CycleSi

The conversion I have done with the lowering brackets was also to LED headlights and it is one of the best upgrades I've done. Once Jonathan has explained how to post photos then I'll take some of the brackets and the LED's themselves.

If you can explain how I can put some photos up then I'll take some tomorrow. Easy step by step instructions are preferable. Thanks.

I tried to find somebody in the south (I am based between London and Oxford) to fit PPF and it took me ages, but I finally discovered these people and they did an excellent job so I can happily recommend them. The contact there is JP: http://www.ultimatecardetailing.co.uk/ They are in Watford.

I have done this successfully so PM me and I'll send you some photos as I seem incapable of posting photos on here :-)

Update on this for your future reference - it turns out that M3.5 x 1.5" screws also fit nicely. These are the same as used in light fitting sockets apparently. I couldn't find any 4BA locally and another fellow Caterham owner suggested the M3.5's which worked a treat.

Brilliant - thank you.

What size are the long, thin screws that hold the rear light lens cover on please? They appear to be similar to M4 but not quite, so now I'm wondering whether they are an imperial size?

Sorry Anthony - I don't know exactly what was fixed/replaced, but it was done by Lee @ Wood Auto who I stumbled across on the internet and he was brilliant. Real old school kind of chap. Charged me £80 inc. VAT & shipping. Wood Auto Supplies Ltd Cromwell Works · Colne Road Huddersfield · HD1 3ES United Kingdom tel. +44 (0)1484 439000

UPDATE - everything was pointing towards the new alternator being at fault so I ripped everything out/off today (including the exhaust) and refitted the original (now repaired) Brise alternator and everything is working perfectly again. Just goes to show that identical alternators on the outside can be very different internally in terms of stators and other electrical gubbins.

That sounds like a good idea to test that theory. I'll have a word with my mechanic mate and see what we find. Thanks.

Hopefully you are right. Is there any way of testing/checking this? BTW, the belt is the correct tension and definitely not loose.

Hi Jonathan - those voltages are what we took on Thursday using firstly Steve's laptop for the MBE ECU and then secondly directly from the battery using a meter. I have wired it up exactly the same as the old Brise alternator as they are identical. I just unplugged the two wires from the old one and plugged them into the same terminals on the new one. I don't know what the lamp is - I don't really know what you mean other than it is the standard Caterham rev counter.

My Brise alternator failed recently on my R300K and Brise didn't have one in stock so I bought an equivalent AC Delco version (it looks identical). Fitted it and all seemed fine. However, I have now noticed that around 5000 rpm and above, the red ignition light comes on. I am using exactly the same pulley sizes & drive belt as before. I was at Track n' Road with the two Steves on Thursday and they tested and it shows that the alternator seems to be working fine throughout the rev range even when the red light comes on above 5000 rpm as the battery is still showing around 14.0/14.1 volts so the battery is obviously charging. If the revs drop below 5000 then there is no red light and again the battery is showing around 14.0/14.1. So it all seems to be working except for the red light coming on at higher revs. I'm a bit confused why this might be happening and having the red light on indicates something is wrong. Any ideas please?

It could easily be that John I guess; but I'm not going to take the engine & gearbox out again - I'll just wait until it gets worse or fails completely. The CRB pre-load all seems a bit hit or miss to me.

Upon further investigation it seems like the squeak is coming from inside the bell-housing around the clutch release bearing. This was only replaced last year. Do CRB's squeak?

I have a 2002 R300K with a 6 speed box and noticed a month ago there was a squeaking sound when I depressed the clutch, but quiet when I released it. I sprayed some spray grease down the cable from the pedal box end and it was nice & quiet again. Just returned from a trip to Wales and the squeaking noise has reappeared both when depressing and releasing the clutch and spray grease doesn't appear to cure it. I am fairly certain it is the cable and not the release bearing or clutch itself. Should I just fit a new cable and be done with it or could it be anything else? It is not the clutch pedal pivot. Thanks.

That was us - 621 miles in 2 days on the awesome Welsh roads. Highly recommended !!!

Go to a local bike shop and buy a universal inner brake cable. It fits the roller barrel linkage perfectly - just chop off the end you don't need.

Brilliant - that's it. Many thanks, CycleSi

What is the name of the part that attaches to the base of the drivers side windscreen stanchion that covers the red battery cut off switch? It is sort of horseshoe shaped. Mine has rusted and is scratched. Thanks.

Hi Rob, I assume you got back ok? As you know, I also got black flagged for noise in the first session of the day so had to (annoyingly) short shift the rest of the day too. I have just received some new Acousta-Fil from Textile Technologies which I'll repack over the next week or so. I enjoyed chatting over lunch - many thanks. See you on track again soon hopefully. Simon

I have recently started using "Radarbot" in my Caterham & M3 and find it very good. It's a free App and works well on an iPhone. Off to Cadwell Park tomorrow so will test it on the way no doubt given it's a 200 mile journey and the boys I'm going with like to 'press on' !!!

Speak to Rob @ Ratrace Motorsport in Potters Bar.

There is no way to adjust/tighten the belt. You just slide it on, but it is a very tight fit - I know as I have done it several times. I have used a little fairy liquid in the past to 'assist' fitting, but be prepared to swear quite a lot.

Anybody going to this? Are there any blats/groups/routes there planned that I can join in my R300?