STEVE GILBERT

Just get one from Ammo, after all he imports them and they are cheap enough Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

I had your set up and wasn't that impressed with the feel on my last Zetec 7. I fitted Pagids all round with dot5 and the braking was transformed I did think that Pagid front with Std rear might have worked even better (and been a lot cheaper) but I sold the car before trying it out. I reasoned very high COF rears may be counterproductive on track due to the known ****ty design of the girling claw. Might be talking **** though as even on hot trackdays the braking was always good with the RS14's all round Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

From your photos it looks like your on minilight replicas and these are pretty common. I suspect your best bet it to source a second hand rim and chuck the bent one. I shouldn't think it's worth the agro Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Simon I also had this when fitting my Nitrons I couldnt be arsed to wait so I cut and drilled out a pair of bolts to make the bushes. All the best Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Simon I had an LSD from TranX (7" Sierra) that had a centre bore to the inner diff housing (that the splined driveshafts must pass through to engage in the 'planets' and that the outer bearings press onto) that was smaller than the OD of the push fit caterham splined driveshafts. It was only after I had built it into the case in place of the 'open' diff, and tried to insert the shafts that I noticed the problem. At the time I thought TranX had machined the LSD incorrectly but maybe there are slightly differing types? My fix was to stip and have the inner bore machined out a few thou. This was the only difference. In all othe respects including the splin cut it was identical to the open diff that I had removed I would advise some careful measuring to see exacly where your problem is. You say that you think it is the bearings but that cannot be so. The bearings press onto the inner diff housing! exactly as I have described above! and it is this that the splined shafts pass through before engaging in the planets! All the best Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Steve Are you sure it's not the old Rotor arm spring out jobbie? Steve

Burtons are the distributor IIRC Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Steve I don't think that's your problem. The car's xmission is nicely designed overall with that rubber prop coupling. Does yours have that being the No1 car? Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Drill all the rivetts out on the inner cockpit pannel, so you can grip the rivnuts from behind. Once the bolts are out drill out the old rivnuts and renew them. It's a pretty common issue and I always re-tighten rivnuts with the fixing tool before re-fitting wings etc. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

My Blade has virtually no transmission noise. Firstly, make sure the grease nipples are in the HS joints and they are greased. Second, make sure all the reverserand prop bolts are tight. While your thinking about these change them all to 12.9 with Aerotight nuts. Third, make sure there is no contact from the reverser to any of the transmission tunnel (like round the transfer shift lever. Fourth, bush the transfer lever so there is slight friction to shift it. This will stop all the noise created as it wobbles around because it won't do that anymore. Fith, make sure it's full with oil. Mine now has a breather to a catch tank inside the cockpit. The reverser in mine used to always be trying to spit oil out. it no longer does this. That should keep you busy for 5 Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here. Edited by - STEVE GILBERT on 13 Nov 2004 23:11:14

Mine was 420kg with over 1/2 tank of fuel in full road trim. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

''I would like to hear from anyone that has actually set their own diff up, as I said, there is no reason why it couldn't be done at home, just it would be very tricky to get right.'' I built one into my Sierra Diff. Still silent after many k miles. If you do it yorself you know it will be right. Do a search for 'diff noise' and be stunned by how many 'pro' diffs there are out there that make a noise. I wouldn't attempt to swap a CW&P though as you need special tools to set the pinion mesh depth. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Seconded. Tony is the only person ever, to exceed my expectations on any work I have had done. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Progression drilling issue on these. Do a search in the archive Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

I'm on 4 pots but don't use them much in honesty. Do work well though. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Lee, are you checking that the springs are within service limits? I have a feeling they don't like you sitting with your foot on the clutch for long periods. If they become weak this will hasten failure of an othewise good clutch Also make sure you have the recommended ammount of free play in the cable. Regarding oil I'm on Putolene Fully Synthetic. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Jets drilled to 2mm? These jets are calibrated in typically 0.005 increments The change from 2mm to 136 is like Mains sewer to sink waste. No wonder BEC's get a bad rap for drivability. This is the 3rd Caterham BEC I have heard of with bodged drilled jets and one of them was Evo TCOTY! Imagine how it could have done with proper jets I wonder if the same monkey did all of them? Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Wow you must be driving this hard Lee or slipping the clutch a lot At 5k inspection mine were all well within the service limit with a mix of Trackdays hard road driving and loads and loads of school runs 😬 I'm not sure how your knackering them so quick Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

I have one in my garage and access to another 2 all of the 'open' type. Exactly how much are you willing to pay for one? they are extremely rare now. It must also be understood that these diffs are now possibly 30 years old and unlikely to be pristine. The diffs I have are all in used condition with unknown history. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Not sure what you mean. As I understand it 90lb will compress them an inch, another 90lb another inch and so on. I could be talking out my 🙆🏻 but that's how I thought they worked. I also have a feeling the 'progressive type' need e.g 90lb for an inch then 120 for another inch and so get progressivly harder. Could also be talkking out my 🙆🏻 on that also Anyone confirm Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

I think so but springs are cheap so what the hell. Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Noger You may recall I did a load of testing of underbonnet temps on my Blade in early summer. There was bugger all difference between OAT and temp at the bellmouth when moving, perhaps a couple of deg at most and my tests proved that an airbox on the Blade is a total waste of time and money if your only aim is reduction of CT Ammo told me 'donkey dick' is **** for flow so avoid that if poss. If you need 'Socks' I have a full set, used for 50miles before fitting TTS jet kit that are for sale. The Nigerian who won the auction on ebay and sent me a cheque for £3k won't be getting them. Fecking 419 scammers Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Thats what I have and I can honestly say I have never been in a car that corners flatter than my Blade. For info front springs 150 with wide track and rears 90lb Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Peter Having done the maths for a few moments on the Duratec engine, and given thought to potential areas of gain, where does this leave you when 'plotting a potent power plant'? Are you a likely convert to this unit? Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.

Mine doesn't Mind you, It would be easy to use the engine as a 'stressed member' as in the bikes. The mounts are very nearly in the right place. Having said that I haven't noticed any handling problems 😬 All the best Steve See My Caterham Fireblade Here.