z7

Sorry for the hijack 😳 Geoff, is there a waiting list, as I may not be able to make it now? ☹️ ☹️ z7

Thanks, Q102. YHBM.

I've fitted the top rail and hose fine but I'm having a problem fitting the lower rail and hoses, i.e. from the water pump to the bottom of the rad. It all seems too long to fit. I know some have cut the hoses and I have done some of that but it just doesn't seem right. Does anyone have any info on how they got on, and any pictures of their installation, please? My seven is my only car; and it's booked for it's MoT on Monday, so I really need to get this sorted today. Appreciate any help. z7

Thanks

T1PAU - is that part number #STSM 🤔 I've done the cleaning thing too many times - it needs a proper solution. Thanks

Thanks guys

Jason, if you login on to www.lotussevenclub.com, the forms can be downloaded from "What's On". I'm not up-to-date, so will let Geoff answer your other question. z7

Thanks, Jason. Given the number of times I've had to "fix" the brake light switch, it's probably all the flexing that has caused the break ... hopefully. But yes, I should find the cause. It might just be wear and tear, she's 10 years old this month. I didn't check the voltage on both sides of the fuse but did confirm it had supply. Also, by flexing the lead to the brake light switch that the lights did come on. Hence, my diagnosis. Thanks for the link. With my head under the dash, and my 🙆🏻 in the air, I couldn't tell if the fuse holder is a single unit or, as I suspect, modular with several fuses per holder. Do you know? How easy is it to remove the scuttle - I have a heated windscreen? I suspect that route will give better access to connecting to the fuse holder? Cheers Edited by - z7 on 14 Apr 2011 22:01:17

I've found the problem: I have a break in the supply, green wire, either in the "flying" lead from the loom to the brake light switch, or further in to the loom. The reverse light is connected in series from the brake light switch, hence its failure. My quandary now is how best to fix: 1 - the proper fix is to remove and replace the whole length of the offending wire but that would mean unwrapping and re-wrapping the loom, and I don't want to do that for just this problem. It may also disturb other wiring and introduce another fault. 2 - run a new wire from the fuse to the brake light switch, and simply cut the offending failed wire at each end. 3 - cut the broken wire from a point before the break and attach a new piece. But I'm not keen on this as it introduces a weak point having a join. I'll probably go with 2 but does anyone know how the wire connects to the fuse holder? I'm guessing it's hard wired rather than on a simply plug? Any other suggestions welcome. z7

...on Thursday evening about 7.45. z7

I only checked the brake bulb and there was no supply. I didn't check for short to earth on it though because at that time I thought it was a supply issue. (Being mother's day I didn't have tome to go back.) But both leads to the reverse light switch were short to earth. Which make me rethink it's not a break in the supply but a short. But I don't understand why the fuse hasn't blown Thanks

Thanks guys. It occurs to me now that it may not be a short as the fuse is fine. So, must be a break in the supply somehow

Neither my reverse or brake lights are working. The fuse is OK; both switches are OK; and the side lights are OK. Having removed the brake light bulb, I didn't measure volts on it's connectors. However, when I got on to looking at the reverse light switch, both leads are short to earth! I presume this is why I had no volts at the bulb connector. I didn't go back to confirm this. I'm now stuck as I don't know the circuitry, and how these circuits are related. From the common fuse, the circuits have some commonality but I don't know how or where. The wiring diagrams from CC website look incomplete - they disappear off the page - and I can't read them easily on my netbook anyway. I'll get a clearer view tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to track this down? It looks like I have to trace the wires looking for possible points where they may short to the chassis. Not looking forward to that task! Where do I find the common places - both electrically and/or physically? The latter probably varies between cars, and is a silly question perhaps! FYI, my car is a 1999/2000 CKD, built with a Zetec, live axle. Thanks for any help. z7 Edited by - z7 on 14 Apr 2011 14:25:21

http://wallpapers-diq.com/wallpapers/17/Aston_Martin_Bertone_Jet_2_Concept.jpg

Eugene, what ratios and 'box did you go for 🤔 That's an upgrade I want to do. Sorry for the hijack, zetec. Hope you're back on the road soon.

Yeah, me too ... had I known ☹️

Hi - I presume these are available for anyone / Club member to buy 🤔 A generic version would make a good addition to the Club's regalia.

Chris, So I've let the pump run for a bit and then quieten down, given 4 pumps on the throttle, waited a second or so hit the starter button and then pump the throttle. It did start but begrudgingly.I use the same procedure but don't apply any throttle whilst turning the key (in my case), once she fires then I add a bit, in this weather certainly. Being a bit dim but wouldn't it be worth your while updating to fuel injection or don't zetecs respond well to that sort of upgrade?They do, apparently, respond well but the wallet doesn't Adil Edited by - Adil on 9 Mar 2011 17:53:55

Blah

Thanks Barry. I'm just too polite - how could a 500 error be my fault. 😬 CageyH, as I'm now an AR, I thought I might use and AR username. Otherwise, additional usernames should be frowned upon. 😬

Hi Barry, Long time no see. I'm trying to register another username but when I submit I get "500 - Internal server error." I've tried a few times since yesterday. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks Adil Edited by - adil on 11 Feb 2011 11:34:46

Hi Geoff, Can you add me to the list for May 18th BHGP, please. Thanks Adil

Nick, I did measure it but didn't realise how significant the relative length of the inner cable and outer sheath was. But I now know which one to order from Burtons. Cheers, Adil

Being my only car, I'm often out and about in town; and yep, cable sorted.

Belated thanks for the replies. Redline had them, £25, but don't open on Satudays and I wanted to get it done last Sat. I found a QCC1062 at a local motor spares shop, £15, which I fitted. Unfortunately it was too long and didn't work. Really annoyed with myself for not checking it properly. Southern Motor Factors managed to get one I thought could be correct but they couldn't confirm. So... Today I went to Burton Power with my old one and now have fitted a QCC1045 which is about 30cm shorter and correct for my install. It's for a Capri Mk1 £10 Fortunately, I decided to fit it whilst at Burton's. Good job because the eyelet that slots in to the pedal hadn't been finished properly and had a lump that prevented it from slotting in. Popped back in to the shop and they swapped it for another. Job done ❗ One of the reasons I bought my 7 was to learn, and I've leant there's more to clutch cables than I had thought 😳 Thanks Adil