SteveG

Good idea with the phone, why didn't I think of that! I'll take a look when I'm back at the weekend.

Hopefully a simple request - I have a dodgy connection into the fusebox that causes the electrics to cut out (it's a white wire going into the power socket or adjacent fuse, although that's probably not relevant). The car is a R400D. I'd like to tighten the connection up (hopefully its not a broken wire) but can't get my head down there to see how to do that without removing the fuse box - is it possible to tighten a wire connection up while in situ? Does anyone have a photo of a fusebox showing how the wires are held in place so I can try doing it by feel? Second question is, failing doing it in place I might have to remove the box - I assume that the two bolts on the engine side of the bulkhead connect through to nuts behind/in (?) the fusebox - do you simply remove those to pull out the fusebox? I tried loosening them but they just turn with no effect, I assume they have non-captive nuts on the other side but they seem to be out of sight/reach. Thanks Steve

Having sadly cracked my (wet) sump on a pointy bit of Wales I am trying to source a replacement for my R400D. I wondered if anyone out there, perhaps someone who has upgraded to a dry sump, has one lying around that they are willing to sell? Thanks Steve

No problem - the trailer is now sold, pending payment, to the next in line - thanks Hanno. I'll amend the topic as soon as I can figure out how to do that Steve

And in answer to questions about the hitch lock, it's a simple plate with a padlock, pic added here Steve

In answer to a couple of enquiries the width of the bed is 1705mm lip to lip. I have heard that SV's don't fit minno max trailers but feel free to confirm that. My car is a standard body R400 (wide track suspension) that fits with an inch or so to spare each side. Steve

Brian James Minno Max in good condition with wooden centre boards, stowable ramps and under floor storage. Lockable storage box (I can also throw in a new 20l metal jerry can if required), hitch lock, very good set of tyres including new spare and comes with a full set of tie down straps. Lights, electrics, brakes all fully functioning. Slightly scuffed floor, a little rust on the jockey wheel post, but nothing that affects its use:- see photos. It’s been stored in a garage since I’ve had it (and a barn before that) – it fits in a single garage and is very easy to tow. I find I no longer use it much since I’ve upgraded to a 7 with roof and heater – luxury! I don’t know what year it is, does anyone know how to find out? Haslemere, Surrey. £1100. Photos here: Minno Max Trailer pics Regards Steve

Half hood still available, brand new and still in packaging, to fit a standard roll bar. Steve

Have sent email ... Steve

Rollcage now sold, thanks Chris. Still looking for a home for the half-hood - S3 non-fia, brand new and good quality from Oxted. Has the (I think better) bolt on rather than popper side straps. Steve

Having bought a new 7 I have a few bits and pieces left over that are no longer required from the old one that are looking for a new home. Caged roll cage (s3/metric), sound but a little tatty, still with MSA sticker plus a side impact bar which has some rust pitting (see pics) - [sOLD] Hood (s3/metric), ok condition - £30 Brand new Vinyl Half Hood from Oxted Trimming (s3/non-FIA roll bar fitting). - £100 (+p&p) Front anti roll bar narrow track - orange - free if you're passing The half hood can be posted, the others are collectable from Haslemere, Surrey (or possibly Milton Keynes). If dropbox can share pictures then hopefully they should be here Steve Edited by - SteveG on 30 Apr 2013 14:04:46

As I thought it won't run again this morning unaided, same symptom, starts and dies. The voltages across the terminals (on the new battery - I did check I hadn't cocked up and put the old one back on!) are as follows: Alarm on/Ign Off - 12.48 Alarm off - still 12.48 Ign On - drops to 12.25 for a second then stabilises at 12.38 Cranking - drops to 9.97 then up above 11 when it fires but then it dies and the immobiliser light comes on suggesting a voltage problem is causing it to arm, as Charles suggested. Jumping it on 2 batteries starts it. Voltage on running is 14.37 The Banner is new from Tayna and came fully topped up. It had a sticker saying "Remove plugs" plural but there was only one red plug to remove - black one on other end does not come out and looking at the old one that looks exactly the same, with one hole so I think that's fine. S.

Thanks for the comments. Took it for a blat (despite sleet!) to make sure its fully charged. It restarted fine while it was warm (at least one of us was ) so I'm going to leave it overnight and try again cold in the morning and check the voltages. S.

OK, a quick WTF update. The car will start with a jump to a second battery - I hadn't tried jumping it earlier because I assumed the new battery was good. So either my new banner is a duff one, or given Titaniums post, has anyone else had problems with a Brise + Banner. Does this combination have an issue? Steve

Can anyone help with a new problem that's cropped up - my car (2007 1.6 k-series, graduate spec) starts up but dies after a few seconds (and, related or not I don't know, the immobiliser light then comes back on). Tried this several times, always same result. Last week I had a new starter motor (a brise) fitted to fix the k click problem which meant it didn't used to start when hot, but prior to that it always started when cold. I've fitted a new banner battery today which has a full charge. I've tried resetting the immobiliser (assuming that 5 presses achieves this, although nothing happens when I do that) and can get it to flash fast when I switch it on, then settle down then switch off. When turning the ignition on I can hear the pump priming. I have 1/4 tank fuel. Its not the new starter, that fires up just fine, it just won't stay running more than a couple of seconds. I've had a quick look around the earth connection etc and they seem sound, and tried separately earthing the battery with a jump lead just in case it was that. Is it that fuel gets through and then stops - if so what would cause that - could it be a fault with the immobiliser? Anything else before I get back to DPR on Monday? Steve