Fishy Dave

Doh, I was after a pair of these. Third in line here, ready to transfer money! Edited by - Fishy Dave on 10 May 2013 09:04:53

I have done the same as Tom last year with good results.

That's a 3.6 (mine is a 3.9 and is revving much higher at 70mph). Your wheel/tyre combo makes a difference to this too of course. Wheels in same direction could be a ZF (what mine do).

John, Yes, yours is an S3, but an imperial chassis rather than metric.

For a possible dabble in the Curborough sprint in class 2 I need a 1600 Supersport ECU to suit my EU2 car. I have an SS ECU, however it is designed to run the 1400 with different flywheel so I can't use it now. My car has never run with an immobiliser so not fussed either way if I have one now. Cheers, Dave Edited by - Fishy Dave on 28 Apr 2013 21:38:48

My Seven is being treated to a new rear skin at the Seven Workshop in a fortnights time so am taking the opportunity to replace the rear wings as both are a little stone chipped and star crazed. I am after a good condition passenger side rear arch in red. I actually have two for the drivers side, so can offer a swap if that's of interest to anyone? Thanks, David

I just changed my weeping Caterham triple pass for a Radtec. No detectable difference as yet, got the club discount on the phone, plus the recommendation to change the bobbins for new ones in case the old rubber has gone brittle.

You need two seperate sets of wheel IMO. One set with grippy race tyres with ZZR/R888/V70 and the other with more road orientated rubber such as AO21R or A539.

If it's the standard type with the yellow end then yes, I have one. Feel free to drop me an e-mail.

Doh! Sorry

Hi Charles, what profile are these please?

No problem Gary You have a pic on its way Bruce

Thanks Mark, have sent Mankee a couple of photos, will let you know if he doesn't go for them. Hi Gary, best to consider the head as a bare casting, although I have included the valves if anyone wants them. I am selling the hydraulic lifters further down in the advert, happy to consider a price on both.

Sorry Nick, just beaten to it, yes, they were the standard CC 13/14" with ridge. Mankee, would you mind sending me a blatmail so I have your e-mail address again, happy to send a pic, either that or your mobile no. and will send you an MMS.

After a bit of upgraditis I have a few bits for sale as follows - Pair of unpainted Caterham Carbon Fibre front wings, used but in good condition. Previously mounted using Sikaflex so no drill holes except for the necessary cut outs for the indicators. I was intending to fit them to my car but decided to fit standard red wings instead (didn’t think unpainted carbon nose and wings looked quite right on my car). New from Caterham these are £228 each = £456 £110 + postage PROVISIONALLY SOLD TO PETER High port K head, hardness tested by Dave Andrews in December 2012, all checks out fine. Removed from my old 1400 engine as I have used the solid lifters and cams in my current 1600 engine. Originally from a 1400 engine, would make a good spare head or basis for higher powered head with porting. The head covered around 30k miles and has had no head gasket issues in my ownership (6 years), but has had a skim once in the past. £70 to be collected EU3 Cam cover and plastic cover both in a tidy condition £15 + postage 4 x 1600 standard pistons and rods, low mileage, covered around 17k miles, pistons still have their rings fitted. Ideal if you want to upgrade your 1400 to a 1600. £60 + postage 16x K series hydraulic lifters, brand new in 2010, covered around 4k miles in my 1600 engine (replaced with solid lifters), very good condition. New from Caterham these are £19.20 x 16 = £307! £30 + postage 16 x standard K series valve springs and seats, again from low mileage (17k) 1600 engine Free to collect, donation to NTL welcome Standard 1400 36-2 flywheel, good condition, I removed it in December to be swapped for an R500 flywheel. £10 collected Dipstick(complete and unbroken) and tube £5 + postage 1400 bottom end, maybe useful to you for the pistons, rods or crank? Covered around 30k miles. Free to collect, donation to NTL welcome Pair of Vinyl half doors with press studs fitted, home made modification to fit side impact bar on drivers side and not the tidiest (although adequate for my needs), as such these aren’t for a polishers car! Maybe suit sprint or race car? £10 + postage Pair of used ‘race’ lowered front wings stays. I bought a brand new set from Caterham and fitted them along with new front wings last weekend. Thinking I had a set of standard front wing stays, I took before and after photos only to find they are the same !!!! So, am selling my used, slightly tatty and rusty lowered front wing stays, drilled for wings. With work or blasting I have no doubt these can look perfect again as they are straight and undamaged. New from Caterham these are £56 each = £112. I am asking £35 +postage PROVISIONALLY SOLD TO MANKEE Please can I ask that all offers are made by posting here out of fairness to all. You are welcome to blat mail me or call me on my mobile to ask questions 07718 368173. Cheers, Dave Edited by - Fishy Dave on 6 Apr 2013 16:09:31 Edited by - Fishy Dave on 7 Apr 2013 15:04:25

I have experienced slight leaks the last two times I changed my fuel filter and had to tighten them far more than I expected. Not to the point of warping any fittings though thankfully.

Maybe small trailer arches? here

Would a 2005 car be metric? Just wondering if it would be different to yours Paul?

They may be, providing the 1400 ran with hydraulic lifters and is of the correct era (EU2 or EU3?).

Sounds great, any pics or video? Would make a good feature for low flying

Would you mind sending me a copy too out of interest. I too have a purple pumped dry sump.

Half hood and bailing out equipment judging by the forecast We will aim to be there to lend a hand on the Saturday mate

Take the wheel off and chop off the nut and thread showing through the stay?

I too had the same symptoms as you Jeremy and GJT, now cured permanantly by the relay feed mod. It was mentioned above that a starter should work as wired, but that assumes the starter motor gets the current it requires. The old relay and crispy wiring leading to the starter motor often prevents a reliable voltage getting to the starter motor, giving you the symptoms described. The starter relay mod is a cheap one and can't do you any harm to try before you start buying a starter motor or battery.