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Richard K

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Everything posted by Richard K

  1. Arno - Did you get this sorted or do you still need help? Richard
  2. James, Have sent you a Blatmail with my tel. no. Richard
  3. Well I have dragged them down out of loft. Condition is as you would expect after 15+ years use The back is fine - no splits just need cleaning. The seat bases are OK but one has small split about 3-4 cm. where stitching has gone. They are yours for free if you want them. Let me know if you want pictures and I will try to sort over the weekend. Richard
  4. Hi James I have an old bench set in the loft. They came out of an 1989 S3 DD about 10 years ago I'll get up there and see if I can find them to check condition. Richard
  5. John I think that if you left only one side and can rotate the rear wheel = No LSD Richard
  6. Richard K

    Which aeroscreen?

    Try sitting a car with clear its great I have a clear JPE style 😬 If I were buying today it would the clear from Meteor. Richard
  7. Well I have completed the timing set up. As described in my first post. Ensure tappets on No. 1 are rocking. Place gauge on inlet valve. Zero. Rotate crank clockwise until the gauge begins to register movement. Continue clockwise and stop when No. 1 piston is at TDC. Take reading. Now without moving the crank, place gauge onto exhaust valve. Rotate crank clockwise until exhaust valve is fully closed. Take reading. Add intake and exhaust figs. together. Divide by 5 then multiply by 3. This gives max advanced. Add intake and exhaust figs. together. Divide by 2. This gives max retard. Add max advance and max retard figs. together then divide by 2. This gives optimum fig. for cam. Rotate cam around until tappets on No.1 are rocking. Set up gauge on inlet valve. Zero. Rotate clockwise until the gauge reads 'optimum fig.' The No.1 piston should be at or very near TDC. If not at TDC, unlock vernier, rotate engine (either direction) until TDC. Lock vernier, then re-check. Also found this You Tube Vid. Thanks for all the advice. Richard Edited by - Richard K on 2 Jun 2014 08:10:36
  8. Yes - I have the Catalogue it came from. But still not sure how to time the cam The explanation above came one of 'The two Steve's', but I was not sure that I understood him at the time. The car was only putting out 104 bhp and he said the cam was at least one tooth out. I need someone to explain in step by step terms Richard
  9. Engine is a 1700 X/flow I have fitted a Venire so can adjust. I have been told to ensure the tappets of No.1 are rocking. Set up gauge on inlet valve and measure the ‘lift’. I assume I am rotating the crank clockwise. When do I stop? When the piston is at TDC? Then move the gauge onto the exhaust valve and measure the ‘lift’. Again when do I stop? When the exhaust valve is closed? Adding inlet and exhaust figures together then divide by 5 the X by 3 gives the max advance. Adding inlet and exhaust figures together and divide by 2 gives max retard. Take Max advance ‘add’ Max retard then divide by 2 to optimum Cam position when piston is at TDC. Place gauge on inlet valve when closed and open until optimum Cam position figure is reached. Then check if piston is at TDC. I think I understand the maths but can someone please correct me if I have the procedure wrong. Thanks Richard
  10. Its Track 'n' Road I'll be there on 12 May 😬 Richard
  11. I have a Vulcan Engine that was rebuilt with parts from Burton last year. No experience of Burton heads but my advice would be to get your existing head 'refreshed' and spend the remainder on a rolling road session to sort out the fuel issue with the carbs. Richard
  12. Hi Duckpit You are ahead of me. I was running the standard dizzy just to get the engine run in. Only covered 300 miles so far but have decided to give the Amethyst a go. Removing the distributor I could not 'get inside' to lock down the advance mec. I was close to rounding off one the x head screws so have decided to sent the unit away to Aldon. Richard
  13. OK here is my experience of the LED lights in the 7" headlight bowl. The light V directional and on my lights the 'side light' bulb is located below and slightly to right of the main / dip headlight. Because of this when the LED bulb is in place, it points up at a 45 deg angle. The light v bright but only from above the line of the headlight. Looking straight ahead the appearance reflected on bowl is 'dim'. I have gone back to the LEDs with an array of diodes that bought last year. I will try them in tin top as the bulb holder faces directly forward in that car. Richard
  14. Got mine today as well I'll see how they compare with my existing LED side lights that I fitted last year. Richard
  15. Nothing arrived as yet 🤔 I'll post here when they do Richard
  16. Just ordered 2x lights Fingers 'X' ed Richard
  17. Yes and Halfords are doing BOGOF at the moment (about £26. each) Richard
  18. Just a quick up date on The "Amethyst" 3d ignition system and a Webber TPS I ordered. To complete the installation you will need a 3 pin Minitimer connector to connect the Aldon "Amethyst" 3d ignition system to the Webber TPS. Just need to solder it on Its a shame that Aldon don't memtion this but is not hard to find. Got mine from here Richard
  19. The "Amethyst" 3d ignition system and a Webber TPS have arrived 😬 Q. Roger says the ignition should ideally be 35 deg. Max at high revs. If the static timing is at 10 deg. Do I only need to ensure the system "adds" a further 25 deg. The instructions recommend Max advance of 34 deg. When I get it all fitted I will arrange a RR session. Just need get it running for now. Richard
  20. What about going down the Lotus S2 route, taking out tubes. Only joking 😬 Consder the wiring loom - only use wire for the instruments left. Richard Edited by - Richard K on 7 Oct 2013 12:17:03 Edited by - Richard K on 7 Oct 2013 12:17:57
  21. Hi Nick, The price for the TPS and Amethyst comes in at £285.75 with VAT and Shipping. They add the VAT to £150 bring the price up to £180. The Ebay site does free shipping. Ill check if they can also do the TPS. Looks like this will become my winter up grade 😬 Richard
  22. Here is a link to the Aldon "Amethyst' site here You just need a suitable TPS I already have the Aldon ignitor electronic ignition unit that works well. NB Ebay price £180.00 😬 Richard
  23. Thought I would test this here Edited by - Richard K on 1 Oct 2013 13:26:12 Edited by - Richard K on 1 Oct 2013 13:28:37
  24. Thanks Roger, They are currently set at : Inlet 0.10" Ex 0.22" So I will slacken off. Engine has just been rebuilt. Done about 100 miles and no more than 2,500 rpm. Hopefully no damage done. Richard
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