old captain slow

As Steve says - The 7 misfire club. I've been trying to track mine down too. Changed the TP and going to try a new Lambda tomorrow if I can get the old one out. It's an EU2 1600KSS with verniers. Tends to f*rt when you accelerate tentatively. Foot to the floor is fine. C7 CDW

Partco in Crawley have a universal 4 wire in stock - I guess that will do the job won't it? C7 CDW

Thanks Ric - pretty sure it's the wrong type. C7 CDW

Before I waste my time on the phone or in the "waiting for death" queue at the parts counter, do you know if Halfords stock Lambda sensors for K engines? If not where in a hurry. Ta much in advance. C7 CDW Edited by - David W on 27 Apr 2007 11:40:20

1.6K SS, 6 speed 11 years old now and C7 CDW

Don't get it on your skin as it's really horrible stuff. C7 CDW

Go for it! You won't regret it. Oily - doesn't it give a bit more torque across the useful rev range too? C7 CDW

They seem fine on the road and they are great on the track. They don't seem to squeal significantly although others have reported that this happens with the Pagids. C7 CDW

I think the only time I've had proper brake fade was when the fluid was way past it's sell by date. I only changed to race spec pads cos the normal ones and also Green Stuff was burning out with track use. C7 CDW

I've ended up with RS15s on the front and (I think) 1155s on the back. Seems very good, but I note that both sets of pads are advertised as not approved for road use. They don't seem to have any issues on the road to be honest, and the car gets through the MOT ok so I guess they are ok. (I thought I had 1145s on the back but that doesn't seem to be a valid type number so I guess they must be 1155s and I'm having a memory problem.) C7 CDW

I can do you a 1400K SS head including valves but missing the inlet cam. 😬 C7 CDW

Put one on my 1600K SS and just did up the nuts and connected the wires and Bob's your uncle. C7 CDW

I've just replaced the throttle pot on my 1600K and that seems to have fixed the problem I was having with rough running and lack of go. I re-set the MEMs after fitting the new pot ie ignition on plus 5 full strokes of the accelerator. I guess that malarky is telling the MEMs the throttle pot min/max values for it's map. Is that the case? If so is it necessary to re-set the MEMs every time the good ole red battery key is removed? Just a thought. C7 CDW

Excuse me! I think you'll find it's me that kills most threads around here. C7 CDW

I did a three tankful comparison a while back with 3 tanks (about 200l) of Total diesel versus 3 tankfulls of BP ultimate diesel just to see if it did what BP claim ie better running a improved MPG to the extent that the ultimate works out about the same price per mile as ordinary diesel. The car is a Defender that does around 29 mpg driving really gently on bog standard diesel. On the ultimate it did about 32 mpg driving really gently. At the time the price difference was more than off-set by the improved mileage. I may have a crack at the Tesco additive next. C7 CDW

Just picking up on the varnish - sticky point. I had a sticky tappet for ages. Collective wisdom on here was it was probably down to turning off the engine too quick after it had been on track and heat soak from the head was carbonisinfg the oil around the tappets. I now let it idle for a bit when I get back to the paddock and there must be something in it because the ticking on the "sticky" tappet has gradually disappeared over time. C7 CDW

Just bought a new throttle pot. What a rip-off some of the Rover spares prices are getting to be. £65. 😔 C7 CDW

The Cat has a 1600 SS EU2 and just lately it's been running oddly with a mixture of symptoms. Symptom 1 - tendancy to run on 2 cylinders as if running very rich at low revs when pulling away from rest. Symptom 2 - reluctant to rev ie needs more throttle to get it going but firing on all four cylinders smoothly. Symptom 3 - on giving it sudden beans at the "beans point" of around 4000 rpm it gives an audible cough then picks up. I think it's probably electrical because every once in a while it goes like it has always gone if you see what I mean. First port of call wil be the throttle pot, but any other items to add to the shopping list apart from check all the connections. I would have thought if the Lambda sensor had gone up the shoot it would give dire results at all revs. Plugs look ok. C7 CDW

There was some chat on the same subject here. I' think it's presonal preference in the end but I've ended up setting both our 1600K SSs lights to bracket the start of the sweet spot on the torque curve at 4250 rpm and 7100 rpm as the max power point. Seems fine. C7 CDW

Yup - great day. We were either on the way to, or coming back from Sissinghurst. Going was good - very little traffic. Going back was not so good with heavy traffic and a few cars crawling along. C7 CDW

I wish you wouldn't put up these post, Angus. They ALWAYS give me a massive itch in the wallet. C7 CDW

This is all subjective but .... Well we have 2 x 7s both 1.6K SS and both producing about 150 hp. One has the 6 speed box and the other has the 5 speed type 9 box. The six speeder keeps the engine right on the boil because the top 5 ratios are all stacked close together. The first gear is quite tall (over 50mph possible in bottom) then the rest are all stacked. It's pretty busy though in the cruise and quite tiring if forced to drive on motorways for any length of time. The speedo is miles out but I think from memory it's around 4500 at 70 mph on 13" wheels with 185/60 profile tyres. The 5 speeder has a pretty short first gear that I think is too low to be of much use. 2nd 3rd and 4th are the handiest making the car pretty much a 3 speeder if you see what I mean. The engine is much more relaxed in the cruise ie 5th. Performance wise it's not quite as straight forward as you might think. Our 5 speed is actually the quicker of the 2 cars but it's pretty much stripped down and has no windscreen which makes a big difference when accelerating around 100+. There is not much in it though. The 5 speed seems to have an edge when the straights ask for another gear on the 6-speed near the end of the straight, but the 5-seed doesn't need to change up. For preference I like the 6-speed best of the two because it is really slick to use and makes the car sound the biz at the same time. But as far as performance goes I think there's actually not much to choose between them. I drove our 5-speed back from Caterham this evening where it had been having TLC on it's front suspension after an ARMCO kiss at Croix last week. I thought the ratios made for very relaxed driving in normal traffic. Edited to add that if Winky is reading this I got a very satisfying blast of flame out of the exhaust on overrun coming down the Caterham by-pass - thought you ought to know that. C7 CDW Edited by - David W on 16 Mar 2007 20:03:07

Lift it by the A-frame bush at the back of the car. C7 CDW

We ditched the foam in our 7s with no apparent ill efects except for one observation. We got fatigue cracking in the baffle plate on one car that may have been the result of vibration that had hitherto been damped by the foam that the baffle plate is meant to hold in place. Haven't checked to see if it's happened again. C7 CDW

If you take the speed out, I expect it will be marked up +/- and some other symbol for pulse. The tacho is so marked. (that's assuming it's the Caterham dial gauges of course) C7 CDW