DJ.

I am happy to be corrected on this, but I don't think that is any of the standard Caterham roll over bars. The sides are angled towards each other a lot and the rear struts look thicker than usual too. Duncan

OK, I've run the car with the belt cover off and it's more of a whining noise. I used the stethoscope trick using a piece of wood pushed against parts of the engine and the noise was a lot louder from the bolt securing the timing belt tensioner. I have a bad feeling that the tensioner bearing is faulty (can't really take a chance on that failing!), so I'm going to replace that and see whether that gets rid of the noise

I always used to dilute coolant 50:50 with distilled water, but now I tend to buy the ready mixed Comma Extreme G30.

Thanks that sounds encouraging. I'm planning to remove the cover and have a good look at the tensioner and belt while it is running just for peace of mind.

I'd be grateful for your advice about this I have just swapped the timing belt and water pump for the second time on my Sigma 125. When I started the car, I could hear what I can only describe as belt noise from the front of the engine. It wasn't really noticeable at idle but became much more noticeable at 2000rpm. I have tried running the car briefly with the accessory belt removed and it sounds the same. I have never noticed this sound from the car before. I have only done two things differently to the last belt change: 1. I couldn't get a Gates belt kit from a reputable source (all out of stock), so I bought a Dayco one from www.buycarparts.co.uk 2. I fitted the Caterham parts to convert the tensioner to a fixed one used on the 150 engine. It shouldn't be possible to get the tension wrong as the spring in the unit is used to start with and then the bolt nipped up to secure it in the correct place. I suppose the lack of movement in the tensioner may make it sound different though. Any ideas? Thanks Duncan

It's my car in the calendar and I copied the idea from the excellent guide by AnthonyH here: https://www.lotus7.club/blogs/better-side-screens-half-doors-seen-lowflying-april-2015 I changed two things when I made mine: 1, I didn't want to make the quarter light option, so I left the rear bar higher to stabilise the polycarbonate 2. Having made the polycarbonate the same size as the entire side screen including the soft flap, I then had to bend the top portion over 45 degrees so it tucks in under the half hood. This was tricky, I tried heat and making a big clamp, but in the end just stuck the edge in a big vise and did it by brute force by hand bending short parts at a time. Duncan By the way, I think the trickiest part is finishing off the vinyl where the frame is cut.

You can see my mudflaps in action in my profile photo I made them 2 inches short of the ground as I didn't want them going under the wheel when reversing. I fixed them to the wings using 3 bigheads each side, tigersealed to the wing and then stainless strip preformed to the inside wing profile to clamp them firmly in place. They have lasted really well, but I found the rear wingstay cut into the wing due to the extra load, so I have had to reinforce the wing here with glassfibre and steel sheet bonded to the wing. For that reason, I think attaching them to the wingstay as above is a better idea. Wish I had thought of it Duncan

I got mine from Eastbourne Tyre Co. as they were refurbishing the wheels too. Not particularly cheap, but excellent service

Hi Barry, I know I have 14 inch wheels but I have been happy with my Rain Expert 3 tyres in all conditions, they've even survived a couple of dry track days unscathed and they are available in 185x70x13 at less than £50 each. They aren't as grippy as 21s, but they are safe and fun at slightly lower speeds. Duncan

Ford recommend a 5W30 oil. I use Mobil 1 on road and track, but any good brand would be ok. Duncan

The Sigma wet sump has noticeably more clearance than the Duratec. I know of someone who upgraded went on a favourite oute and cracked the 2 litre Sevens sump.

The correct oil for the Ford diff is an EP90 GL5 oil. Most likely these oils will mix ok, but sometimes people run something a bit more exotic. The filler does indicate the correct level with the car on its wheels. If you want to be sure, you can suck most of the oil out and replace it with an lsd oiloil of your choice, I use Fuchs Titan LS 90. It's worth changing it periodically. Duncan

I was under the impression that sixth is 1:1 because that is direct drive as fourth is in the 5 speed box, so I don't think that is an option unfortunately.

I think going for a very long final drive with the six speed box could give you a very long first gear that would be a pain in traffic.

Just in case you haven't heard, sawing through the adhesive pad with floss is the safest way to remove the old badge. Duncan

I had a quick look on Ebay and it is a lot cheaper to buy a used headlight assembly, so that might be one idea. Alternatively, how complicated is the clip? It might be possible to bend one up from some stainless wire. Duncan

All good advice The way I did it was: 1. Fit the stone guards as you suggested, I didn't bother with washers but have a hand gun. 2. Check the holes in the wing against the rivnuts and holes in the body until all bolts fit easily. At the same time cut away the wing to clear the radius arms (this weakens the wing considerably, so best done after fitting the guards) 3. I glued the wing to body seal to the wing flange with contact adhesive after cutting the notches. This makes it much easier to make holes for the bolts in the trim and save a lot of fiddling while mounting the wing.I Duncan

Odd place to get cracks. I look at the wings as a consumable components, it's usually easy to replace rather than repair, but the cost is higher if you have a non standard colour. I would probably just leave it if the wing is still well attached and strong.

If you spend enough to get proper PIAA Sports Horns they are lighter than the Caterham ones and VERY loud.

If it damaged the UJ holes there must have been a huge amount of force, so if it was my car, I would buy a complete new propshaft. Thank goodness you weren't going faster. Duncan

If the lever won't push down it could be corrosion where the lever goes through the ball pivot.

I have 14 inch wheels so the 60 profile tyres will be less flexible. However, for what it is worth, I used to run mine at 18psi, but looking at a photo on a track day, they looked to be rolling off the rim more than I'd like so I changed to 19psi just fo peace of mind.I Duncan

If you want a cheap repair, I'm running my Sigma engined car with a Polo radiator that cost £28 from Ebay like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RADIATOR-VOLKSWAGEN-POLO-1-0-PETROL-1983-TO-1990-KIT-CAR-380mm-CORE/282665235439?fits=Model%3APolo+Classic&epid=13015445943&hash=item41d02933ef:g:Q88AAOSwSrNZ8ZLK:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true It required a bit of ingenuity to fit, and new mounts, but it cools well and has lasted longer than the Caterham radiator and two replacement Radtecs. I got so fed up of failing radiators, I decided to buy the cheapest so I didn't mind replacing it every year and it's lasted five!

Thanks Ivan

They always used to come assembled, but sometimes virtually without grease. Probably best to check this if this is normal now first. When I replaced mine, I put the alloy hub in the oven at 150C for half an hour and they pressed in easily by hand using an old bearing to push them.