Smiffy69

Thanks everyone - helpful feedback

My lovely wife got me a set of these for Christmas and whilst there is lots in the archives on how to wire them in none of the links work to look at the pictures of the install of the light unit. A popular choice seems to be just to the left of the steering wheel as this has them in your peripheral vision. Others have mounted it on the supplied bracket behind the steering wheel. As I am still undecided I wondered if any one has photos / thoughts where to mount them ( originally wrote "where to stick them" but I suspect that would not be the answer I was looking for ) cheers Ian

ahh .... just got an error message so you cant just post a subject field but i thought i was replying to an OP ? confused

Aero'd up and heading West on the M3 by Basingstoke today @ 16:40

Proxy spot by SWMBO

Near Petersfield around 7:30 ish

Thanks Guys, I have checked it and it is pointing the right way.

I use both on mine - Spa on the Aero and Race Tech on the windscreen (Stanchion mounted). I find the Spa ones more flexible in terms of setting up to where I want my field of view. The race tech ones I have seem designed more for being mounted on a single seater with the driver equidistant from each . I now have them just about set up how I want them after some fiddling. Both are convex and offer excellent fields of vision and are very stable in terms of lack of vibrations - very clear

Following on from the MTL or not to MTL thread it got me investigating the possible source of my slight oil "weep" so I stuck the car on the stand and went exploring. On the top of the box, in the middle, is a black plate which is held in place with 4 small bolts .... it looks like it could be some form of breather (not easy to see once it's in the car and I can't find a decent picture of one on the web to check !) Is it a breather? and if it is would it be usual to expect a bit of seepage from this after a spirited period of driving? If it is a breather what stops water / crud etc from getting into the gearbox ? linky added to picture to show the bit I mean Sorry for all the questions which to many will be very obvious 😶‍🌫️ Edited by - smiffy69 on 28 Aug 2014 15:48:47 Edited by - smiffy69 on 28 Aug 2014 16:55:28

Phew indeed ... MTL it is then! especially as I have only just changed to it.

Quoting grenpayne: I'm pretty sure when I had the box out for a service at R&R last winter they said to run MTL in it. I might give Phil a call this morning to confirm. That would be very useful feedback JK - Based on Grenpayne's feedback I might just do the ABA test ...... even if its only to satisfy my own curiousity. It's the destruction of the gearbox that is the worry though ......

Like others on here I went for Redline MTL as it was the "oil of choice" ... I have just returned from a 1600 mile trip through Spain and France which was trouble free. GIven this is the first time I have run MTL in my 6 Speed here are my observations. After a couple of days of long mileage (approx 200/day) I would have a small amount of oil on the bottom of the gear box casing which is weeping from the oil seal where the prop shaft is fitted. When moving the gear stick left to right in neautral it would be slow to centre when cold but fine when warmed up. The gearbox is much quieter as a result of running MTL (idle noises when in neautral are now almost non-existent) Gear changes were all easy and with no problems but not noticably different to previous standard GB Oil. Until I read this thread I wasn't concerned about it but now I am thinking maybe I should change back to a 75W/90 GL4 based oil. Is the difference between MTL and 75W/90 GL4 really enough to wreck a gearbox ? If anyone else has some experiences to share it would be good to know as this is now messing with my head 😳 ☹️

Hi Tim & Lou.... How Random meeting another Seven in the queue for the ferry 😬 Have a great trip through Spain and France and maybe we will see you crossing the Pyrenees 😬 😬

and Brooklands ..... N7 PTO? Basingstoke this morninag aroudn 10:15.. you were follow me in my Grey BMW towards the M3

Don't panic as it's a really easy fix Jack up the car and stick it on axle stands ( health and safety never has a day off) Remove wheel In the centre of the hub you will see a big castle nut with a split pin through it Remove split pin and tighten nut until play in bearing had gone but hub assembly should still move freely and easily and as said above is only about a 1/12th of a turn Ensure that you can see the hole for the split pin to go back in Put in pin Stick wheel back on Check again Jobs a good un It should only take 10 mins Good luck

if you have a keyless system then you need to put the fob in the little well at the top of the transmission tunnel under the scuttle - the antenna is there. It may take a wiggle to get it to register but when is does the light goes out and you will here the fuel pump fire up (assuming you have the fuel inertia connected and activated) Therefore process is Press start button Wiggle fob till light goes out / fuel pump primes Press start again to crank or as JK suggests break with man law and read the handbook !! Edited by - Smiffy69 on 19 Jul 2014 10:41:38

with black rear wheel arches at approx 09:00

Orange & a Green with Yellow stripe plus a load of other classic cars. I guess you just got off the ferry coming back from Le Mans?

Ahh is that the same one SWMBO saw broken down ☹️

Well every day is a school day It turns out that 6L is about the right amount to read correctly on the dipstick Thanks for the top tips

Really .... I did think the handbook looked a bit wrong 5L in and only just touching the bottom of the dipstick so I'll add a bit more

Thanks Dave it's good to know where the oil level should be. I just removed the whole pipe and engine fitting and it's there or there abouts with the line of engine to sump (but difficult to tell) and if anything might be fraction high. So I guess that few more mm on the dip stick = a half litre or so of oil in the sump and hence why I may have slightly over filled. I think so trials (hopefully no errors) to tweak are required.

I am mid waythrough an oil change and before I started draining the Oil out I dipped the level and it read 3/4 full between the marks. It is now drained and I have over 5L of oil which has drained out. The manual says (if it can be believed) suggests that to fill it only needs 4.5L. (Its worth remembering that the accuracy of the dipstick is only as accurate as the length of pipe that connects the mounting bracket to the sump but given that was already on the engine when I built the car I have assumed up until now that it is the correct length) So as a project manager once told me to "challenge assumptions" what is the right answer? a) refill with 4.5L (as per the manual) and adjust the pipe length so that it reads "Full" on the dip stick. b) fill until it reads full on the dip stick but will be nearer 5.5L by that time. c) split the difference and stick 5L in and adjust the reading accordingly. d) something else. My main concern is that I am either over or under filling

Thanks all ..... Ordered a couple and some oil from Opie ( even used the club discount 😬)

Can any one tell me what the part number / type of oil filter is on the 2.0l Duratec? The CC website has the short one (currently fitted) but it is for a Vauxhall. Is it the same for the Duratec? I also object to CC exorbitant shipping costs so if its standard then I can grab one from Halfrauds ? Many thanks