22daz

Call me old fashioned.. but I wouldn’t go near a pressurised brake bleeder. The thought of something popping off and spraying brake fluid around my car fills me with fear. I make my wife a cuppa and use the two man method. Doesn’t take too long to replace, initial fill may take slightly longer but certainly not as long as cleaning up brake fluid from everything! 22daz

Hi Mark, Not sure if this helps but have a quick check inside your number plate bulb holder. One of the wires on my car came loose and blew a fuse when in contact with the casing. It didn’t cut out, from memory the instruments didn’t light up and it wouldn’t start. I figured if you had the same thing it could trigger the immobiliser when it moved under acceleration and then earthed. However, I’m an electrical numpty so take what I say here with a pinch of salt.. But worthy of a look surely! 22daz

I have a Longacre too, it’s excellent and easy to use. Mine is 0-60psi £47 and worth every penny 22daz

Mine had been copiously glued on and no amount of twisting was removing it. I ended up carefully cutting it off with a Stanley knife and peeling it away. I believe the notch on the metal handbrake lever you’re left with requires filing slightly to get the new one on. It’s a while since I did mine! 22daz

SamC I just find that amazing! Top work. 22daz

That’s the right plug, I don’t bother with a new washer each time I check and wipe. It nips up quite nicely. You will need a 1” socket or spanner. They are advertised at 26mm but they aren’t.. because they’re from the US. 22daz

Doc, just a thought but how full are you running the dry sump tank? Mine is a Premier Power DS tank with a glass sight tube and it has to show as pretty full to get 6 litres out. You could quite easily run it 1.5 litres lower. It may be that you only had just over 4 litres in it? 22daz

Doc, I would definitely remove both driveshafts. For the effort involved and easy access to the De-dion ears it would make life much harder leaving one of them in-situ. Unbolting then lifting the whole diff sideways whilst underneath the car would be more trouble than removing the 4 ear bolts and calliper. The driveshaft would also need supporting if you left it in. I don’t remember the handbrake cables being too much of an issue. Just slacken the adjuster as much as possible and ensure it’s routed properly before you put the diff back in. I had to remove the centre console as the cable came off its little wheel behind the handbrake due to it requiring so much slack to pull the narrow part of cable through the slot in the diff. For what it costs I refreshed all the nuts and bolts, but it’s probably at least worth replacing the propshaft ones. 22daz

I replaced my diff for a Tracsport last year and found the whole process to be much easier than I’d anticipated. Remove the calliper and pads, cable tie up to the spring. Unbolt the shiny Dedion ears and slide the whole lot including driveshafts out as one without undoing the hubnut. ARB needs to be removed but that’s a 5min job. An impacter with long extension to remove the propshaft bolts is better than a socket, which will probably round them off. I’d also recommended removing the oil first. I took out the boot floor and supported the diff with a narrow ratchet strap on the roll bar for safety (not lifting) and using the same method it all went back into place fine without using a jig on top of the jack. Even the long top bolt slid through with just fingers although they often require more persuasion. My (BMW) diff has a cradle which I re-powder coated as it was peeling off in sheets. To space it evenly, put that in place first without the weight of the diff to check washers which I improved from what was there previously. I would advise doing that yourself rather than relying on someone else’s interpretation. It’s worth making a note of what comes out as your start point though. 4 pieces of masking tape with the number of washers written on it stuck to the bulkhead is useful. An afternoon is plenty of time to do this on your own. When you’ve done it once, it could probably be repeated in an hour or so on your own after initial prep. 22daz

I fitted a TTV to my 1.6k and at the time was £300 including delivery. Straightforward job to do yourself. Once the engine is out if you’re anything like me, you’ll be cleaning and changing other parts too whilst it’s easy. The difference was 7000g vs 3083g for the TTV. It was much more enjoyable to drive and loved to rev. I refitted the standard clutch as it still looked new but it did need some different size bolts for that. Worth taking the engine out just for this upgrade. 22daz

3.44kg for a Duratec according to Caterham 22daz

Mark, I did this job last year to fit a Tracsport. Other than an occasional CPW whirr under certain loads it has been superb. Absolutely no knocking and clunking even pulling out of tight junctions. I took the ears off the end of the Dedion and pulled the driveshafts out as a big lump leaving the Dedion ends bare. The propshaft bolts are thread locked in and that’s how I replaced them, but with new bolts. For me there was no chance of removing them with a socket and bar. The prop just wanted to move and I was concerned I’d just round them off making the job impossible. A Milwaukee impacter with a long extension to negate the angle took them off. I think it rattles the threadlock and breaks them loose. Quite a relief. 22daz

I did something similar, bought a new set thinking they were half worn then measured them against the fresh ones.. I'd only worn off 0.4mm and 0.9mm! 22daz

Have you checked the wires from the battery to the starter? My old K started fine but on inspection (when I had the engine out for something else) they run nearby the hot manifold and were crispy. Literally baked hard and snapped easily. I wonder if yours is similarly affected. 22daz

I have one and the tube diameter is different depending if it's for an S3 of SV. It's thicker on the SV. 22daz