Rick W

I'm waiting for someone to turn up who has fitted a 'high ratio' brake pedal. Don't know exactly what is supposed to do - or if it does it - but it's cheap enough at around £15-20.

😬 😬 Still £120 though. Think of all the more interesting things you could get for that... Curry and beer every night for a week for starters.

OK, thanks chaps - there's no cord showing but given the strength of views I think I'll be off for a new tyre this w/e. Darn it.

Grrrr! Just managed to clip a kerb with a newish P6000 in a V70. Taken a small, triangular lump out of the sidewall about 2cm long, 1cm at widest point, 3mm deep. I really don't want to scrap a new tyre - is there a rule of thumb method of working out what is/isn't safe? Or are sidewalls repairable?

Calling Manx Seven, Wondered if you've fitted your high ratio brake pedal yet and, if so, what's it like?

Jackb Does this mean Emerald have finally produced a unit for the vvc engine? Am interested in this also - can you provide some more details of this and the Jenveys please.

I'm being a bit lazy here. Somewhere in the archives is a gem about leaving the car with the brake pedal (wedged?) on as hard as possible overnight and then abruptly releasing the pedal pressure the next day. Can anyone enlighten me on the exact procedure and also why it should make a difference. Thanks

Thanks, Norman, I wasn't so much saying I wanted to go that route - it was just that just about every other K engined car seems to have a cable clutch and I assumed there was some benefit- so grateful for you to clarify the point. Chelspeed, that sounds interesting. Given that my crb is alreading whinging at the 4.5k stage I'd like a more reliable mech. What is the concentric bearing from and where do I get one? Have many folks gone down this route?

I've got a vvc engine and therefore have a hydraulic clutch. I believe vvc cars have to go down this route 'cos the vvc mechs take up too much space to allow a cable system. However I'm planning a winter upgrade. If I go down the solid cam route (via DVA of course) and lose the vvc mechs does that mean I could swap to a cable clutch? Are there any benefits to this? Or is the vvc casing retained and therefore the hydraulic system?

Mick, Thanks, those are exactly the sort of words/advice I was hoping to hear - but I've never heard of 'Hawk metallic type pads'. Could you enlighten me further. Also toying with the idea of a high ratio pedal. Any idea of the cost (I'm being lazy 'cos I've a feeling it's in the archives somewhere).

On the assumption that a major benefit of big brakes is the improved cooling/lack of fade is there a benefit over std brakes (particularly if fitted with Pagids) if just for road use? I've got limited budget for upgrades and would rather spend it on engine mods.

Norman, I understand the point about the airlock in the rear sierra caliper but what is meant by 'not winding out'?

Any idea when you'll be fitting it? This is of great interest and I'll be looking for your feedback asap. How much was it and what is involved/how does it work?

I've used uprated H4, 100/80w bulbs in all of my tintops for as long as I can remember which is 20 years plus (whilst offroad of course). In that time I have never had a problem with either the wiring overheating or oncoming drivers (also offroad of course) expressing any sign of irritation. Which is more than I think can be said of the gas discharge bulbs fitted to Audis and MBs which I find blinding - even though they're legal. That I've gone to the effort of changing the bulbs whenever I change my car suggests it's a worthwhile improvement.

Does anyone have experience of fitting the uprated m/c to standard brakes? I assume this gets rid of the mushiness but what about braking performance? Or uprated m/c and pagids perhaps? I know the Caterham big brake package is excellent but it's soo expensive...