pug7

Thanks all some great leads, will look into motor bike cable maybe I can future proof it for any issues further down the line as it ages, or maybe I just build another car...with more umph under the bonnet.

I have a 7 with a sigma 140 engine. On the throttle cable at the pedal end two strands have snapped so the inevitable carnt be far off. Caterham don't stock new cables nor can I track one down anywhere, anyone any solutions? Alternatively anyone know if you can get a new inner with the fitting for the throttle body and a solution to other end to the peddle? I was thinking along the lines of a push bike brake cable but obviously need 2mm cable ... thanks in advance !

I have a 7 with a sigma 140 engine. On the throttle cable at the pedal end two strands have snapped so the inevitable carnt be far off. Caterham don't stock new cables nor can I track one down anywhere, anyone any solutions? Alternatively anyone know if you can get a new inner with the fitting for the throttle body and a solution to other end to the peddle? I was thinking along the lines of a push bike brake cable but obviously need 2mm cable ... thanks in advance !

spotted you in the car park at grasmere...

Following me in my 7 for miles and miles around Derbyshire from Matlock to ladybower and onwards.....even parked up next to me when I stopped for lunch

spotted you in Nantwich this morning 6/5/17 around 1230. you must be local to me, but you didn't wave back haha

yup done that one, i have two white wires to the ignition switch, the blog is for one that has no white wires. i seem to have two white wires onto one pin of the ignition barrel, and also a white and white/red together on the ignition barrel and a brown with a brown/blue together so 3 sets of paired connections...

Thanks Jonathan. It's not so much what's in the car as what should be connected to the bms as all I have is a switch in a box an no clues at all. I've tried the how to section on here, and google searches, but they all seem to mention disconnecting two brown wires from the battery +vet connect them together to the bms with new lead, the only brown one I can find is on the starter solenoid with the main +be from the battery so it may as well stay put. It's an may 2012 7SV 1.6 sigma 125jp tweaked by caterham to 140 hp it's just the big standard dash I didn't ask for anything so whatever it came with, I've got the standard wiring diagram from the caterham build, that shows battery master switch as just a small circle with its label and WP187 and 40 next to it, with only one wire with 250 on it. im happy to take the main +ve off the battery and connect to one side of the bms and the new lead from bms to battery. I think the resister goes terminal 1 on bms to chassis. But I'm not sure what if anything needs connecting, I think the two white leads need to come off the ignition switch to on every of the bms terminals but not 100% sure which one, nor I'm 100% sure that's it. I just don't want to risk blowing the alternator etc...shame caterham backup is useless selling stuff with no diagrams etc. Yes I'm chasing them but no info so far just want to get the car modified.

has anyone fitted a battery master switch recently to a sigma powered 7? Nothing in the manual about what wires where, and the guide under how to doesn't tie in to my cars wiring either. the main terminals in the BMS is straight forward one to the battery other to starter solenoid. I've no other wires to the battery +ve (how to guide says there's brown wires to it), on the bms there's 4 spade fittings two marked with a 1 and 2 marked with a 2. Anyone any clues what should go where? The kit on the caterham site shows four new coloured wires white brown black green hut no clues as to where they should connect and the resistor which goes from the bms to chassis, any clues be great ! My ignition has a white + white/ red together, a red , a white/green, brown + brown blue together and two whites together.

pm sent doc007.

Mail sent ref cover

PM sent Martin

Thanks for all the leads, especially Richard ;). It passed first go so we're good to go for another year. :)

Thanks Richard

My first MOT is due end of the month. Does anyone know any Caterham friendly gargages in the south cheshire Crewe/Nantwich/Stoke areas ? or not too far a drive from that area ? Any reccomendations greatlfully received.

Well disconnected Ecu, map sensor and throttle body sensor left it for while, refitted ecu power on fro bit then off, connected map sensor powered it up and off same with throttle body. Then tried starting....ran perfect. Who needs factory support with blat chat, thanks chaps just a shame it's monsoon weather so it's not gone out the garage.....

Thanks for the ideas. I'm out the country too but will have a look when I'm back home next week

Anyone any suggestions for my 140 sigma idling? When cold, idle drops to about 800 rpm then goes upto 2000 ish over around 1/2 second, then drops down to 800 over 2-3 seconds ands repeats. When it's warm idle is about 2000, if I adjust idle when warm to more sensible 1000 ish, won't idle cold just stops. Anyone any ideas?

Surely self lubricating would be the best??.... 😬

Eat more food/beer? Then the slack will be taken up and problem solved 😬

Greg's, it goes with the 2 lugs downwards...if you look at the panel it's rectangular with a couple of lugs at the corners on one edge they go down to blow the air round your feet. If it makes sense? Once you bolt it in the panel should have a slight overlay do wards either side of the tunnel ie there's an open vent on the back maybe inch wide half inch high.

Thanks Richard. On packet for the last replacement is EMP40-1, on the sensor is XS108B3NAL2 from the web best is about £55 inc postage but there with 2m lead, and no one has any stock so might try Caterham later see if they have stock. No damage to the sensor at all still had 2mm ish gap, tried closer and further but the led in back just doesn't want to come on hence thinking my second sensor failure in 13 months ☹️ only damage I can see is on the wire itself where I've had a Ty wrap a bit tight by look of it. Might try cutting that bit out and splicing it prior to ringing Caterham for new one. Other than that the Tom Tom will have to double as a speedo for now 😬 just odd I've had 2 fail already.

It's the sensor by rear wheel the one next to the serrated wheel on hub so no moving parts only the built in led that doesn't light up or flash regardless of distance from the serrated wheel so not sure how you mean about mechanically? As to whether hall type not a clue what your talking about I'm afraid M 😬 Caterham part number is EMP40-1 it's a tad annoying car only went on the road last August and sensor already been replaced once ☹️

Had the 7 out on Xmas day for a cold blast round south Cheshire, speedo did some erratic needle movements then went to zero ☹️ (see tech question!) and a lovely 3 rotation pirouette due to an enthusiastic right turn at traffic light junction...ended up on wrong side of the road both back wheels against the curb facing the opposite curb 😬 good jobs roads were quiet.....

Out in the 7 yesterday all going well ( except the 2.75 spin during too much right boot doing right turn at traffic lights 😬 ) and the speedo flickered a few times and settled on zero. Just had the car up wheel off with ignition on turnings he hub produced no light on the sensor tried closer and further away but nothing there's a 12v positive and earth on 2 of the pins on the car side of the connector to sensor assume the 3rd feeds back to speedo. Anyone know if there's a way to test the sensor with a meter? Or know of a cheap replacement supplier Caterham want 63£ seems a lot for small sensor? In mean time driving on the sat nav for speed but the plus being no miles going on the clock