Garry7
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Everything posted by Garry7
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Sevens and Classics did my service in August, thoroughly recommended
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Thanks Elie, these are great for installing the front end - some challenging angles!
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Ball ended - long allen key is how I did it. Torque wrench worked well on that.
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Shouldn't worry - the hood (especially the full hood which encloses the boot area within the car) amlifies any noise. With the boot cover off to fit the hood the diff noise is added to the rest of the din. Ear plugs / defenders or a half hood is the way forward
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The sensors are notoriously fragile, my 4th in 3 years failed on the second day of the Italian Tour, leaving me with sat nav for speedo - great in the many tunnels we encountered! It will cost you around £65 for the priviledge too :(((
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You missed M580MPM, it would have been between GA11OOT and SP61ORT :-))
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I had a similar experience with my duratec last year (when it was just 2 years old), turned out to be a water pump leak, very difficult to spot as it never left a puddle anywhere. Only spotted by the keen eyes of Richard Young - now retired
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Not sure if this helps but: My 2012 Roadsport 175 has a tear drop shaped fob that needs to be waved in proximity to the wire loop surrounding the ignition barrel - there is a clear click followed by the fuel pump buzzing once it has been recognised. The old CC factory courtesy car (2012 R300) had a similar fob that had to be placed in a tray on top of the centre console in front of the gear knob - similiar process once recognised.
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You need a deep 19mm socket and another to remove / refit the nut and bolt at the apex. Also a couple of new plastic? washers either side of the apex before rebolting into place.
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As Martin above, lever must be pointing down. ideally box on inside strap, for bodywork protection, but also easier to tighten properly.
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Hi Simon, That should be it. Mines more than the recommended 2mm away from the cogs having been moved out gradually until it worked. Garry
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The real pain is that a new / spare costs over £60!! CC made me buy a new one send the old (1 month old) part back before they'd refund me.
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I had the same issue, caused by a short in the speedo sensor head, cable was totally fine - try disconnecting the black multiplug (zip tied to a chassis diagonal behind the seat back bulkhead panel) for the speedo cable and changing the fuse again. Good luck, Garry
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Taking it easy in lane one as I hurried home. Had you just had the long blat back from LeMans too?
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Hi Richard, Received my lovely new grille - looks fabulous Cheers Garry
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Sikaflex and two ties on each fastener, still holding strong after 3 yrs and 14k miles.
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Seeking the wisdom from POBC. Having gathered all of the necessary parts I need t fit them to my car (2012 Roadsport SV). Ideally want to be able take it off for normal use. Looks like bosses are in the rear chassis rail so is it just a case of removing the number plate and drilling through, then bolting / wiring? Then the bit I'm most concerned about, fitting the wheel holding bolt, sleeve assembly. All guidance, experience gratefully received - my build manual simply states that the carrier will have been fitted at the factory if specified! Thanks in advance Garry
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The issue was plain washers where they shouldn't be I seem to remember, been looking for my annotated notes from my build, no luck just yet. Definitely too many washers at the front too in my manual. Oh and they sent me S3 front brake lines for an SV.
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Hi, looking for one wheel to use as a spare, with or without tyre. Thanks Garry
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Jonathan, it's a CC Workshop mod. I can send it over later if you like, have it on PDF. it basically adds an earth at the rear of the car before the sensor plug. My continually flickering speedo has not messed about since the mod. Martin, move the sensor gradually away from the toothed wheel - mine is at least 2mm - failed to work at first like yours, gradually moved it further out until it started working.
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Or use the relevant adhesives listed above and fit "big head" fixings to the wings and zip tie to the stays. Easier to remove and refit as necessary.
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Do you have an earth lead from the engine to the engine mount? - if so check the tightness , if you have a second earth to the bulkhead by the battery, check that too. Also, try starting by jump starting it from a tin top. You have plenty of fuel by my experience. good luck
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And one in Kent
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Yes, best put them in boiling water for a bit, apply lube to the bar, put on thick gloves and PUUUSH. They do go on............................................................good luck.
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I built mine around the same time as Pugwash, similarly no issues with the nozzle / flap - insert and twist works every time. Must be an age thing.
