mikestifel

definitely looks like a 1600 BDR motor. Engine number will be stamped on the back of the block. That VIN matches the one published in Chris Rees's book for the first BDR engined car, but I'm always suspect of those plates. Check the VIN number stamped on the chassis. Unrelated, I think I bought a CBR250R (MC19) from you a while back. Small world.

The key to changing that belt with the engine in the car is choosing the correct curse words and applying them liberally.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11OUPwT_dYY&ab_channel=StephenMorten There's a part 2 as well.

Hose clamps are indeed a deep rabbit hole. There are some good publications out there if you look, but you can definitely overthink it and go overboard. I've got a copy of Carrol Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" which is a really great resource if you can find a copy somewhere. Those extended hose clamp pliers are very interesting, I've got some motorcycles that they would be very handy for.

It's all fun and games until you encounter the BA hardware in the windscreen.

iirc the marks on the back of the pulley line up with a notch on the cam cover and are used for ignition timing. i'm sure there are people here who know a lot more than me though.

Do you know what cams you have? The pulleys should be marked.

What are your goals for the car? There's considerable overlap in performance between 40s and 45s depending on chokes etc. If you're on the track and need absolute WOT performance the 45s might be the ticket. If it's a road car you can probably get very good performance out of 40s. Just be careful and think about what you want from your car. DCOEs are great when they're set up correctly but the cost of jets and other parts can add up in a big hurry. Finding someone who knows what they're doing can make a world of difference.

242 or 243. 243 is preferable.

The chokes and auxiliary venturis will be numbered. It's pretty easy to see the numbers on the chokes, so you should be able to tell what you had and what was installed.

I switched mine from the split lock washers to nylocs. Split lock washers are basically worthless for preventing things loosening and I trust the nylocks much more. It's inside the air filter so no one else needs to know it's there.

FWIW I was able to obtain a shifter direct from Quaife.

This little gem was in my T9 when I got my car. I was able to get a new plug with a 5/8" square drive on it. Much better, but still very troublesome to get at with the gearbox in the car.

#5 mechanical

This is the fuse block from my '87. The empty spot is the heated screen, which my car does not have. the other fuse locations are consistant with the diagram in post #2 if my memory serves.