CycleSi
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Everything posted by CycleSi
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Charles Dunn Motor Engineers in Wooburn Green are definitely worth contacting about this (01628 528338). I dropped my R500K off there only this morning.
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That looks like the underside of my 6 speed box. Redline MTL 75w80 works best for me.
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Another vote for Rob @ Ratrace. He built me an engine 5 years ago (1.8 K making 237bhp/163lbft) and it is still phenomenal !!!
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Actually, Troy can access/unlock MBE ECU's too. He did mine and mapped it perfectly. That said, I have also used Steve G/Luke S and they are equally excellent. You're in good hands with either.
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Don't go too stiff; especially on the rear !!! Simon Rogers will tell you "some roll means more grip"
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I have got Nitrons on my R300 and it's a doddle to adjust both front & rear. You don't need to remove the rear wheels. You can adjust the clicker with everything in place on the ground. FYI, I run the fronts @ minus 14 from hard and the rears @ minus 18 from hard on the road and I find that spot on; stiffening them up 4 clicks for track days.
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I fitted a Pace dry sump kit to my R300 with a 237 bhp 1.8K and have had no problems at all. Pace sold out to Neil Brown Engineering a while back: https://www.pacepumps.co.uk/dry-sump-kits
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@Doc007 - the reason I suggested Surrey Rolling Road was because you just said you just wanted a power run and didn't mention mapping/tuning etc. I had my R500K mapped by Steve Greenald at Team Leos and they were excellent, but a power run and mapping are two very different things hence the two different recommendations. Hope this helps?
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Not that close, but highly recommended: http://www.surreyrollingroad.co.uk/index.php
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For those of you having trouble contacting/finding Rob @ Ratrace he has recently moved premises. He is now in Barnet EN5 2AG - this postcode will take you straight to him. He is contactable on 07956 269605.
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Been out for a 100 miles or so this morning and it is definitely smoother/better left disconnected, so unless anyone tells me otherwise that is how I will leave it. Thanks for your input chaps.
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It has been at this tuned level since 2018 so it is not recent.
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@ David - I have now fitted a new sensor and it is noticeably better, but it still has a much smoother idle when disconnected so I'm tempted to leave it disconnected. I guess my concern is will it do the AFR any harm in terms of running lean? You said it only 'fine tuned' the map settings so I'm thinking it shouldn't have much of a detrimental effect, but please correct/educate me if I'm wrong. Many thanks, Si
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Thanks Amos and David - that all makes perfect sense to me. I have ordered a new sensor and will fit that; but if it still idles better without it connected then I'll run it that way. I'll let you know my findings accordingly.
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Got a 2002 1.8 R300K Superlight (but Ratrace Motorsport rebuilt and tuned to R500 232bhp spec) with Roller Barrels (balanced & optimised) and a MBE 967 ECU. The idle has always been a little erratic and less than smooth. Whilst playing around with it today I discovered if I disconnect the plug from the intake air temp sensor which is in the roller barrels back plate, the engine immediately smooths out and maintains a rock solid idle speed. Plugging it back in makes it run noticeably less smoothly. My questions are: 1) Can I leave it permanently disconnected and/or will it do any harm. 2) Should I simply replace the sensor with a new one? TIA, Si
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Many people have found the quality of AP clutches has deteriorated over the past few years whereas I have yet to hear anything bad about Helix.
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Go for a Helix. Don't go with AP Racing. Yes; replace the CRB at the same time for sure.
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Hi Mark - that was me. I'd been with the ReHab lot earlier in the day. I live in Hazlemere so I'm close to The Squirrel, but I work on Saturdays so can't get to the Penn 7's meet (I own Cycle Care; the bike shop in High Wycombe). Both of your cars looked great and went well :-) Cheers, Simon
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Of course, I didn't mean gel - sorry, I was thinking of something else. I went for their PC 625 model by the way as that was the perfect fit in my R300.
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I had (until recently) an Anti Gravity Li-Ion battery in my 7 and although it did the job just fine it suddenly started to swell up and not want to start the car as easily as it had always done before. The people who maintain my 7 also look after a lot of race cars/teams and they said they are increasingly seeing Li-Ion batteries catch fire so advised me to replace it asap. Upon their recommendation I fitted an Odyssey Gel battery and all is well again. I'm not saying I'm against Li-Ion batteries, but I agree with others who say some kind of circuit protection is vital.
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Another thumbs up for Rob @ Ratrace from me too.
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Thank you both for this. My issue is that I can do the mechanical adjustment to the idle speed screw, but I cannot reset the TPS as I don't have Easimap or a meter. Are you saying if I increase the idle speed it will throw the TPS out and run like a bag of nails?
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The idle speed is a little low on my 2002 R300 1.8K with roller barrels and an MBE ECU. When hot it is currently around 800/850 rpm but it seems happiest around 1050 rpm. If I simply increase the idle speed on the roller barrel linkage will it affect the TPS voltage? I ask because I recall being told if you adjust the idle speed then the TPS will also need resetting. Thanks in advance.
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Dave; check your Inbox as I've sent you a message about the Pulsar.
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I'd be happy to do all of that if I knew what it meant, but it's far too complicated for me. I'm happy to take some photos on my iPhone though and email them to people if they PM with their email address.
