Winter Project - Titan LSD project

[ChrisC]

I use a mityvac to drain the fluid from the caliper / lines, it's almost drip free to use.  Then just use the bungs that came with the original kit.

 

[aerobod - near CYYC]

Re #125, Mark, they should be the nylon "Race" washers, part number ZZ021463: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fixings-other/1438-nylon-racing-washer-shim-175-x-32-x-1.html?search_query=+ZZ021463&results=1

[Nigel B]

When I changed my LSD last year, I simply removed the callipers & cable tied them to the springs to keep them out of the way. I didn't disconnect the brake pipes from the callipers. There's sufficient flex in the pipes to be able to do this without putting a permanent bend in them. 

It was Peter Scott's suggestion (ScottR400D). He provided me with an invaluable step by step guide!

Good luck! 

 

[ScottR400D]

Hi Nigel! Mark is changing to flexible rear hoses so that's not much use to him!

As an aside I bought 10 30x17x1 nylon washers for just over £2 on eBay. Relieve the hole slightly with a small scraper and they do the job of the race washers perfectly. 

[Nigel B]

Haha, oops!  Read the whole thread Nigel! 

Thanks Peter, I was wondering why no one had suggested that. 

I swapped my brake lines for flexible hoses earlier this year. I guess there are pros & cons to that modification, but I think on balance it’s a good idea.

[CtrMint]

Thanks all, appreciate the comments trying to save me time.

I'm pulling the entire rear out, as I've also decided to upgrade the suspension too, so not just the brake lines. 

[CtrMint]

Drive shaft nuts, the ones which are handed should they be reused?  There is no signs of abnormal wear etc, but they are a heavy version of a nyloc?  So I'm wondering if they should be replaced. 

Thanks

[ScottR400D]

To be honest, at your car's age and mileage I'd have pulled the driveshafts with the nuts in place. 

Having said that, if you've removed them then I would say fit new ones. They're probably OK but they're a bit critical........

[CtrMint]

think I missed that option.  Pulling the ears off the dedion right?  that would have allowed the drive shaft nuts to stay in place?

Ahh well, will order them, £15 each isn't going to break the bank, and as you say they are a bit critical.

[ScottR400D]

Yes, that's right. As long as you don't need the disc off and you can be sure the bearings.are OK it's a good method. 

But as you say, they're not too expensive. 

[CtrMint]

I made some good progress this evening.   The offside driveshaft is now out, along with the ear and the brake assembly which I  removed from the dedion as one piece.   The driveshaft looks unmarked and in good condition, as do the bearing on the ear.  

The one thing I can't figure out is how to disconnect the handbrake cable from the brake assembly.  It's probably super simple, but I just couldn't unclip the rectangular eyelet from the hook on the brake.   Could someone point me in the in right direction please.

Thanks

[Dixa1225]

Have you slacken the cables of fully? 

[CtrMint]

yes, the brake assembly is free from the car itself, so I can move it towards the diff hanger releasing the tension etc.

[John Vine]

You'll need enough slack to pull the cable out of its housing on the caliper, then rotate the eyelet through 180 deg to free it from the clip.

Normally, you'd do this by unwinding the big white knurled adjustment nut where the cable disappears into the tunnel.

JV

[ScottR400D]

Still take a good pull on the eye of the cable as I remember it. Don't be afraid to lean on it. 
 

 

[CtrMint]

hmm, I guess I'm being too light, probably a bit more force is needed.

I Will be spending the entire day on it tomorrow, will give it another go.

Thanks

[CtrMint]

Guys,

I have the tunnel cover up, whats the best strategy for disconnecting the handbrake cable

Thanks

[ScottR400D]

IME the best strategy is to go under at the back, slacken the tensioner then just push the cable back from under there into the tunnel, to disengage from the diff bracket. No need to lift the tunnel. 

[John Vine]

The simplest way is to remove the split pin and clevis pin (#2 here):

Remember to cross the cable inner over when reassembling.

JV

[CtrMint]

Thanks both, ended up pulling the pin and removing the entire assembly.   I found the cable had a kink and damage to the plastic sheath.  To prevent an potential balance issue, I've opted to replace the cable.  As result the project has been delayed.

[CtrMint]

Quick update.

Old diff is out, drained and the back plate removed.  I've then wiped the diff internals down for inspection, though I openly admit I'm not sure what I'm looking for in terms of faults.  It certainly looks ok, i.e. nothing loose or broken.  The oil had an interesting finish to it, certainly some traces of metal, but nothing significant.  I've run a magnetic pick up tool through the oil and nothing notable.  I also put a magnetic parts tray under the drain pan, again nothing amazing.  I do admit I'm not really sure how the oil should really look.

I'll upload a slide deck to Youtube rather than spam images to here.  Would love to hear opinions.

It wasn't all good news though.  Removal of the shafts etc all went well, and once I committed to disassembling the handbrake assembly (thanks btw) I got the diff out with ease.  Unfortunately I found a nasty kink in the handbrake cable  and some heavy marring and compression on the plastic outer.  Not ideal, so I've very reluctantly opted to stop, and source a replace cable.  Very disappointing as I'd spent a long time preparing for this weekend, aim being to get the new diff in and the car built. 

I'm not sure why the damage occurred to the handbrake cable, I've never had any issues with it during use, and it was balanced during its Manx IVA.  Bit of a head scratcher.

 

 

[CtrMint]

Youtube based slides deck

[StevehS3]

Interesting you mention a kink in the handbrake cable. I have a imbalance problem with the drivers side being stronger. I removed the tunnel cover and found a nasty looking kink in the inner cable close to the pulley area. I plan to replace the cable over winter but wondered how it came about - to avoid the same thing happening to the new one. Does your cable cross over just after the pulley (to stop it scraping on each side of the chassis)?

 

[CtrMint]

Hey, Yep it crosses over too.  Your location sounds very similar too, sort of helpful to know it's not something isolated to my car and possibly something daft that I've done.

[CtrMint]

CC parcel arrived this week.  New handbrake cable and the 5 speed gearbox spacer.  Not sure if I will be inclined to work on the 420R this weekend.  I did tell myself to take my time over the process and enjoy it.  It's pretty cool too, reminds me of my original build.