charlie_pank Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Fair enough, it's not a problem I have with my current installation, so I was guessing a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Hi Guys help again. I see a lot use sikaflex to hold the front wings - what sort of sikaflex do you recommend seems to be a number of varying part numbers ? also how are they held on - bigfeet mentioned - where from which variety etc ? Thanks - diff time now .....but propshaft first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Diff instructions The wotsits for the front wings are big heads - there are a variety of different types, but they aren't necessary - I think a lot of people rub down the stays, coat them in sikaflex, rub down the underside of the wings, add sikaflex, then stick the two together and tape in place so they don't move. A search will get you the number. I used bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted June 6, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted June 6, 2012 Pug7, Most PU sealant/adheasives work well enough. I've used Sikaflex (like this here) or Tiger Seal here, however any other polyurethane sealant/adheasive will do the job. It's the preparation that is important. I normally roughen the surface of the wing stay, breaking through to the metal. I'd also roughen the under side of the wings and ensure that there is no grease or dust on either the wing or stay. I would then put a series of blobs of sealant onto the stay, and then place the wing onto the blobs. Then I'd position the wing centraly over the tyre and use masking tape between the wing and tyre to hold the wing in place. Leave overnight, and then remove the wheel. Apply a generous fillet either side of the stay, and with a gloved handform a smooth fillet that spreads well onto the wing and wraps around the stay. I've never had a wing come off despite thwacking cones quite hard on track Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juleslid Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Pug7, just dug out the sealant I used in my build 2 years ago, it appears to Siroflex Polyflex HM. Got it from Cat Mids, but sure someone on the interweb will send you one in return for a piece of silver. The prep described by Richard should all help, mine are yet to fall off. Personal preference, but I covered the underside of my front and rear wings (after they were fitted) with rubbery underseal to help protect the fibreglass from stone damage. For the IVA the leading edge of the mudguard must not be behind the front of the tyre. And the outside of it must obviously go at least as far as the edge of the tyre. Can't remember if I said this before, but if your bit of Cheshire isn't too far from Macc then you're welcome to have a look over my 2 year old. Roadsport 175 SV that is! Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 diff in. diff up andin with lower bolts and shimmed 1hr. upper bolt - 5hrs with trolley jack, hoist, ground down bolts...just glad no matches around or od of been an ex 7 owner ! i hope the rest goes easier ....... and thanks for the advice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted June 6, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted June 6, 2012 Thats about how long it took me to get mine in - I think the carriers for the new BMW diffs are about a mil out corner to corner. I had exactly the same experience as you - if it's any consolation, that was by far the most difficult/frustrating bit of my build everything else was straight forward after that. Did you put the handbrake cable in first...................................? If not I know a way of getting it to fit (SV?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 You can see why I suggested giving a good kicking first. Another useful tip, once you have popped out the flanges then fill the diff with oil. Pop the half shafts in if you want, but you don't need to. The BMW diff will take its proper fill of oil without it coming out the sides. I verified this by then pulling the half shafts back out ( which you have to do anyway when you build up the dedion) and no oil came out. Filling now stops lots of faffing about later when the rear is all built up. Either make a funnel and tube up to fill it, which you will need to fill the gearbox anyway (plus a piece of dowel), or you can get for about £15 a draper large metal oil syringe (500ml) and just squirt it in. Regards Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 thanks pugwash for those hints. had i not been in flip flops on your first mention and knowing how bad it would be id of kicked it down the drive ! the upper holes were about 3mm out ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted June 7, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted June 7, 2012 *arrowup* So wish I had done that before the dedion tube went in!! Also saves cutting down your 14mm Allen key. Couldnt believe how long it took to fill the gearbox with the thin tube bent through a right angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Gearbox oil is very thick at room temp so I warmed up the container in a bucket of hot water & it ran down the tube much quicker Still a pig of a job & I hate checking the gear box oil level, seem to end up with more running down my arm I only check it every other year now as there are no drips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Just to add....assuming there are grease nipples on your UJ's at either end of the prop shaft don't forget to grease them up. Again can be awkward under the car, so now when mine goes in for an MOT I slip the tester a drink & he greases them thoroughly while it's up on the lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Quoting juleslid: For the IVA the leading edge of the mudguard must not be behind the front of the tyre. I don't think that's quite correct. CC's advice is that the leading edge should be in front of the wheel (not the tyre), as illustrated in Step 20 of the CC IVA Guide. Oddly, there's no reference to this requirement in the applicable VOSA IVA Inspection Manual. Section 37 therein merely states that The wheel guard must extend at least 30 degrees from the centre of the wheel to the front. Whether that amounts to the same thing I guess depends on tyre profile, and how far the wing is from the tyre. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted June 7, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted June 7, 2012 Just waved mine off yesterday for its trip to CC for PBC and IVA so cannot check the exact position of the cycle wings vs the front wheels. I lined mine up using the CC applied drill markings (if you were going to bolt them on) - I am sure that JV is right, mine definitely did not go as far forward as the leading edge of the tyre though (using the CC markings). I used the rip tie type of big heads, bonded on with Sikaflex 291 (From East Coast Fibreglass Supplies). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 thanks for info garry. trying to sort out the back suspension but cannot find the bag 30A001A... Sean at caterham on speed dial in the morning.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 I bolted my cycle wings on coz i am old fashioned. They did not come marked with places to drill but if you ask Sean he will send you a nice picture with the drill points measured from the front edge which may answer your how far forward question. Gearbox filling is straight forward if you do it from above. Some clear pipe taped along a piece of long thin wood with funnel taped on. Bend 2 to 3 inches at right angle on the end and then lower from above down to the gearbox and poke the right angle bit into the filler hole. Warm oil. Pour slowly. Mine took a fair amount less than the manual said. Comment above about using a cut off piece of the allen key and a ratchet spanner was spot on for me. Couple of other things not in the manual. Loctite the bolts - propshaft to diff. The flexible brake hose needs one less washer than it says in the manual or it will not tighten up properly. Applies to the front two as well. Both tips from Sean. Regards Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted June 8, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted June 8, 2012 Did you have the B pack? Hopefully Sean sent you the A sheet to enable you to identify the correct parts? ISTR that I needed Sean to send me some extra nuts to secure the rear watts linkage mountings through the body though. Do you have a rear anti roll bar? If so, those little orange bushes really do fit - leave in boiling water for 5 mins, secure the bar in a vice or similar, lots of lube, thick pair of gloves to save fingers when you slip, and push really hard!! For the A frame - you need 5 washers each side to start suggest a dab of grease to hold them together, then add spacers to centre it up - I lost count of the number of times they all fell in my face when sorting this lot out - live and learn! Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 the oricle sean sorted me just 1 bolt short, i dont seem to have rear anti roll bar or watts links. As for A frame 3 washers each side, within 0.5 mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted June 9, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted June 9, 2012 Result Do you have radius arms then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 yup got radius arms currently held with temp bolts till the replacements arrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Near the end ! Anyways couple of questions for the blat chat experts. Grommets for the wires on headlamps/indicators. Do they have to be fitted as proving to be nightmare to fit them ? or is it acceptable to seal them into the holes with silicone or sikaflex instead ? (its going for iva at nottingham) bonnet fit - is it worth it or needed to fit some sponge or similiar where the bonnet fits onto the rest of the car to stop it chafing around ? thanks guys ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Can't help re the grommets (I used cable sleeving pushed into the hole in the headlight mount -- but my car was SVA'd rather than IVA'd). Re bonnet fit, I used some of this on the rear edge of the nosecone, over the leading edge of the scuttle, and along the top of each chassis rail. IMO, it's worth it to stop rattles and protect paintwork. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Grommets for the wires on headlamps/indicators. Do they have to be fitted as proving to be nightmare to fit them ? or is it acceptable to seal them into the holes with silicone or sikaflex instead ? (its going for iva at nottingham) bonnet fit - is it worth it or needed to fit some sponge or similiar where the bonnet fits onto the rest of the car to stop it chafing around ? Unfortunately the grommets are required for IVA. I found it a nightmare with the plastic ones supplied by Caterham, but when I bought a selection of proper rubber ones from Halfords the job became much easier! My car has wide thin foam strip on the nose cone and a narrow thicker strip on the front of the scuttle, but nothing along the chassis rails. Hope this helps Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted July 9, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9, 2012 Mine came back from PBC with the foam fitted to the nose cone (by CC). Have since added similar along the chassis rails where the bonnet rests, having found some scratching already. Cut the grommet in half and glue it carefully in place, to look like its fitted? for using the Halfords ones in place of those supplied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irrotational Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I don't want to worry you but aren't nottingham the awkward one? Vaguely remember a thread awhile ago about it...but may well be mistaken... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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