DJ.

Thicker cable is heavier, so I would go with similar to what worked OK previously.

Stainless will probably cause corrosion where they touch aluminium. Also use plastic bolts so in the future they break before the rivnuts and also don't corrode into them.

Yes that one does cover the 1.6 sigma just like Caterham used. Just make sure you're reading the correct part, and remember the inlet valve timing doesn't use the Ford timing tool.

Home now This is the one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focus-Petrol-Service-Repair-Manual/dp/1844257851/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1527274528&sr=8-11&keywords=haynes+focus

I bought the one for Focus mk2 petrol, I can't remember to age range. It does cover the 1.8 and 2.0 versions eith the iron block zetec, but the information got me through a timing belt change on the Sigma.

I bought this tool from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-4275-Flywheel-Locking-Tool/dp/B0039UEHKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527016287&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+flywheel+locking+tool&dpID=41xj-brOPyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The bottom pulley bolt stretches and is included with the Gates timing belt kit. I bought new cam bolts from a Ford dealer, but he couldn't understand why I wanted them. On reflection, the cam bolts aren't toqued very highly and don't need to be replaced I think. I used an excellent tool to lock the flywheel after removing the starter, and I wouldn't want to try doing the job without using that.

When mine failed three years ago, I took the part to a Ford dealer and the parts man found a number on it. He had one in stock and it was £95. I'm pretty sure it comes from Focus/Fiesta with the 1.6 Sigm engine.

If it helps, the Tillet seats supplied with my car are a bloody tight fit in my metric S3. The sidescreen retaing strap studs made using the seat runners useless, so I ditched them.

I made a replacement using the nylon webbing material used for rucksack straps. It is easy to cut with a hot piece of metal, and I made the holes for press stud and bolt with the hot wire too.

Something is most likely cutting power briefly, a poor connection somewhere probably. Does it affect the engine running? Are the lights affected? It's unlikely to fix itself, so the dealer should look into and sort it for you!

As above, I was in convoy with friends in kits (including a 7 litre Ultima ) on the way to Stoneliegh yesterday. We came to a cross roads at the same time and you kindly let me cross ahead of you, thanks Your car looked great. Glad you didn't wait for us all to cross as there were a few more coming. Duncan

I don't think wearing a helmet without a screen gives the wrong impression, it just seems a sensible precaution on a higher speed road.

When I fitted 1144 pads in my standard callipers, I just applied copperslip as usual and had terrible squeal. I removed the pads, cleaned them an fitted the strange stick on pads that came in Mintex box, and they never squealed again.

Jonathan said: A couple of years ago, a car coming the other way flicked up a stone which I hit at more than 60mph. It was aiming at my face, and I got a real shock when it hit the screen hard enough to chip a 1/4" chunk of glass out. I'd never forgive myself if my wife or one of our daughters were scarred or lost an eye driving in the Seven. Duncan

I'm not an expert, but I suspect this is some electric gremlin. My Sigma guage rises slowly to about 80 and then sits there until the engine is switched off unless I am stationary for a while when the temp rises until the fan cuts in. There is no change in temperature when the fan switch is moved. It seems to me that as you move the fan switch, extra current is flowing ( to earth?) through the guage. Duncan

Hi, I was driving the yellow Seven going the other way at Wilmington. Beautiful weather today! We were coming home to Eastbourne after a track day at Goodwood. Thanks for the big wave and smile Duncan

You are absolutely correct to want some padding between the bar and your helmet. When I went to order my kit, I noticed a car in the showroom that had a steel plate attached to the roll bar tight up behind the Tillet headrest. I questioned this, because in effect any driver would be head butting a steel plate in an accident. I was told they set them up so the headrest wouldn't snap. If a tall driver in an S3 fits the latest track day roll bar, their head will end up dangerously close to the steel tubes due to the forward tilt. I ended up ordering the standard bar for this reason, but cannot enter club track days for "safety reasons" . The seat bolt issue is a major pain. Initially, I cured it by welding 2inch bars onto the bolt heads so they cannot rotate in the runners. Currently, I have home made alloy runners with captive nuts, so I can just insert the bolts from under the floor.

I 'm happy running without the exhaust guard, but I did burn myself once when wearing shorts. If it was on the passenger side I would fit a cover. I wouldn't want the catalyst uncovered though, that would be very dangerous to pedestrians I think.

Change the master cylinder, one from CBS is only £25. It's unlikely to be the slave, I hope.

I bought one from Tayna last week. Best price I could find and had it ny 12 the next day. Do check the levels before you use it though.

Last time I did the NC500 I was on Uniroyal Rain Experts with 125 bhp and a friend was on Avon ZZRs with 220 bhp. We had some severe rain to the extent that some roads were like rivers. My friend had a few more "moments" than I did as you'd expect but we both made it home safely. It is fair to say I actually enjoyed the wettest day while my friend survived it, but this was probably more to do with me having much less torque

If you decide on Starcom, I would suggest spending more to get the Digital versdion, because this is good at eliminating wind noise from the microphone. I modified Peltor ear defenders by adding open face Starcom headsets, but other don't use full headsets. I believe Ian B has an in ear solution that works well. There are some good threads on here with more information

I plan to change mine (Sigma 125) after five years as it gets driven a lot harder than the average Focus. Change the water pump and tensioner at the same time. I had to do my first at 18 months when the water pump failed

I found that I needed to tighten the hub nut more than I imagined, becuse the inner part of the bearing started to spin on the stub axle when I backed the nut off. Just regreased them this winter and they were fine after 20,000 miles so I must have got it right