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my 1st 7 build


pug7

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2 weeks to go.....

 

So bit of help request - dinitrol I assume its the 3125 that people plaster the car in - how much is req ? 1 litre be enough or 2 ltrs be better ?

 

Whats the factory finish like underneath the car does it need coating with anything to stop stones/chips/corrosion etc ?

 

I read somewhere about sticking sheets of rubber under wheel arches to stop the star shaped chips from stones in the fibre glass - any one done this or suggetions on the rubber/glue to do that ?

 

Any recommendations for heat proofing the footwell on an SV ? seems to be a few comments of it getting hot around the feet.

 

seatbelts - dont want the standard inertia reel - are the caterhan quick release 4 point any good or any other suggestions ?

 

Thanks for suggetions in advance.

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Things I should of done in the begining.

 

My biggest regret was not covering the car immediately after it was built with paint protection film.

 

After three years I have now had the car tidied up and applied the film. Expensive lesson if you want to keep the paintwork in good condition.

 

Another related tip is don't always follow others when out on a blat (take the lead 😬), this is how the car gets peppered the most with stones flicked up by the sticky tyres in front.

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Stone chips are just patina.....don't worry about it!

Wear your scars with pride - they show you are living life to the full, not whimping out.

 

Living life on the edge will always leave its mark - and I love it!

 

😬 😬 😬

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Hi Pug 7, late entrant I know but I've been away.

Lots of good advice from the guys. I may be near you (I'm near Macc in Cheshire) if you want to have a look at things in the flesh. My second build (Roadsport 175) is in my garage, although not running too well at the moment...

Jules

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It should come with the heatproofing already fitted. For rear wings Isoflex roofing goo from B+Q. Couple of coats, jobs good. Dont forget the tools they dont tell you about - 14mm allen key (to cut down) for the diff filler plug, 6mm ball ended allen socket for front damper top mounts, oh and the gearbox filler plug - cut down the 10mm allen key per the guide but use the offcut with a 10mm spanner and ditch the big bit - there really is f all space, filled mine today (didn't realise it would take so long to fill).

Enjoy *wavey*

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Just remembered, when you get to the rear flexible brake hose, it fits the same as the front ones ie only put plain washer one side with shakeproof the other. This is incorrectly described in the brand new 05/12 manual - gave CC the feedback today!!

*mad*

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Last few bits then - high density foam rip tied to the axle stands to protect the powder coat on the chassis. Loads of wide masking tape to stick the cardboard all over the body work to protect your paint work and to put all around the front suspension holes. Foam pipe insulation for the engine bay to protect all the lovely black tube work - old sheets to cover it all up when you are not working on it.

Finally - dependng on your age - you may want some soft flooring or thick faom kneeling pads for those hours you will spend knelt down!!

All the best - be sure to let us know when it arrives.

*wavey*

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Garry,

 

All those bits you list - done,bought,here etc courtesy to the heads up pointers from other posters. Garaged cleared floor lovely coat of epoxy battleship grey, 4 axle stands there just seems to be missing something - oh yeah a 7 chassis die to delays in the paint shop at caterham so an extra week to wait due to work i carnt be home this week.

not long i guess though....

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24hrs to go.... I hope the caterham truck ends up in the spotted section heading up the m6.......

 

Not really the weather, but I guess the first job is dinitrol apart from the obvious like dont put it on the paintwork, any points in particular to give a good coating before i start bolting bits on ? (sod the weather, ive been waiting too long for the 7 to arrive!!)

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Well officially an owner at last 😬 😬. Seem to be a lot of parts and boxes all over the garage most seems to be there except the obvious - a build manual would of been useful ! phone call in the morning time....
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Sean will be your new best friend for several weeks, you will call him almost on a daily basis.

 

Enjoy the build, feel free to ask anything on here.

 

Good luck

 

Edited by - Domus on 28 May 2012 22:35:18

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If you can't wait, the.manual and the IVA guide are both downloadable from the caterham web site.

 

Regards

Mark

 

Ps had my post build check today so it's all still very fresh in my mind. One tip, go out tomorrow and give the diff a good kicking. You will feel better later!

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The diff doesn't have to be that hard a job to put in. I've had mine in and out so many times in the last 2 years. Just remember a few things:

 

1. You can't get the propshaft into the tunnel if one end is blocked by the gearbox and the other end is blocked by the diff, so you have to slide it in before you put them both in place.

 

2. You can lift the diff up on a trolley jack, then slide a screwdriver through the mountings to hold it in place, then remove them one by one as you replace them with bolts.

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Quoting charlie_pank: 

1. You can't get the propshaft into the tunnel if one end is blocked by the gearbox and the other end is blocked by the diff, so you have to slide it in before you put them both in place.

 

Not quite correct. In my experience you can only get the propshaft in from the rear (diff end). so put propshaft in the transmission tunnel before you fit the diff. You can't get it in from gearbox end. *thumbup*

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