K series and Type 9 gearbox oilchange

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terryfield
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K series and Type 9 gearbox oilchange

In trying to resolve the stiff gearchange issues it look as though I may have to change the gearbox oil.  Given that there is no bottom drain plug, are there any tips for the best way to remove the old oil?

Also, the clutch bite point is a bit higher than I would like. Is adjustment an easy option?

Thanks

jonsymons
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Terry - re the oil, I used a Sealey Oil Suction Syringe to get out what I could and then used it as a funnel to pour in fresh oil tryin to get the hose down to the bottom - and kept going until what was coming out of the fill hole on the gearbox was clean oil. Bowl/rags at the ready. Not sure if that's the approved method but seemed to work...

Wrightpayne
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Some have reported getting a pipe into the filler hole and using a syringe (machine mart sell a transmission syringe).

Others have taken the cover off and used a pela pump / syringe. Its a bit fiddly down the tunnel and important to get the big selector tab back into the slot in the cover plate.

A while ago there was also an article from a fellow sevener who fitted a brass plumbing fitting into the lid to make a dipstick hole positioned to aid filling and future oil extraction - do a search of blatchat as it was described with photos (might have been in low flying!) 

 

Ian

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terryfield
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Jon, Did you go in through the top cover, of through the overflow hole? Sounds like a feasible approach.

 

 

Terry7

SM25T
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Did you try lubricating the bearing the gear lever passes through ? If a cable clutch, easy to adjust cable position.
terryfield
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18 months on from buying my car (1.8 K, Type 9, 5 speed) I am still not happy with the gearchange. It just seems too clunky and heavy for fast driving, and not what I would expect from a 'fast' car. Typically third to fourth takes a real pull, and going down from third to second is so slow that I lose all the revs. It also seem to get worse after a long drive - 160 miles today and by the end it was just plain hard work to change gear. My only comparison is with my previous 1700 X Flow which had such a light and responsive gear change that it was a delight to drive. That particular box was built by BHG (Brian) and I would really like him to do the same with this one (apart from the fact that we are now about 200 miles apart!)

I intend to have a chat to my local Somerset group, Simon Houghton et al, and maybe get one of them to drive the car to see what their opinion is.

In the interim, I am going to change the oil to see if that makes a difference, and I was wondering which oil you good folks would recommend. I already have a big syringe, but a methodology statement for an oil change would also help.

All thoughts and comments welcomed!

Terry7

Tazio
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Redline MTL 

SLR No.77
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Before going the trouble of changing the oil (and standard Ford GL4 should work fine in the 5sp type 9), it's worth checking that the gear stick mechanism is okay. It's been mentioned about lubricating the bearing, but also the pivot point can be adjusted to fine tune the shift ... if you take out the gearstick by removing the three bolts the half of the pivot that is attached the gearstick can be knocked up or down the stick a little, it's an interference fit. Very small adjustment can transform the shift.

Stu.

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terryfield
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Hi Stu,

When I bought the car 18 months ago, the gearchange was really hard. It turned out that the rose joint in the stick was very stiff. The dealer gave me a new gearstick assembly which was much looser and that made a bit of a difference, but not enough. At the time of changing the assembly I also changed the nylon saddle. The two gear assemblies were a bit different, the later one having a deeper 'collar' where it locates into the top of the gearbox. The attached picture shows the deeper collar on the gear assembly on the right hand side.

I am not sure what you mean by the pivot assembly, and I don't feel confident about bashing the gearstick around without fully understanding what I am doing. Which part do I move, how far, and how hard do I hit an interference fit?

It is the fact that I have had the same problem with both gearstick assemblies which leads me to suspect the 'box. Changing the oil seems like a cheap fix to see if anything improves before I try anything more radical / expensive.

 

 

Terry7

Beagler
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There are gearbox oil additives like Slick 50 and others that may help reduce friction. May be worthwhile considering when changing oil.

May help Providing though there is no clutch issue, adjustment, clutch disc sticking on input shaft splines etc.

2019 310S 1.6 Sigma