CycleSi

Something like that. We've been doing "Boys trips" away since 1998. Le Mans, Classic, 'Ring, Spa, the UK circuits - that sort of thing.

On a 4 day road trip including Cadwell Park and Snetterton. 20 of us. Just got home. Great week !!!

Really pleased for you. I had a similar experience until I had new liners fitted and then honed properly.

Hi Robert, I hope you're well? I would look at four key things: 1) Fit an Elite or Sadev sequential 6 speed box. 2) Fit an aero screen. 3) Fit a 4:2:1 manifold & exhaust fabricated by somebody who really understands exhausts and pipe & silencer sizing. 4) Then get it mapped by somebody like Troy at Northampton Motorsport or at Track n' Road in Rainham. Regards, Simon

Please can you tell me what the correct LED number plate bulbs are.

Northampton Motorsport did mine - speak to Troy.

I think you'll find the oil capacity on the 6 speed gearbox is 1.9L.

I've just removed mine as I've fitted LED's with built in indicators. Send me a PM and I'll send you some photos to see if they're what you're looking for.

As far as I know Brise aren't open at 10.00pm on a Sunday evening, but the good people of BC are :-) So to answer: The light doesn't come on, but the battery is charging fine. It's probably best to forget any original wires as I know the wiring has been messed around with and chopped & cut out hence the idea of starting from scratch and bypassing/adding a new length of wire if that is possible. I don't have a multimeter but a good friend of mine does (he works for Bosch) and often works on my Caterham, but we don't have a wiring diagram.

I also have a Brise alternator (with I believe the type 2 connections) but since it was fitted and since somebody did some work on the car I no longer have a red ignition light when I turn on the ignition. This is obviously fairly crucial as I'll have no way of knowing if the alternator packs up or the belt comes off whilst driving. My question is can I add a new wire or a direct feed thus bypassing any existing wiring? Or, alternatively what can be done to ensure there is a red light when I turn the ignition on? Many thanks, CycleSi

I went for Quantum One Zero's and they are excellent. The only thing I would do is go for the progressive rear springs and not the linear one's (which Simon supplied with the dampers initially) as I found them too stiff & harsh. Simon then very kindly took the linear springs back and replaced them with progressive springs and that sorted it. Interestingly I tend to drive it everywhere on the softest settings all round, except when on track but Simon will recommend settings depending on your preference and driving style. The most important thing is to then go and get a full geometry set up and flat flooring session with somebody who knows what they're doing. I would personally recommend Andy Jupp at Partridge Green Motorsport who works closely with Simon anyway.

I have just fitted the 8631 Evo's and although I can't give you any data or beam lengths as such, what I can say is they are brilliant in terms of brightness, but more importantly the beam pattern which is what the previous bi-xenon kit lacked. It finally feels safe driving fast at night in a Caterham and I never thought I'd say that. I was a bit apprehensive given the cost that they wouldn't be much/any better than the cheap ebay/chinese LED's but they are. Given that I've fitted them in 5 3/4 bowls and lowered brackets I am amazed how effective they are. They light up the side of the road as well as everything in front of you which was always a problem before. A lot of money - yes ! Worth it - most definitely !!! If anybody wants to see what they're like then they are welcome to visit me or hook up at the many track days I do each year.

When will the Cadwell Park date be confirmed? Can do the 30th, but not the 29th due to the Adele concert so am keeping my fingers crossed it's on the Friday.

Thanks for that - yours look good !

Can you clarify which make of LED headlights they are please. I'm just finishing fitting the JW Speaker one's from the US after having done considerable research. So far, so good; they are a massive improvement over the bi-xenon's which I fitted a few years ago. Once completed, I'll attempt to get some photos posted up.

Fitted an Antigravity AG1601 Lithium Ion battery and it is excellent. Massive cranking power and it only weighs 1.1kg. A really good 'upgrade' in my opinion.

The short answer is get yourself down to Andy Jupp at Partridge Green Motorsport and he will set your car up and that will transform the handling. He isn't too far from you. Merry Christmas, Simon

Hi Robert - I've been chatting to Andy a lot recently about 'your' headlights and have pretty much decided to go for them myself. Please can you take some photos of them and either post them on here or, if it's easier, email them directly to me. Ideally I'd like to see what they look like mounted in the headlight casings (mine are the 5 3/4" version) and more importantly what they look like from behind the wheel on dipped and main beam. I live in South Bucks so you're not exactly just round the corner otherwise I'd take a trip out and take a look. Thanks in advance. CycleSi

It's not the actual sensor I need, but the plug part as in the other post currently on BC entitled "Sourcing a new connector for a K-Series coolant sensor". Sounds like we're both after the same thing.

Will do - about to fly to Europe for a few days so will take a photo upon my return. The battle will be how to work out how to upload the photo onto here

Thank you for all of your helpful suggestions. I am pleased to say it is now sorted. I managed to split the large, grey 14 pin connector and sure enough there were signs of 'green' corrosion so after some careful application of contact cleaner everything was nice & clean again. However, that didn't actually cure the cold starting issue. The actual problem was the small coolant temp sensor on the left hand side of the engine in front of the battery. I've had trouble with this in the past and it looked like the two small pins were not located properly so with a small pointy dentist type tool and some more contact cleaner everything was re-set. The result being the engine starts on the button no matter how cold it is and the added bonus is the very slight misfire I had over 7000 rpm has now also gone. I would like to replace the coolant temp sensor (if that is what it is called) but I'm not sure where I would get one from. Any ideas? Thanks again everybody.

Thanks Piers - I have found it tucked away. Not sure my hands are going to squeeze in there to check it, but I'll persist. I'll also check/balance the roller barrels too.

Please could you (or somebody) post a picture/photo of the 14 pin connector under the throttle bodies that you're talking about. If it's easier you can send it directly to me at: simonwinfield@hotmail.com Thank you.

1) The cranking speed does seem normal. 2) It doesn't appear to 'catch' until the 6th or 7th attempt 3) It is fine at tickover once started. 4) What should the minimum voltage be whilst cranking? 5) I'm going to check all connection & earths and try the TPS reset (not sure whether it has that 'facility' though). 6) Troy at Northampton Motorsport mapped it, but I don't recall discussing a cold start map. Thanks again......

Thanks for the helpful replies chaps. I will check, measure & reset and hope that I find something.