DJ.

I would recommend using Acousta-fil. I repacked my silencer 3 years ago and have had to open it up this winter (due to a crack) and the packing looks like new. No need for wire wool around the tube, and it is easy to put in as it expands after heating Duncan

Sounds great

I was driving a yellow Cactus that flashed to let you turn right. Must have been pretty chilly out this morning Duncan

I always thought you should quench the copper too, it is the opposite of annealing steel which requires slow cooling.

Yes that's it, I think it is something like nylon, it hardly has to flex at all the way it is installed. Any idea how long it lasts?

This is the fuel pipe I have: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/1176-fuel-pipe-pump-to-fuel-rail.html It seems to have survived ok so far, it id very hard and not really flexible to start with and is still the same.

I received my kit in 2010, so next year the hoses will be 10 years old. I had heard the 4 years recommended for the brake hoses, but they always look perfect. I think I will change them this winter as I don't fancy one failing on track or the road. The fuel hose, I can at least inspect at either end, so I think I might leave it a few more years if all looks well. Has anyone one had experience of either type of hose failing and if so at what age?

Every winter, I enjoy doing a thorough service and check over on my Seven ready for the next year. I have changed the timing belt, spark plugs etc as recommended in a schedule I think I got from Caterham. The two items I'm not sure about are the fuel hose and brake hoses. The fuel hose (sigma engine) is the hard black plastic plastic (nylon?) type. I check it annually and no sign of leaks yet, but can only see the ends as it has a plastic sheath covering it. Does anyone know if it should be replaced at a certain age? The brakes hoses on my older cars used to be rubber and it was obvious when they needed doing. With stainless covering, inspection is impossible. Once agin, how often do people change these hoses? Thanks Duncan

I've just looked it up on a test by Bennets: https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/the-best-motorcycle-corrosion-protectants/tested-scottoiler-fs-365-corrosion-protectant-review In the review it was better than ACF-50, but XCP Rust Blocker was better than both: https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/the-best-motorcycle-corrosion-protectants/tested-xcp-rust-blocker-corrosion-protectant-review

That sounds very good Duncan

When I ordered my half hood with one easy in zip, I was warned that it would leak if stationary in heavy rain. On the move it is fine, but sure enough in heavy rain in a traffic jam, it does drip. When parked, I always cover it with a shower cap, and that keeps it very dry. It would be impossible for me to get in without the zip, and I much prefer the half hood to full hood, so I am a happy SBFS customer. Duncan

That looks good. I am using modified standard sidescreens with polycarbonate tops. I really like the improved visibility without the black edging. I had pondered making something similar to yours, but as you say achieving a seal with the scuttle is tricky! Adding some flexible material behind the hinges would improve the seal by the screen if you drivein the wet. Another idea I had was to hot form the whole thing in polycarbonate, giving a bulge for elbow room and a view of the road. However, some sort of rubber edge trim would be needed for sealing and to prevent chafing. I am impressed with yours, I would say it is the best looking screen I have seen Duncan

I used to own an Elan with a feeble umbrella style handbrake. It only worked once a year when I adjusted before the MOT. As someone who uses the handbrake a lot to avoid clutch wear, I took a long time to get used to the car. In the end I used to pull up on a hill dip the clutch and if necessary take it out of gear. I would then sit on the brake until the traffic moved, then using a heel and toe technique, I would raise the revs, engage the clutch and then ease off the brake. To be honest, it was a pain, but there was no choice, and now my Seven has a decent handbrake I never bother using that technique. Do you have the usual Sierra callipers Jonathan? Last MOT, I was congratulated on my "very effective" handbrake and it hasn't been adjusted in the 40,000 miles since I built the car. Maybe there is some friction in your cables or something preventing it applying sufficient pressure. Duncan

Hi, I was in the yellow Seven this morning. Thanks for waving back Duncan

It is certainly possible to repair, but all the cracked are needs.to be groung out and built up in layers, then filled and sprayed. I had minor damage (but worse than yours) to my rear wing and decided it was better to fit a new one as a yellow gel coat wing was £138 including vat. I could repair the glass myself, but would have to pay for spraying and I think that wouldn't be far ofg the cost of a new wing. Duncan

I have a Sigma car and decided to fit a flick wipe switch as SM25T suggested. I decided to add the toggle switch beside the wiper switch though. Not parking is a pain, so probably best to investigate that first. Duncan

Hi, We saw you coming out of the Alfriston road onto the A27. We were in a yellow Cactus. Nice looking car Duncan

Good news

Change the mastercylinder first, Car Builder Oltions sell them for less than £30. Duncan

If you want an extra pair if hands to help, just let me know Barry

Hope you have a good one too, and I hope you get the noise sorted.

We think it was Barry My wife and daughter waved from our yellow Cactus.

I can't see either using Firefox on Debian Linux There are small grey boxes on my Android phone with Firefox Hope this helps Duncan

I have found the Soft Bits half hood to be a very good compromise. The material it is made of folds up very small (even when wet) into the extremely neat holder that clips around the roll cage. In dodgy weather, I keep it sitting on top of the boot cover (straps attached), and can deploy it very quickly. When I ordered it, I was warned that with a zip it would drip when stationary in very heavy rain. I had to have the zip to get in, so far it has only leaked once when stuck in traffic in a cloudburst! I do reproof mine each winter, but it sounds like I probably don't need to . Certainly, I haven't had it undo or flap at speed. I am sure the Thundersports one is good, but from what I understand without Soft Bits there wouldn't have been any half hoods. Duncan

The Ford unit is nicely sealed unlike the new one. When I greased my new version, I added a rubber gaiter to stop grit and water falling into top.