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brianmurray325hotmail.com

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Everything posted by brianmurray325hotmail.com

  1. http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Din_Connectors.html Heres what i used, mounted it on the bulkhead under the dash on the passenger side, i can still access it when in the drivers seat, so didn't deface the dash! wiring is a short distsnce to the battery, Its out of sight of the general public (so doesn't give a clue that you may have a sat nav stowed somewhere in the car)
  2. i've got a set of 4 wings (fronts are clams) in original gel coat Caterham Green complete with stone guards on rears and side repeaters on fronts, c/w rubber joing strips. Would be ideal for painting. Very minor filling required no crazing to speak of. £100 for the 4, also 4 off 7" headlamp bowls c/w rim, £50 for the 4 (2 in caterham green and 2 chromed they're in TS7, Cleveland
  3. thanks lads...a bit to think about there, the 2.3 torque sounds appealing to me
  4. i need a few more horses, only for the road. Should i go for the 2.0 or the 2.3 duratec. i'm thinking of a cosworth "crate engine" i'd like about 220bhp. Its going into my 2007 SV in place of the sigma 150bhp. Has anybody any advice/experience?
  5. i've got a pair of Luke 4-point harnesses in black they are not dated but have passed an MOT in July this year, you'll need a set of bolts, i have 2 with the belts. £30 + postage
  6. i've got 4 off 7" headlamps c/w with sealed beam units that are working. 2 are chrome finish and are complete with side light fitting inside, there's some chrome on the underside of one of them that has peeled off but when the lamp is fitted it can't be seen. £40 the pair + postage. 2 are in Caterham green and have working sealed beam units but are minus the side light fitting that sticks on the inside with supa glue or the likes not sure where you can get these from. £30 the pair + postage. Various lenses : 2 rear light unit lenses. 3 red foglight lenses, 2 front indicator lenses orange, 2 wing repeater lenses orange. £20 the lot + postage. would prefer to sell the lot in a one-er for £70+postage
  7. BMW E30 Thule roof rack less bars, 4 foot pads you need to buy the bars from halfords, £25 + postage
  8. I'm just about had enough of this gutless 150bhp unit and have decided that to pull an SV along you need about 220bhp. I'm not trackday-ing ...too old, but i'm wanting a nice quick road car, docile in traffic but needs to "deliver on request", reasonable compression ratio so i can continue to fuel up at the supermarket and also use the foreign muck you get abroad. It'll be a Duratec of course but should i go for a 2.0 or 2.3, a Cosworth packaged unit or a Raceline packaged unit, time precludes me from anything but routine maintenance so i'll want to drive it in with 150 bhp and drive it out transformed. Has anybody got advice / experience. Are standard pistons and crank going to suffice, can i do without a dry sump set up? I bought the SV new with all the bits to accept an upgrade, big brakes etc. I like the 5-speed box and i don't see the requirement to go to the 6-speed unit for my needs, i want a duratec that will pull that overdrive 5th
  9. Since changing out my all of my wide track wishbones on the sv i've not had it aligned and all the Geo' checked, thought i'd drive it a little since CC said the new aero wishbones were factory set for the correct camber (!?). However after about 1.5k, whilst the steering feels ok etc, i can see a slight "scrubbing" on the tyres telling me i need a visit to the clinic since CR500s are too dear to treat like that. I have total confidence in the guys that'll be doing it but i'll be under there with them. can anybody tell me what one rotation of the top ball joint rod equates to in Degrees/Minutes of camber? I will of course have all the lasers hooked up to measure it but its just a pain having to split that ball joint to get the camber correct. I did read it somewhere but have lost the thread. By the way i have all of the washers in the correct location on the inner ends of the wishbones.
  10. p.s. i've got 120bhp at the back wheels, thats scary, nearly as quick as the Elise!!!!
  11. steve, i,m on the train at the mo, i'll dig the official set up proc, out this weekend and send it to you, its got the kg/hr of air you need and TPS settings etc
  12. Well isn't it strange! i'm on Lambda sensor No3 on my Sigma 150 in 7000 miles, tried it with both Cat in service and Cat bypass pipes in service, car still likes to consume oxygen probes. Never owned a vehicle where i've had so much problem with the device. I daren't leave home with out one! I had the same symptoms as above, during acceleration its ok of course because the control loop that the probe is in goes "Open Loop" to allow maximum fuel delivery. I'm wondering if there's something that's poisening the probe, which they are prone to, sealing compound, gasket compund that may have been used during the engine assembly. May be if thats the case i'll have burnt it off, destroying probes on the way, and things may be ok from now on...fingers crossed
  13. gents, thanks very much for your responses,i think i'll go for the project over the coming winter. Dave interesting articles , hadn't come across that before rgds bm
  14. Its a bit historic these days as there can't be many wanting to do this now but is it much of a job? , whats required? obviously 1) a 5 speed gearbox, 2) a bellhousing to suit my short cockpit crossflow, 3) shortened prop shaft i believe. do I need a new clutch assy? are there any issues with the input shaft do I need a new gearbox mounting and does it need any welding to the chassis? does the transmission tunnel need a bit of metal bashing to accommodate the new gear lever / remote? Do I need to go hydraulic on the clutch actuation or will my existing cable be ok? Any advice help appreciated... I might be interested in buying some good bits that I need to do the job if anybody has them for sale.
  15. just buy the bit from caterham (a Y piece shaped like a catapult) and do a proper job, it fitted my old 81 crossflow and it keeps the spare from rubbing on the bare ali
  16. can't believe that this is still going on, i had the problem in november 2007 with my new SV, i thought that there may have been a CC solution by now
  17. Had the problem within 10 miles of CCmidlands after i'd picked up my new sv150 on the 31st october 2007. Stopped to gas up and hey presto, pump nozzle would fit, managed to spill 15p worth in, a frantic call to Nick at CC MIDLANDS resulted in an "Oh yes, there are some strange size pump nozzles"... my ar**e....poorly thought out design and implementation more like! Anyway further conversation with James Gibson resulted in the final solution...rive out the check valve flap with great difficulty as some previous posts state, then all was ok
  18. gents thanks, lots of great advice there, kicked a few tyres at Pure Lotus today found J pretty helpful, he's not especially a vvc fan. I like the idea of the cheap throwaway engine fitted with some top end mods (bit reminiscent of the crossflow). If things did get cooked it sounds a cheap repair could be executed. One thing that the PL man mentioned, when you come to sell a standard car you could get C of C should a mainland european want to buy, with a vvc you can't, a pretty small point as far as i'm concerned but may be worth noting. Saturday night ahead for contemplation and box ticking thanks again
  19. I've almost decided to part with my 81' short cockpit crossflow Cat in order to make space for an Elise S1. Space allows me to keep the sv150 so i'm not deserting the cause!shame i can't double deck 'em. Anyway i've always steered shy of that Rover engine for the usual problem and indeed waited until Caterham returned to its roots and went Ford before i chanced a new car. However as old age creeps nearer i need to try a few cars i've always fancied, the s1 elise being one of them. Should i pursue a VVC engined car rather than just the normal 1800cc unit, i feel that the latter may be a bit gutless any advice? What would you go for, its got to be an S1though.
  20. you'll always get the inside wet! i always remove the rubber mats and check everything is dry under there (it never is of course), thats why i think rubber mats are better than carpets. I also regularly wipe the floor pan with a waxoyled cloth, including under the seats..................its all good fun loving your 7
  21. I have a spare wheel carrier, but usually leave it off unless i'm touring. When its off the number plate which is in a number plate frame/carrier bolts (complete with its light) to the existing holes in the chassis that secures the spare wheel carrier. The hole/threaded captive nut that takes the spare wheel centre bolt, when not in use, is covered with a 7 nose cone badge, aesthetically quite pleaing solution. Presumably you have a "modern" chassis that is drilled at the bottom back memeber to take a carrier, if not you need to drill and also cut the u-shaped notches in the ally back panel. The whole job is effectivly fitting a spare wheel carrier but once fitted removal is quick and easy and as i say aesthetically pleasing when the number plate is fitted and the 7 nose cone badge is place over the centre hole. Let me know if you want photos
  22. i have a sept 1981 s3 short cockpit and i believe that in those days they were all short cockpit i.e basically a Lotus 7 S3 with a bit of strengthening in the chassis at the sides and across the front where the lotus used to break. True, wrt the rear bulkhead...there isn't one! it consists of 2 diagonl memebers and the seat back provides the only separation between passenger compartment and boot. the tunnel is a shade wider 'cos i had a bit of trouble forcing my replacement leather seat back in which came from a later car (LC). The other point is i measured it against my mates LC car and mine's about 2" shorter from the from the top of the dash to the rear "bulkhead" centre line. According to one of my "history books" LCs where introduced in '83. Anymore info or photos let me know....................by the way does anybody want to buy this piece of history.....its as near a Lotus 7 s3 as you'd get
  23. St of wide track wishbones for metric chassis S3 or SV. Done 7k, off my 2007 Sigma SV, bushes and ball joints in perfect condition (just passed MOT). Caterham part Nos (on website),34F011A, 34F012A, 34F013A and 34F014A, less than half price £250 + £20 P&P
  24. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/catkit1.html&xsl=product.xsl try here
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