Titanium7

Apologies for the images being on their sides, not sure why or how to correct. New and unused, still with stickers on and original box and contents. Size 60 (Large). Purchased but never used. Price was over £400. £310 inc. courier delivery (UK only) The Sport 5 combines classic Bell styling with a large eyeport for the racer who demands quality at an affordable price. The all-purpose Sport delivers value without compromising on features including a lightweight composite shell, standard size eyeport, full ventilation and outstanding fit. FIA 8859-2015 Approved Lightweight GRPShell Efficient Ventilation System

I looked at these but it was touch and go whether they would close enough to lift the 13" wheels so bought the simple skates instead.

Yes I've recently bought a set from SGS and they work fine as long as your floor is reasonably flat. SGS

I've had this type of thing on my LR Defender for several years. I believe it's made by Optimill. Well engineered and strong. i personally like the Rapfix solution for no wear and ease of use.

I've seen figures around 85Kg dry.

Yes still connected. Also left the original stat in place after cutting out the centre bulb and spring etc., this is because of the outer rubber seal needs to be still used. The additional hoses and connectors were standard generic ones off eBay, just a 'T' and a straight connector is all you need. The system worked a treat and kept the temp whilst the car was moving locked at 80C, never had an airlock again. One tip, buy the genuine PRT not the cheaper after market one.

Mark and Igor Just thinking ahead for the possibility of some kits being made up if that's what you are suggesting. I for one would be interested in having one. Some thoughts on keeping the costs down! On obtaining the modified thermostat housing, would it be possible to send in on a swap basis our existing ones on a one for one basis. This would negate the need for purchasing new ones from CC. Also I don't think I've seen how the modified rear water exit unit was arrived at, was it a new purchase at around £92 or was the existing one modified to get the additional outlet? Again if it was the original modified could we again work on and exchange basis? Regards Martyn

*You did take the original stat out didn't you Mark?

Yes I suspect that's all it is.

As mine is still under warranty Oakmere has got agreement from Caterham to look at the overcooling so it's in there this morning. Here is the typical indicated temperature when running at 3000 revs with the ambient temperature around 15C. When you stop at traffic lights it shoots up to 90C when the fan kicks in and then drops again to 50C when you start motoring again.

Same 82C stat at a better price. Rimmer Brothers

The PRRT plumbing is simple and very effective, also the QED remote stat system (have never used this). I've installed the PRRT system on two high power K Series cars and on both occasions it's sorted the issues out. Here's it on the R500

The PRRT plumbing is simple and very effective, also the QED remote stat system (have never used this). I've installed the PRRT system on two high power K Series cars and on both occasions it's sorted the issues out. Here it is on the R500

Just back from Oakmere following the first 1000m service. I asked to investigate two things. 1. The 'Rev Hanging' when changing gear. Response was it was the Supercharger air induction still under pressure as there is no dump valve. (Not sure about this, I have a theory it might be in the mapping to burn up unused fuel) 2. The Over cooling. It was sitting at an indicated 50C at 3000rpm all the way there and only rising when at traffic lights. Response was the thermostat was constantly open or, there was no thermostat! They are contacting CC for permission to investigate further under warranty.

It was mine that read really low but that was when it was quite cold ambient temperatures. Now in the heat it's around the 55-60C. Could be a poor gauge or sensor. With the rad 1/3rd blocked its running between 70-90C in the current heatwave. 90C on the gauge is where my fan cut in. It's going into Oakmere next week so I will ask them to investigate.

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The annual Spring romp round Snowdonia April 2013!

Well I have my temporary Summer solution to the overcooling. With a bit of experimentation I have arrived at a cut shaped sheet of 3mm Plastazote (Foamboard) tie wrapped to the back of the grill that now holds the temperature of the coolant between 75C and 90C (displayed on the standard CC fitted gauge) at where the Fan kicks in (90C). Not sure what the oil temperature is doing as the number plate mostly covers the cooler. Something to investigate.

Yes I would agree with you Mark.

Here is an image of the 16mm Heater/Expansion bottle pipe running to the block above and I assume behind the thermostat contained in the bespoke billet thermostat housing.

Found this from SBD Motorsport. I find the second paragraph quite interesting as it may be the cooling strategy Caterham originally used although they also don't use the bypass hose. The cooling system shown is the design as used by SBD Motorsport, when using a mechanical water pump. The most important part of the cooling system is the orange recirculation pipe. When the thermostat is shut, the coolant passes through the engine, reaches the closed thermostat, the coolant flow is then directed through the front of the cylinder head to the water outlet on the underside of the inlet manifold and the coolant is then drawn back in to the engine by the water pump. This keeps the coolant flowing through the engine maintaining an even temperature. As the temperature rises within the engine, the thermostat slowly opens allowing the coolant to pass into the main cooling system to the radiator. The thermostat is a 2-part stat and as the thermostat slowly opens, the second part of the stat begins to slowly close the entry into the recirculation part of the cooling system and as the temperature begins to fall again, the thermostat begins to slowly shut. This maintains an even temperature throughout the engine. Important Note: Some engines used in specific race car championships (Formula 3, etc) do not use thermostats. They carry out extensive testing, design the radiators and cooling system around their design and quite often change the water pump design and even on occasions use restrictors. This is not something recommended for a single user. If you get your cooling system design wrong, the water could flow too fast or too slow causing hot and cold spots within the engine, creating damage to the engine itself. In many cases this problem may not be visible straight away and may become more apparent over long periods of time. We do not recommend this set up. The most common mistake when designing a cooling system is to misunderstand the flow of the cooling system itself. The mistake normally made is when connecting one of the following: the header tank outlet (green), the heater outlet (red) and the recirculation outlet (orange). These pipes must separately be fed into the blue water pipe shown flowing from the radiator outlet and going towards the back of the water pump. DO NOT attempt to T any of the pipes together, this will completely destroy the water flow causing a major problem with your cooling system.

I've just checked mine and yes there's a downward facing spigot which looks like it could be drilled and tapped.

There's currently no provision built into or onto the engine at the the outlet or Inlet end for a bypass pipe.

Will amend the diagram, it was rather rushed.