Apothecary

Also Adams & Page in High Wycombe for Yokos

Nifty...pleeeeeease dont forget my extra long centre post when you do order *smile* *smile* *smile* Paul

Stuart, Angus has a picture and description on his site here which may be of help Paul Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

Still available if anyone is interested Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

Dave, thanks. I looked at Think's web site and its not clear exactly what fitting it might be but if its what I think it could be then circa £70 seems steep! Bozz, i'm not convinced it is necessary but if it was a cheap item I might have had a go. I guess the alternative is always to crank the engine over while the immobiliser is on before properly firing it. I dont think I could be bothered each time on routine running to do that though, only after a week or twos lay up. I'm not expecting premature wear anyway so will probably leave things as they are Paul

I had my car serviced in the week by James Whiting and while talking we got onto the subject of start up oil pressure. I understand that there is a one way valve that can be fitted to the air bleed hose on the apollo tank to prevent air flowing back in when the car is left standing after a run (thus avoiding delay in onset of good OP on subsequent restart). Can anyone point me in the direction of whats needed and how it fits 🤔 Thanks, Paul Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

Rich, Glad to here you are up and running. I had similar issues with the liner heights which caused HG failure so at the height yours are at I suspect that day will come around agian fairly soon ☹️ You could do worse than getting in touch with Oily directlt at DVA at Milton Keynes who sorted out my liner heights by linishing the block and having the head skimmed. Absolutely fine since Understand Logistics are not so easy for you though. Pictures of the head & liners etc on my signature link below. Oil - hopefully just a faulty sender (easily damaged on a K as its at the front and takes impact easily. Worth cleaning the connectors and checking output first. H20 Temp - I ran with a race TS (74deg IIRC) but found this far too cold for road use. It took ages for the temp to get to 60deg even and the oil stayed cold for a lot longer in winter so I switched back to the standard TS when I sorted out my coolant / replaced perishing pipes etc recently. Now warms much quicker (both water & oil) and quicker to get up to a good operating temp too (80deg). I'm surprised that one or two holes in a standard TS would keep your temp so low though...are you sure its not a lower opening TS 🤔 Paul Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

and a good source here...here

Might be worth looking into ...here No affiliation...

☹️ Can you smell any exhaust fumes in the header tank (particularly when you release the pressure first time)? If its very evident it would seem to suggest that you have a HG problem developing and worth getting tested for at a garage. Might be worth getting the tank pressure tested anyway. I know its obvious but have you checked that all the hoses are tight (both sides of the TS) and there is no possibility that air could be entering the system anywhere?

Hopefully just air that is still in the system - you could fit a bleed tee in the top heater hose (you do not say if you already have one, or indeed a heater?) which is more likely to assist in clearing the air. Hopefully it's not exhaust gases getting into your system (suggeting HG failure). I would look to an airlock solution first before worrying about HG issues but take care if you are driving the car. There is an awful lot in the archives on airlocks and bleeding just search for 'airlock' Paul Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

Neil, It sounds like you are fine. However, for piece of mind I would suggest you let it cool right down (overnight) and then top up from the highest point (your bleed tee on a level car). If after a couple of cycles (with all pipes hot and coolant obviously cycling) you can add no more coolant at your bleed tee, then I doubt you will have any air trapped More black art than science isn't it

Andy YHM

Forgot I still had this for sale Anyone looking to complete their winter upgrades 🤔..... Now DVA Powered SL No.174 Member No.109xx Pictures here

Alternatively you can always cut down your standard size plate - just need to ensure you do not go below the minimum spacing requirements between letters and edge as per the Regs.

Happened to me today for the first time..quick flick of the hazards and everything back to normal

Brilliant ...hair dryer plus dental tape (no fishing wire to hand) worked superbly. No marks on the paintwork at all Sorry Howard...couldn't save the sticky stuff ☹️ 😬

😬

I actually want to go the other way ... Currently have the badge on the rear (previous owner ordered after specing the car from new) so i do not know what its fixed on with. Could try the hair dryer method first I suppose but any thoughts on what else other than petrol etc 🤔

It's also worth considering that the cause may not be a failure in the gasket per se but may be as a result of something else (such as liner heights or a porous head)...thats also a possible DIY issue but it starts to get less and less appealing (well it did to me, which is why I sought qualified help at that point - in the form of DVA). Good luck if you do go down the DIY route

I had the same issue yesterday when doing an oil change. Couldn't get the drain plug off no matter how hard we tried with tank in situ. In the end we decided to not risk fracturing the tank and simply removed it, keeping pipes in place and had enough space to be able to move it and drain through the lower oil pipe. I know it's better to get the plug off to see what residue it has attracted but it just was not worth the risk. Of course having done the oil change I then discovered other problems...apparent leaking fuel tank (think I have solved that) ....rear brake light failure (faulty pedal switch and not the wiring which I thought i had disturbed when probing around the tank)...coolant leak from the TS to submarine pipe hose after I had drained and replaced the coolant ....Oh, and of course all this having just replaced (my third?) H20 temp sender after it failed on the way back from Brands on Saturday Honestly thought of selling it yesterday but then I washed & cleaned her this morning and having sorted all the little niggly problems out I'm not so sure I could SL No.174 Now carrying DVA Power Member No.109xx Pictures here

Roon, As has been pointed out, my EU3 Supersport ECU (from a 1.6 Superlight) is in the for sale section if your interested. Cannot recommend Oily's work highly enough also SL No.174 Now carrying DVA Power Member No.109xx Pictures here

Boing Boing

Boing

The ECU from my 1.6 Superlight (EU3) 2002 MY is for sale having previously gone Emerald. Its the Rover (Motorola) M3K unit and comes WITHOUT Immobiliser and plippers (i.e just the ECU itself). Not for sale elsewhere at present. £80 plus P&P if anyone is interested Paul SL No.174 Now carrying DVA Power Member No.109xx Pictures here