prisoner7

One other trick I've used to find things. The "guide" will say you need a part and I have no idea what it looks like. I'll then go onto the CC parts web sight and enter that part name and then see it. For me, seeing what I am looking for made looking for that part easier. Happy scrounging.

I had the same problem with the rad. FWIW - building this car is much like the children's puzzle "Where's Waldo?" I was shipped the wrong radiator and the wrong radiator brackets. This in turn made me paranoid that "...everything is missing..." HOWEVER, I calmed down, broke the cycle of "...oh...they forgot again..." and looked hard for parts. And found them. The other thing that I figured out what that the "Assembly Guide" (it's no manual) is wrong and out dated. If you look on pages 151-152 at the knee pads for the cockpit, you'll see the RHS knee pad has a hole in it. Yet if you look at https://www.tiggercaterham.co.uk/search?q=knee You'll see that CC now ships different parts. I'm a few months ahead of you and agree with the frustration. CC moving is not helping any of us. And bags and boxes are in unexpected and in some ways illogical places. But most of the parts are someone. I just had to dig hard to find them.

I obviously need more tools. More to do, more to learn, this makes sense.

Scott - I did search for information about this before I posted this question. Unfortunately for me, I'm in the US and won't have access to CC's PBC. Thank you - all of you, for your inputs.

Jonathan - brand new car. Fuel = 1/3 and fresh within the month. Battery is strong, not a voltage problem. This is from a cold start. Outside temperature around 10 degrees celsius . Scott - does this problem go away?

I’m building 420SV (Ford, Mazda, LSD). I've run the engine for about an hour. When I start the engine, it immediately stalls. I have to rev the motor to about 1,110 RPM for about 5 to 10 minutes. After this time, the engine will idle smoothy at about 800 to 900 RPM. Is this normal? And if it is normal, how many more hour(s) of run time does the engine need to run before this situation goes away? Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

I'm using the Sealey and found it works well. There are various blogs that will help you along.

OK…this is a rant. I’m building a LHD 420S SV with the dry sump AND heater options. I’m fast approaching the end of the build and am watching/reading various posts for PBC and IVA hints, tricks and suggestions. And while the Colonies do not have the IVA, we have our own bureaucrats, and a bureaucrat is a bureaucrat. On page 79 of the Assembly Guide (v 2.3…and I use the term ‘guide’ rather loosely) it clearly shows the Wet/Dry sump sub-assembly - Temperature Sensor being routed UNDERNEATH what appears to be an unused platform on the rear of the engine. The rest of the coolant plumbing flows from here. Imagine my surprise when I watch simonbennett3’s “Corrective Work” video: Caterham 420R - Corrective Work Jump to the 3:23 minute mark, you can see CAT during the PBC routes the Wet/Dry sump sub assembly OVER THE TOP, using p-clips to mount the j-hose to the platform at the back of the engine. FWIW - in the owners handbook on page 35, you can see hoses routed this way for the 620. Simon’s 420 build is for a R, and my car is the S…and perhaps this is why the rerouting. The downside for me to do this is a great deal of disassembly, draining of coolant, hopefully no draining of oil, possibly buying new hoses and and and…a day or two of aggravation. The upside is better routing of hoses, more space for when I have to bleed the clutch and generally a cleaner ‘look’ to the engine. So…I’m very curious…what does the collective wisdom of the CAT-Masters say? I look forward to reading your wisdom.

Ainsley - I just sent you the IVA checklist.Enjoy.

I'm building a 420SV (LHD) and put soft rubber on the differential to limit the "chatter" that will happen when the cover rubs on the differential. All part of the joy.

aerobod - poor eyesight - i’m at 10 psi/1 bar. And my mistake was not closing the bleed nipple while releasing clutch pedal. Thanks!

My mistake, I meant 10 PSI. Thank you for the help.

I'm building a 420 SV, 5 speed Mazda transition. How do I know when the clutch is property bled? I removed the battery, engine ECM and disconnected the wiring loom to gain better access to the valve Removed the nipple, turns the bleed valve 1/2 a turn, hooked up hoses etc. I’m using a Sealy pump (holds 10 bar pressure well, no leaks). I filled up the reservoir and engaged the pump, then slowed pushed the clutch in and out. Fluid drained, but it was not a constant air-bubble-free flow. I let the clutch out and then sealed the valve. See the pic to get a sense of how much fluid drained. Should I pump fluid until its a solid stream? My other question is this; when the system is under pressure (10 bar), the fluid drains to the bottom of the reservoir. But when I release the pressure and remove the Sealy, the fluid flows back and fills up the reservoir Is this normal? Am I doing this wrong?

Hate to tell you this...but read this blog... https://caterham420rjoy.wordpress.com/2021/12/14/full-carpets/

Following the directions from CAT worked. All 3 hoses are installed, no kinks and enough space for hose 39C059A to not touch the alternator. FWIW - I knew going into this that the instruction are incomplete and that the best resource to build the car is this web sight along with the following sights. I've reached a point where I don't attempt to build the next step until reviewed the following... https://www.caterham7diaries.com/420r https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk https://www.tiggercaterham.co.uk https://purplemeanie.co.uk https://www.youtube.com/user/simonbennett3 https://www.youtube.com/@thecaterhamcave

Somehow, posting this makes me laugh and reminds me of why I’m having so much fun building my CAT. I’m using the 2.3 version of the build manual, and this relates to pages 68 through to and including page 73. I foolishly followed the instructions, and upon completion, realized something was wrong. I emailed Build Support, and Lee replied to my email by writing: === The radiator, oil cooler, and subsequently the oil pipes have all been revised, therefore the routing has changed which is yet to be reflected in the assembly guide. 39C059A – Rear sump union to bottom of oil tank (fit darker blue hose end to sump). 39C060A – Forward sump union to L/H/S of oil cooler. 3AE212A – Top of oil tank to R/H/S of oil cooler. No kinks will be present once installed in these positions. Kind regards, === I was alerted to this problem by BrettJ and his post from Jan 2, 2022. Thank you BrettJ. Not life threatening, not serious, but funny in a CAT kind of way. Hope this helps.

It is almost 2 years since this post and guess what - I just emailed CC about this very problem. Pity that I didn't check here first. Now I fear I have to redo these pipes. To make matters a bit more confusing...my 420SV is a LH/US based car. Lowndes - thank you for posting this.

AlastairA - your picture solved the problem. Caterham confirmed that I need the following 2 brackets: reference #s 580C0002B and 580C0004B. Thank you for your pictures! Jonathan - yes, I've read this. All I can say is...thank goodness for this forum for new members such as myself. This forum has solved countless problems for me.

AlastairA - just out of curiosity...does the part # on your radiator start with "300..." or "500..."

Perfect! Thanks. Now if only I can find them in the boxes...

Look at the following link...go to about the 8 minute mark and this should help... Caterham 420R Build - Handbrake, Gear lever, Catch Can, Expansion Bottle & Scuttle - Episode 6 Hope this helps.

Thank you. Were your adaptors straight or bent at 90 degrees? I found the adaptors that show in the instructions and that I can see on various blogs. However, it appears that I need something bent at 90 degrees? Any insights?

Hoping for some help. See the attached picture. You can see above the LH ARB that there is a vertical member. There are four of them where I am expecting to see the horizontal brackets. Does anyone know if CAT changed the mounting method? I have a dry sump setup, if that makes any difference. To confuse things, I think I was sent the wrong radiator. I was sent a 300C004A (45 cm wide) and the chassis mounts are 60 cm apart. Any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks. IMG_0826.HEIC

I'm about 1/3 of the way through building my 7 (420 SV). I average 10 hours a week... Two things are slowing me down...but making for a better build experience. 1. Pre fit everything. Tap out all holes. Hand tighten before torquing. I'm mechanical enough, but this is at a level I've never gone to before. By "measuring twice, cutting once" when I do finish a step, I'm in good shape for the next step. 2. Read/study blogs. I'm not sure which car you bought, but I have found the following blogs invaluable. https://www.caterham7diaries.com https://www.tiggercaterham.co.uk https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk And finally this - a friend how's an experienced mechanic said "...why rush, it will be there tomorrow. Happy building.