Jacking points - for the regular engine removers

[CharlesElliott]

I normally jack my car at the front by the cruicifix and then use axle stands on the wishbones close to the body of the car. However, when it comes to yearly engine out time I always struggle because axle stands there obstruct the engine crane legs. If I try and put the axle stands closer together (inboard of the wishbones) they foul on the jack.

 

So....if you are removing the engine, where do you jack your car and where do you put the axle stand(s) whilst you are doing it?

[Molecular--Bob]

Leave the wheels on?

[CharlesElliott]

Yes, wheels are on but I prefer the car off the ground.

[Mankee]

I've only removed and refitted my engine once, but I did all the legwork with the car on axle stands in the usual places and then put it back on the deck but with the wheels on some concrete slabs I had kicking around to give enough clearance for the engine crane legs. I found a load leveller to be extremely useful, especially if going solo and pulling the box out at the same time.

[mav]

Jack from the towing eye Charles. That will solve your jack / stand interference.

[DaveMorris]

Always wheels on , but raised ~50mm on wooden blocks to provide engine crane with sufficient clearance,

Dave

[Englishmaninwales]

As Mav and Dave Morris. IMO not good practice to jack on the central crucifix.

[SLR No.77]

If the legs of the engine crane will fit under the lower wishbones don't use axle stands or anything else - there's an advantage in being able to move the car forwards or backwards a little if needed during engine installation/removal.

 

Stu.

[johnv]

Quoting Englishmaninwales: 

IMO not good practice to jack on the central crucifix.

 

😳 that's where they told us to jack up the front on the GTKYC day!

[Grubbster]

I use axle stands with a small footprint (bought years ago for about a tenner from Screwfix), the jack goes in between them no problem. You can see the type about halfway down this page

[CharlesElliott]

Crucifix: I've always jacked there, as do 90% of the 100 racers I race with. I understand the reasons why it might not be a good idea, but I'm going to keep doing it.

 

Jack on towing eye: Yes, will definitely work, I've always thought that worse than jacking on the crucifix due to twisting, but it is probably fine.

 

Put it on the ground: Definitely an option too, I'm pretty sure my crane legs will go under the front wishbones.

 

Anyway, at least two options there, thanks.

 

Surprised by how quickly I was ready to pull it out. Coolant out, both fuel pipes undone, manifold unbolted, gear lever our, gear mount undone, release Apollo tank and lift up, undo electrical cables, undo engine mounts and ready to go...

 

[Andy Doughty]

A nice piece of 4x4 timber with bits of carpet to protect the bottom skin and postion it in line with the engine mounts. Then axal stands outboard of the bodywork.

[Englishmaninwales]

Quoting johnv: 

Quoting Englishmaninwales: 

IMO not good practice to jack on the central crucifix.

 

😳 that's where they told us to jack up the front on the GTKYC day!

 

That doesn't necessarily make it good practice. As I said...IMO *smile*

[Johnty Lyons]

The original build manual from Caterham with my 97 Series3 warns you NOT to jack the front of the car under the cruiciform.I understand that has always been the position and the car is supposed to be lifted by jacking under the towing eye.

[Jonathan Kay]

There's a comment above about concrete blocks. I'm sure everyone on BC already knows the advice about never getting under a car supported on concrete (or similar) blocks, bricks etc.

 

Here's the club FAQ on jacking

 

I use the towing eye.

 

Jonathan

[Jason Plato]

once you have jacked it up - by what ever means, to avoid the legs of the engine crane clashing with the 2 axle stands its easier to use one axle stand under the cruxifix but **** with a section of sturdy timber 2" x 4" across the chassis and side rails

[TomB]

So why shoulnt we jack under the crucifix, prior to positioning on axle stands under the front of the car? I must admit Ive always jacked on the cross member, with a bit of rubber or carpet to protect the powder coat.

[SLR No.77]

Because it's not strong enough and will deform upwards and eventually crack .... especially if you have one of those lardy VX boat anchor thingies 😬

 

Stu.

[TomB]

I see - that contradicts the FAQ, and possibly (although Im yet to check being at work and all that ) tha manual.

[CharlesElliott]

Mine don't last long enough to crack 😬

[Johnty Lyons]

The tubes running across the front of the car are all fitted in compression to hold the two sides of the chassis apart in exactly the correct position. There are a mumber of diaganol braces between the top and bottom chassis rails to give them rigidity it is to the lower offside rail that the towing eye is fitted. Jacking under the cruciform has a tendancy to try and flex those thin tubes and will eventually cause cracking where they are welded/brazed ( depends on age of car) as they are NOT strong enough to carry the full weight of car and engine. Probably not easy to follow but look at a chassis diagram on Caterhams web sit and it should be clear.

WTF the club has them listed on ite FAQ page for I have no idea BUT they are Wrong.

[Johnty Lyons]

Tomb you've obviously got a diferent manual from me. 😬

[CharlesElliott]

Engine and gearbox out 😬

[charlie_pank]

:I jack up the front and slide ramps under each of the front wheels (one pointing forwards, one pointing backwards - so it can't roll off), then lower the car down onto the ramps. Gives ample room for the crane. I can actually just get the crane legs under the body with the car at normal height, so I use the crane and a couple of bits of climbing rope to do the 'jacking' too.

[RS2000]

My GTKY7 showed front jacking at tow point, then axle stand support under crucifix, but leaving jack in place - photos from the day here:

here - photos 11 and 12