BigCol
-
Posts
2,660 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by BigCol
-
It probably does… I’ve a Type 9.
-
🤷🏻♂️
-
Interesting… Duratec? (Mine’s a Sigma)
-
I’d assume pretty or reasonably tight but not FT… 🤔🤣
-
Later prop shafts don’t have grease nipples (well, mine on a 2013 car doesn’t)
-
I’d suggest it’s the perfect time - there’ll be as wide a choice as at any time of the year and prices naturally at their lowest… Good luck with your purchase! Oh… and welcome!
-
@revilla, is the Gauge Magic available again (link to eBay page still draws a blank)…? Would love a unit for this style if fuel gauge:
-
When I put together a spare set, I was unable to get the ignition key cut by Timpsons or any of my local places so used this lot. I got a spare immobiliser thingy from Caterham and as I never lock my fuel cap, I didn’t bother with a spare for that key.
-
Dunno…. don’t recall there being a choice… would guess black. 🤷🏻♂️
-
but only for under-sized 7s; not for those of us with SVs (Sensible Versions). 😢
-
@Jonathan Kay, you’re always very helpful and prompt in providing this sort of info but, as @Golf Juliet Tango suggests, is there not some central depository on this site where these diagrams (and Assembly Guides) could be stored for more universal access?
-
No - it’s a predominantly flat surface - the only issues are the “corners” and a couple of judicious cuts sorted that. No - guess if you’re concerned then there’ll be stuff in YouTube.
-
Yup - been there, done that! I used 3M Di-noc carbon fibre vinyl. A removable scuttle will make things very much easier but still not too difficult a job and £100s less than a carbon dash! I removed the scuttle. Then removed each switch/gauge and reattached them to their connections behind the dash. Having thoroughly cleaned the empty dash with alcohol, I attached the sticky-backed plastic (for Blue Peter viewers of a certain vintage). The vinyl can be wrapped over the top and bottom edges ahead of cutting the apertures, trimming them a bit and pushing the vinyl edges through the holes before putting the switches etc back. No need to remove the dash. The scuttle was then reattached.
-
Thin rubber edging for Aeroscreen - size and source?
BigCol replied to David_Stamp's topic in TechTalk
I used this stuff both to seal the bottom edge and to add an extra lip to my aeroscreen.
-
nice mirrors…
-
The previous BlatChat worked in exactly the same way - [Shift]+[Enter] would start a new line without a gap and [Return] would add a gap before the next line of text. Useful for lists, like here! 🤷🏻♂️
-
Indeed… for those of us looking back through rose-tinted glasses, it was an amusing idiosyncrasy and overcoming the lack of accurate direction was simply part of the rite of passage!
-
Shouldn’t need to…. should be able to remove hubs and drive shafts together as a sub-assembly.
-
@ScottR400D kindly sent me a summary of the process when I removed my diff last year… I’ll forward it to you by BlatMail (but yes, it is mostly ripping the rear end ifg! 🤷🏻♂️)
-
Good point…
-
After the positive comments of the brass version, that’s my next question…! Amongst others, Burton Power list one, as does Steve Perks of TracSport fame. Given Steve should be working in my diff (again!) soon, that would seem to be the logical purchase route for me.
-
A potential job for me this winter is to fit a Quaife lever to my Type 9, 5-speed gearbox. If I was to get around to doing so, should I fit a new saddle bush at the same time (seems prudent whilst I’m there)? If so, would there be a preference for a brass or a plastic one. 🤷🏻♂️
