Good plan thinks I until I read the front of the can and it says "not for use in motor vehicles used on public highways, streets or roads. Due to non conforming colour" Now that's the first I have ever heard of the colour of your brake fluid causing a problem. Also what's the probability of it being a real issue ? Anyone ever fallen foul of wrong colour brake fluid during an MOT?

There is a blue version of DOT4 fluid which looks like it could make life easy here Anyone used this ? any good ?

Is there a way of colouring the new fluid to know that it has come through. Otherwise how do you know new fluid has come through ?