old captain slow

Ta. C7 CDW

Wher's the best place to by it? What do you use to de-grease and neutralise the rust as mentioned on the POR15 US website? Ta. C7 CDW

Seems he got the answer in stereo. Happy New Year Martin and Richard. C7 CDW

If you take the top hose off you can wangle the belt on over the top of the Apollo, then under the bottom. Draw a sketch of the arrangement and you see it's possible theoretically without removing any hoses, but in practice you need to win a bit of space. 😬 I've just tie-wrapped mine in place using a bit of roll-bar padding to stop the Apollo scuffing. Makes it real easy to remove as long as you keep spare tie wraps. C7 CDW

Check out Angus & Tessa helpful web site here. As Mav says the hoses should go behind the alternator and through the alternator belt but it's a pig of a job to get them aligned properly. I ended up cutting a redundant boss off the crankcase casting to win a bit more clearance. Oil wise I can't see there is any problem with your arrangement, but I would be a bit concerned that you would take out the hoses etc if you had an off into the gravel or over a kerb. By the way, William detroyed his 1400K at Croix when he was running without an Apollo. C7 CDW

I use the universal jack-to-car interface that has served me well for years. It's a bit of 3"x3/4" timber about 2ft long. 😬 Put it under the "X" tubes and bridging the side chassis struts to jack. Put it under the sump length ways for the engine. C7 CDW

Malcolm, It looks cool so what other incentive do you need. Oh! If asked why you did it, the stock answer is it's a safety improvement. C7 CDW

😬 There is a point when trying to get the engine started that the angle grinder starts to get to be a really attractive option. I was in the same but reversed place last year having swapped a 1400K for a 1600K with Emerald ECU, but retained the loom. It took me ages to twig that the injectors needed re-wiring for the 1600. Don't change the wiring Simon. C7 CDW

Yes I wasn't refering to the 1400 loom with the 1800. I meant the std 1800 EU2 set up. C7 CDW

Racing Shoe is correct. The 1800 fires injectors in pairs. IIRC one injector of a pair fires against a closed inlet valve. C7 CDW

We will see! 😬 C7 CDW

Paulyb you will need the strut in March if you are going to keep up with me in your SLOW old 1900K at Croix. 😬 C7 CDW

I use the plank technique too, but put the axle stands under the side tubes just behind where the nose cone connects. A couple of bits of rag over the stands protects the paint. C7 CDW

ALex - it may be the itsy bitsy ball in the nipple is corroded to the nipple body. You can sometimes free then with a little careful poking with a pin. C7 CDW

I think sorting out the oil is a must. Apollo would be the minimum and is essential for track days or you will bin the engine quick time. 4:1 exhaust gives noticeably more torque on the 1.6SS (assuming you have the short primary exhaust) and is also cheapish. The 4:2:1 is a waste of money on a 1.6KSS in my opinion. Verniers will also improve matters significantly unless you are really lucky and the bog standard pulleys are already good (most unlikely). The 52mm throttle body also adds a noticeable bit of extra oomph. All these are really cheap mods and should get you above the 140hp mark - maybe 145 hp, as well. If I was spending notes on my car I would take it to somewhere like Freestyle and get the suspension and set-up sorted. Makes a HUGE difference in places where you can use the performance ie on track. My son has a 1600KSS that's well sorted and has a 5 speed box. It holds it's own and even crowds some R500s on the bendy bits. (Of course they can out drag him on the straights but he reels them back in on the bends). You may need to consider uprating the brakes too, but I would do the other things first. Bog standard road pads will be no-good on track either. They will burn out if you are getting beans out of the car. The 5-speed can also be re-ratioed if you want for a few hundred quid. Lots of people on here have done it to good effect. My personal view is that there is not much difference between a 5-speed and a 6-speed in the 1.6SS and the expense of buying the latter is not money well spent. Do the cheap stuff before you lash out on huge upgrades or changing the car. Edited to add - and a LSD diff will make a huge difference too. C7 CDW Edited by - David W on 12 Dec 2006 12:44:24

Seriously I do notice a drop off in performance after I've been driving a lot on the road and (don't laugh) it's actually just getting used to not pressing the accelerator more than a gnats whisker. Feels as though the engine is reluctant to rev, but it's actually just not pressing hard enough with the right foot. C7 CDW

Forgot to take the handbrake off? 😬 C7 CDW

I'm pretty sure William still has his old cloth seats. Would 7 seats fit the canoe? Oh and YHM! C7 CDW

It's quite an art I think. From karting days even the shape of the return on the bell mouth made a significant difference. Also the degree of polish on the air tract. Highly polished leading to poorer air flow. Dull polish better. As far as I recall something to do with breaking laminar flow. Good luck. 😬 C7 CDW

I find the 5/50 better for track use. My car has no oil cooler and the OP is maintained better with the higher temp spec oil. However, it was probably perfectly ok with the 5/40. C7 CDW

Would it be worth giving Dave Walker a call at Emerald? He must have come across most problems with K engines. C7 CDW

😬 Made an otherwise grim morning enjoyable. C7 CDW

Nah! He's been to two track days with me and only managed about a dozen laps total with the need to bleed the system multiple times. I think the head gasket has a pinhole leak that's getting worse cos the header cap didn't hiss before on tick over. C7 CDW

Blown Head gasket. You must just be brave and face up to it. 😬 C7 CDW

Someone will probably say you shouldn't do this but I put a thin smear of gasket goo on the contact surface of the gasket and lo there was no leak (well from that area anyway 😬). C7 CDW