ScottR400D Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Mark, when it comes to fitting the LEDs, which is fairly straightforward, the CC instruction video leaves out certain things (I think there's been a change in the kit not noted in the video) Also, the CC instructions involve drilling several new holes in the rear lower chassis rail and fastening the new loom on that rail, right in all the road crap. It can be fitted over the top of the fuel tank quite easily to avoid both those issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted September 24, 2021 Area Representative Share Posted September 24, 2021 Reading this thread I am having deja vu as all the discussion about diff out, in, what to & what not to employ has been gone over time & time again elsewhere in Tech Talk.I suppose a refresh is no bad thing......The statement that spring washers are totally useless & not worth using is up for debate. There is probably empirical evidence somewhere to back this up. From my experience a new spring washer is the best & cheapest option as this item will exhibit a good spring rate when flattened above that of a plain flat washer. Tension, expansion/contraction between joints especially those of dissimilar materials will be maintained especially under shock loads or expansion/contraction. Yes that opinion may be out of date but over time I have never seen a failure due to a spring washer only from incorrectly assembled components, incorrectly used fixings & incorrect torque loading.In aviation spring washers have largely been superseded with stiff nuts, lock washers, castellated nuts with split pins & other mechanical locking devices. But spring washers are still employed in tertiary areas. They do pop up in older aircraft, even on wheel hub assemblies.Hypothetically if a car were inspected for insurance purposes after an incident it could be deemed as incorrectly assembled if it was noted that spring washers were omitted from any assembly that required them as per factory spec ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Long Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 #74If Caterham fitted it, it is most likely to be a Quaife ATB, although this was around the time when changes were being made. I also thought R300 were open diffs at that time with the LSD as an option, so it really depends on the purchase and upgrade history of the car. If it 'ticks' when hot and being pushed, then it'll be the ATB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hence, is there a reliable way to identify what Diff is fitted to the various model years out there? With thanksChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 I've seen several failures of spring washers over the years, where they have broken and fallen off leaving a mounting somewhat loose.a couple of these have been on the lower wishbone front mount.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Brown Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 #79 I'm sure Jonathan will produce a link to a series of photos taken with the drive shafts removed that show which diff you have. Quite historic but am sure it appeared in a relatively recent Lowflying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 If you research spring washers you might come across:"Helical spring lock washers have been in use for well over 100 years. They are still used on many applications in the belief that they will will "lock" the nut/bolt to the joint and prevent loosening. The body of evidence, based upon both experience and experimental results, is that they do not prevent loosening and can be shown to actually speed up the rate of loosening in many cases. Junker originally showed in his work published in 1969 that these washers are ineffective in preventing loosening. Joints containing these washers have come loose resulting in structural failure leading to both material and human loss."You'll also come across articles that sing their praises and go to great lengths about how they work as springs etc to take up shockloads and expansion/contraction but just as many saying they only actually work, if at all, because the cut edges dig in to the nut and substrate and discourage turning! Who knows????!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Angus's web pag might be of interesthttp://www.mycaterham.com/66828/117416.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 #74 - If you drop Martin Phipps an email (Caterham archivist) with your chassis number, he can tell you what the original shipped unit was. Martin.Phipps@Caterham.com. He was really helpful when i asked about mine (Ford diff with Titan LSD for me) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted September 25, 2021 Area Representative Share Posted September 25, 2021 Broken spring washers are usually due to being re used - time & time again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GulfSeven Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 If I remove the long bolt to replace the washer on the other side, is there a risk things will shift and it'll be difficult to get back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 I would say there is, but you might get away with it. That part of the assembly doesn't line up too well and that bolt often (always?) needs a good whack with a hammer to get it through. Having said that it will probably pull back in line using the same method. If you remove it the diff will only be supported by the two lower bolts and it could move. As I said, you'd probably get it to go back in line but then you might have disturbed the two front bolts and they should be taken out and refitted! I'm not sure I'd go to that length at this stage, just change the nut and the washer at that end and keep an eye on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 ...just change the nut and the washer at that end and keep an eye on it. Agreed.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GulfSeven Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 LOL, I meant to post that on my thread here:https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/creaksqueak-coming-and-throttleLuckily I posted it on a diff thread where I still got the advice I needed. Haha!Thanks chaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 @ #84Thank you DanI'll drop Martin an email - much appreciated. Having gained input from Peter Scott and spoken to Ian at PT Sports Car (where I bought mine from), I'm expecting Martin to confirm that it has a Ford Diff Housing with ZF internals. Though based on its age I foresee a winter Diff rebuild for peace of mind. Hence looking forward to following Marks Blog Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 @ #90 No problem Chris. I have all sorts of noises and clattering coming from mine (3000 miles but apparently its ok?), so im considering a Tracsport, but ideally i need someone to get in there and make sure that its all adjusted properly first and then take it from there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Just ship your final drive to Steve @ SP Components and he will rebuild it correctly with a Tracsport LSD. all you need do is remove and refitt the final drive assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 @ #92 - Its the "All you need do is remove and refitt the final drive assembly" thats the problem ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Based on this pic from this afternoon - I'll also be removing my Diff this winter..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Feel free to shout if you need a willing apprentice Chris ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 And another one bites the dust..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 How many miles had that one done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 #96Peter, Which Diff Type is this. Appears I need to take mine out to establish what it is. So far Ive learnt that as its a Model Year 2010 R300D it could/should be a Titan, but Quaife has also been suggested. Guess there is only one way to find out :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Im watching with interest. Chris, how many miles has yours done ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 2015 420 Titan, about 10k miles. Bought from CC at 8k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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