At the Yeading test centre for mine, they said they couldn’t use the rollers as the sump would ground getting the car on, so they “road” tested it - and identified that the rears locked-up first.
If you’re referring to replacements for oil pressure, water temperature etc, then physically I think Stack options are straight swap.
Whether the connections and senders are the same, I don’t know!
This thread is an innuendo lover’s paradise!
I removed my original handbrake as suggested above - twisting and pulling…. also as above, file/grind the lump at the bottom of the handbrake before fitting your ali one.
Otherwise, it’ll be a bitch to get off when you decide to go carbon instead (ask me how I know…)
excellent, many thanks… the third-party lights I am going to fit come with a slightly longer lead (assuming they meant mm rather than the m listed in the spec; either way, will have enough!)
If you haven’t got one, it’s worth getting/fitting an isolator switch of some sort so you can stop the parasitic drain of the immobiliser that potentially can drain the battery. Banners once drained are tricky to resuscitate.
I did (as you kindly sent me your notes!) it made it much easier than the initial build but still, positioning the jack, lifting into place, aligning before putting the first fastenings in etc was still far from simple!
I replaced my diff, so had to re-centre as was using a different carrier... like your idea of machined spacers but I lack a lathe etc!
Lifting the diff into place on my own with just a trolley jack was far from easy.
There is never any need to justify being tarty!
Tony the Brush at TSK might be able to help.
Though wasn’t a similar question asked, and answered, about Firecracker Yellow recently? (have had some Forgetful Juice since then so I might be wrong 🤔)