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Brake and Clutch fluid / bleed


Ainsley

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Hi, I'm about at the build stage where I need to fill the car with fluids.

Can anyone recommend a brake / clutch bleed kit that would make life easier.  I imaging its not possible to do the job manually by hand on your own.

Looking at some of the previous threads it seems some rate gizmos, others say its cheaper and simpler just to do it manually, albeit that will require two people. I do have access to a helper.

Anyone got any experience of doing both methods ?

I'm used to doing the job manually myself on my motorcycles, but that's a one man job and the callipers are small, so its not time consuming or difficult.

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Only done the brakes. I now use a Gunson Eezibleed and a spare wheel as reservoir on top and a one-way valve at the bottom. And no helper. 

But I'm interested in those "speed bleeders" that have recently been discussed:

 

Jonathan

PS: Why start a new thread? We can't tell what you've found already... 

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Gunson Eezibleed does work but can be messy.

Like Jonathan I would be interested in the speed bleeders and also a vacuum bleeder that is attached to the bleed nipple.

On an initial fill I would see if you can get gravity to do some of the work, fill the reservoir and open the bleed nipples to see if fluid flows by gravity. The other important thing is not to be too enthusiastic and pump so much fluid that the reservoir empties and draws more air

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Sealey brake bleeder worked really well for me.

Before adding fluids, I used the Sealey to pressurise the system to 20 psi and left it for a couple of hours to see if there were any leaks. Much better to try to isolate any leaks without drips / sprays / puddles of corrosive liquid everywhere. With that confidence, I then filled the system, bled it and repeated the 20 psi test. Going around all the joints with a blue towel will quickly show up any "micro-leaks" at any joint.

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With the speed bleeders you attach your bleed pipe, open the valve (this is a different closure to the one you would open doing it the old fashioned way)

And just pump the pedal, then when you are done close the valve, remove your bleed pipe and job done, onto the next.

Brakes bleed up nice and hard and no dramas needing any help.

image.gif.245fd7a22c84ea689e9cf2faeac18a51.gif

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The sequence is important Ainsley, you want to start with the longest runs from the master cylinder and work back towards it. If you have the big brakes, don't forget there is a bleed nipple on the inside and outside. The recommendation is to do the inside nipple first so that all bubbles are eliminated up to that point before before moving on to the outside one. This seemed to work well for me anyhow 🙂 

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Also, don't forget to remove the slide bolt on the rear caliper nearest the bleed nipple to allow it to be tilted upwards for bleeding, (if not remove the caliper completely while the line is still attached, ensuring a block of wood or similar is used to stop the piston being ejected). You won't get an air-free bleed in the rear calipers if they are kept horizontal, the bleed nipple base has to be higher than any other fluid-containing area of the caliper.

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Call me old fashioned.. but I wouldn’t go near a pressurised brake bleeder. The thought of something popping off and spraying brake fluid around my car fills me with fear. I make my wife a cuppa and use the two man method.
Doesn’t take too long to replace, initial fill may take slightly longer but certainly not as long as cleaning up brake fluid from everything! 

22daz

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1 hour ago, 22daz said:

Call me old fashioned.. but I wouldn’t go near a pressurised brake bleeder. The thought of something popping off and spraying brake fluid around my car fills me with fear.

See Ian's note upthread about where to not put the new fluid in an Eezibleed or similar system. 

Jonathan

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