brianmurray325hotmail.com

Thanks for your input DJ, very informative for me! Mine's a 150 horse SV and although only 9000miles under its belt its a 2007 car. I thought a visual inspection might be in order and then of course if I'm going to the trouble of a visual I might as well throw a new belt at it. We can become obsessive about cambelts these days and prone to over insuring our cars with premature changeouts!

Has anybody carried out a cambelt change on a Sigma engine yet. Are there any special locking tools to be had, tensioners to replace, what info is around? any advice is appreciated

Careful, if you've got wide track front suspension i was told you can't get the wheel coverage when i wanted clamshells on my new (then) 2007 SV. I've just fitted new clamshells to my 81' S3 . i've used "Bigheads" tyraps and glue instead of drilling the wings and bolting to the bracket that contacts with the front top of the wing. The other bracket half way along a standard clamshell set up i've left off since it marks the body. The only thing is once you go clamshell you're committed 'cos you've drilled the body work for the rivnuts. Of course you'll need the clamshell type bracket that forms part of the headlight and indicator conduit, don't know if this is available but of course could be made up. I've got a set of clamshell wings in standard caterham green gelcoat which of course could be painted to suit, they already drilled for side indicators and securing bolts which could be filled.

Has anybody had a successful and happy experience carrying out a project like this without issues on emissions at MOT time and also with guaranteed reliabilty and performance. I'm thinking of getting something done with my Sport 160 Elise to sharpen it up a bit and also get rid of the drivability issues (Overfuelling i think is the cause, but anyway something that it came out of the factory with) I get a mixed response from various sources who i think could execute the job and being of an engineering background i'm blessed with a certain amount of cynicism especially when i hear a "of course we can do it". Before I lay out well in excess of a couple of grand i want some confidence that i'm not going to loose any of the legendry K series relelability Any first hand experiences would be much appreciated.

I can't be the first to experience this! My washer bottle is mounted in the engine comp't on the passenger side foot well bulkhead, car is a 2007 SV. I haven't weighed a full bottle of washer fluid, less than a kilo but the inertia of the bottle whilst on the move has managed to create enough force to tear the aluminium foot well, a 2"radius tear has appeared around the v shaped bracket that carries the bottle, p**s poor assembly by CC I'd say. I had to pop rivet a compensating pad over the hole in order to spread the load that the bottle inflicts in this area, such an un-necessary faff on. Somebody else must have experienced this *mad*

ta Eugene, great deal, good effort, can't wait for the originals to wear out!!!

i think i have a couple of sets of mint ones, never did like orange ears and took 'em off....live dangerously, they may or may not have cable tails on them so you may need to solder ...BM me if you want me to try and dig 'em out

i'll take a pair c/w circlips

email i'll take a pair c/w crclips

Does anybody have one of these old crossflow systems for sale. Complete system with silencer will be acceptable or what have you??

Can anybody help, what is the allowable end float for front wheel bearings on a 7, Its not the prehistoric Triumph spitfire taper type bearings which you can obviously tighten up, but the type you'd find on later cars, mines a 2007 SV. I think my MOT man is may be over enthusiastic in giving out "red cards"

i got some from eliseparts

if you know webers you'll know ron harper, he's done nothing but rebuild, specify, install and tune webers since his early twenties (he won't own upto it but he's 70 now and still racing) He is / was weber agent in the north, the webcon guys know him well......so if you want the job done properly he's your man, he takes care of my crossflow 7. by the way you'll get full hand written report on the state of yours.

to much amarone, roll over protection i assumme........(!!??)

do you meean a full diff' unit less axle housing, drive shafts, brakes etc, i've got a couple but i think that they are low ratio

Had mine tested last weekend, one CR 500 cracked (see my posting). rear anti roll bar bottom bush offside had play although not an mot "FAIL"(£5.00 from CC). MOT tester questioned front wheel bearing play/end float but let it go (the front wheel bearings do have end float). Exhaust emissions were clean as he'd ever seen, i can't remember the readings but i've had a couple of ecu updates from CC. My car is a 2007 SV150 Sigma engined car with 9k on the clock.

Sorry ........Toyo R 1 R not A 1 A

one of my CR 500s has just failed an MOT. One of the rears has in the last 6 months developed cracks on the inboard side wall, its about 6 months since i had the wheels off to change the brake fluid and it was ok then. The tyres are 5 years old or to be precise car is 5 years old and obviously tyres were new when the car was fac' built at CC. The car has been garaged and spent approx 4 hours a weekend for half the year in natural light .that is when its been out of the garage. Fortunatly they were about shot anyway wrt tread depth after 9000 miles. i'm trying toyos a1a (i think) this time around, 50 profile x 195 x 15

So i guess that if you use the Caterham kit you're left with unused holes in the nose cone sides and if you go for the more expensive 7-speed kit you don't have this issue.

are these lowering brackets the 7 Speed product or Caterhms own?

has anybody upgraded from the sigma engine to the duratec unit. does the existing exhaust primary transit hole in the bodywork line up with duratec primaries or does in need enlarging?

Just remember the one primary point, the fuse is there to protect the cable not the device its a corner stone of the IEE Wiring regs

has anybody got these new seats within striking distance of north yorkshire, i'm thinking of getting these but would like to look and sit in one before i buy and i don't want the 600 mile round trip to cat south

has anybody any experience of the 160bhp to 175 bhp upgrade to the non vvc engine the Dave Andrews offers, i'm thinking of treating my Sport 160 Elise to an xmas pressy

my 2007 Sigma 150 SV has had an inherent inaccuracy in the fuel gauage reading from day one when i got the car factory built from CC. I wasn't fully aware of it until my round trip to le mans this month (the car gets little use involving more than a 60 mile run and i tend to keep it topped up). i believe there were issues mentioned some time ago but i didn't think it involved my car. Has anybody had a similar problem and got a "Fix"? Is it a compatability issue between the sender and the gauge? Several fill ups on the Le Mans trip give me the impression that there's something like a 20%, its been showing "hard down on empty" and i've had a 100 more miles or so out of it. 🤔