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Front Brake Upgrade - Which one to go for


oldbutnotslow

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There's no standard Wilwood setup, with different owner going different routes. I wanted something to go over the standard disks so I went with Billet Dynalite 2s. The weight saving is significant and the pedal feel is better, so I'm happy.

 

I had to change the hoses as the caliper fittings are different.

 

SEP field working, not spotted in 103,100 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan

 

Edited by - Oliver Sedlacek on 22 Feb 2005 20:05:25

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Oldandnotgoing,

 

Ammo has the Hi Spec front caliper and disc kit.

Very light and look fine.

 

Am thinking of doing this myself so did a Google search as suggested and found no negative comments...in fact found very little about Hi Spec brakes at all *confused*

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

 

Edited by - Nifty on 22 Feb 2005 20:38:31

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A standard MC would in theory needs to be depressed further to achieve the same result. Long pedal travel on brakes is often the result of a small diameter MC and large diameter pistons in the callipers. I am never sure that a set up like this is ever going to stop!

 

So is fitting a CC big brake kit and not uprating the MC a waste of money/time? I thought there were a few cars where the standard MC had been retained for budget purposes. I'm interested in this point as I have the CC brake kit ready to fit to the wife's car but haven't sorted out an uprated MC as yet. Should I wait it out?

 

Nick

 

Yellow HPC - A 2.0 VX - 😬

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Nick,

How much peddle travel do you have now?

If the inferance is that the comp master cylinder is matched to the uprated brakes, then the uprated fronts must have a piston area about a third bigger than the standard brakes.

If you fit the big brakes without the uprated M/C then you'll have around a third more peddle travel than you currently have.

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Thank you very much for your comments and contributions. You have given me quite a lot to think about. As the car wont be on the road for a little while, awaiting the attentions of Mr Andrews, its not something I have to do right now. I am going to have a ponder.

 

Grant

 

Black and stone chip and currently not going ☹️

here

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Timbo, the Outlaw 2000's fitted directly on to the front of my 1997 Caterham. Simply undo the existing bolts, make the swop and replace the bolts.

 

They come with replacment flexi pipes as the caliphers have a different hydraulic fitting to the Caterham standard items.

 

... they were also considerably lighter

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine

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I have the standard m/c with the AP bike brake kit, and don't have any issue with brake travel etc. They are certainly a massive improvement on the standard brakes.

 

Could you do me a favor and quantify a bit the massive improvement? I'm keen to improve the braking on my seven, but what I'm looking for is less pressure on the peddle to achieve the same amount of retardation, if that makes any sense! (ie a bit more what it feels like on my tintop, which has servo assisted brakes).

 

I never drive the car to the point where the brakes might overheat, so that side isn't so important to me!

 

M.

 

Edited by - MartinS on 23 Feb 2005 13:06:11

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I have the big ap front brakes on the standard master cylinder.

 

The pedal travel is further than before, however it is still a huge improvment over the small brakes. The balance (front to rear) is hugely better, as is the feel and overall stopping power and resistance to fade/fluid overheat.

 

You'll never get them feeling like a tin tops servo assist braking, which IMO is a very good thing.

 

 

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John.... me thinks that the upright on the later 7s is modified and won't suit the M16 replacement. Could be wrong though. Would be nice to be proved wrong as the Outlaw route seems extremely attractive and for very little cost.

 

 

 

Emerald Isle's 1st SV 148lbft @ 6091rpm/182bhp @ 6690rpm engineered for low revs

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm with you that I don't want them to have as little feedback as my tintop brakes, but at the moment with the pressure I have to apply to make the car stop quickly it doesn't fill me with confidence.

 

Interestingly though, thinking back to when I've driven a F3000 car at JP days, you have to push as hard if not harder with them (when cold), except in that instance the peddle felt more firm.

 

Anyway, thanks for your thoughts :)

 

M.

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I have driven JJ's (AO) 7 considerably. He is using the std master cyl with AP 4 pot frt brakes.

 

Got to say that the brakes are astonishingly good. There is a higher degree of initial feel through the pedal as opposed to a solid/firm pedal with the uprated m/cyl. When you touch the pedal it is progressive... push a little harder and the brakes lock solid. Nice.

 

Emerald Isle's 1st SV 148lbft @ 6091rpm/182bhp @ 6690rpm engineered for low revs

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I’ve just ordered the Caterham "High Effort" brake pedal part No 77198A from CC. I understand that the length of the pedal above the trunnion is greater. Therefore, the same pedal movement at your foot end will result in a greater movement on the M/C end. In theory this should reduce the pedal pressure for a given stopping distance but I don’t know by how much until I get it and compare lengths in order to work out a ratio. My parts list shows this as costing £19.54 + vat +pp. Assuming that the current costs are the same I reckon its worth a fling!

 

Grant

 

Black and stone chip and currently not going ☹️

here

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