philwaters

Depends on how much work you are prepared/ happy doing yourself really. The chassis would go back to Arch but they will want it stripped down (no engine, suspension, etc to get in their way. When I did mine I went a bit further and removed the skins myself to save a bit more cash as it saved them doing it. For paint you can use a few that are mentioned on here - TSK being the most popular and Tony did a cracking job on mine. Depends on paint choice and stripes/bands, etc. Costs - I paid 750 for the skins (sides + rear) and another 800 for the paint job. That was back in 02, so I would imagine it would be closer to 850 & 900 now. If you are not happy stripping the car then you will need to allow for somewhere to have the car and do that work, plus putting it back together again - 3 days to strip and 4 or 5 to rebuild. Phil Waters

The leather seats will give you the maximum width as they don't have any sides taking up room. The Tillets have sides which wrap up around you and hold you more firmly in place, or stop your 🙆🏻 from fitting - depending how you look at it 😬 Phil Waters

Not specifically for a K, but usual is 1 - 2 bar for tick-over, warm and 4 - 5 bar when driving, maybe a bit higher depending on Apollo tanks, oil grade, etc. When I first got mine, my first drive, having just built it and got the plates that morning was with my brother in the car. We pulled up to some traffic lights about 5 miles from home and I glanced at the oil to see it at the first line above the red. I was 19yrs old and it was my first car, no experience of what it should be, apart from the stuff in the manual about getting 4 bar when running. Panic sets in and I pull over to check level and for leaks... followed by a very steady drive home staring at the gauge (which of course was showing good pressure when running normally). I phoned Caterham only to be told 'that's is normal Sir, you muppet!' 😬 Phil Waters

Dave, try the rally places for RS2000 bellhousings, or Burton have one at the bottom of this page Phil Waters

I've used Armoral (sp) which brings the black up nicely and seems to last well. OTherwise I'd just clean with WD40 or some brake cleaner on a rag. Don't use anything abrasive as it will remove the black coating frm the Ali planel. Phil Waters

Tell me about it 😬 But thanks. Phil Waters

Hi John, There is a ReHaB meeting this week on Thursday at the HatchGate Pub in Bramshill - this is the local area meeting for North Hampshire and Berkshire. If the weather is good there should be a number of cars you can look over to gauge the sort of conditions you should expect to find. I'm also in Reading and can help out with viewings if required. Phil Waters

A write up of my conversion can be found here But basically: - Propshaft is shorter and with different flange - can send yours away - Brake lines need re-making or make up some flexible braided hoses - Axle needs suitable flange (Anglia) fitting + damper and A-frame mounts - The diff nose is offset so will hit the chassis under hard cornering - you will need to move the ali away on the drivers side. - Front hubs from Caterham - New wheels to suit Ford pitch. - Alternative is to have the LA hubs machined with Ital spacing to keep your current wheels and hubs. Think that is it. Phil Waters

Great, thanks, that's a good starting point for my plan. Phil Waters

Could someone do me a favour and stick a tape measure over a rear drop link on a rear anti-roll bar. Just trying to suss out how it will fit on my LA car Cheers Phil Waters

Thanks guys, useful info. Just need to know if it is 2lt or 2.3lt? Does one cost significantly more than the other? Would rather have a buzzy, revvy engine. I'm asuming a 2lt would give that more than a 2.3? Phil Waters

Valid question but a) it doesn't leave a much scope for future upgrades (over 200hp starts costing lots - I've got one). b) ideally we (royal we - i.e. Jason, the owner) wants a current engine. c) a Duratec is lighter and so the car should handle in a similar way to the k car. Anyone have a list of parts that are needed? Phil Waters

Tony - it is, but a trip to Arch and TSK is in the plan... I'm just trying to learn about Duratec conversions as fast as I can... Peter - Yep, accounted for - that's one reason we are thinking Duratec, we'll have a freshly skinned car to start with and the K may need a re-fresh or taking to 1900cc (rude not to), so want to see how the costs compare. Phil Waters

Looking for some info on this conversion for a friend (who is busy doing sums). What is needed to go from a K car to Duratec? We have an Emerald ECU already, but other than that I think most of the engine stuff needs replacing? Can we re-use anything (alternator, etc)? Trying to do this on a tight budget in order to get the car back on the road after a 3(+) year lay off ☹️ What are the various engine specs we should look at - want an ultra reliable engine with a min of 185hp. Should we look at 2lt or 2.3lt? Is there any cost difference between them now or for later upgrades? Phil Waters

😬 Phil Waters

I took mine off the car last year, after I'd had a rolling road to set everything up, I then copied the map over to a second slot in the K3 and gave it a leaner target map on light throttle loads for and let it produce a cruising map for touring. Once it was done, I saw no reason to keep it on the car as the readout was only acting as a worry gauge and I was looking at it too often. Phil Waters

Rob W heading towards the battle field (Basingrad central) in what looked like a Morgan, looking Phil Waters

Hi Bob, Didn't spot you I'm afraid, too busy looking at the slow taffic in front - didn't they know I'd booked the road? Phil Waters

Don't worry, I think I have a cunning plan 😬 Thanks for your help and good luck with the sale (although you know you'll miss it!!) Phil Waters

Thanks Howard - Does look simple enough, although I am without those brackets on my axle... that'll make it more interesting Phil Waters

Shame to see this - especially as I need a pic of your rear anti rollbar If this is Paul Harvey's old car (pink) and owned by Alan Maynard (sp) then I used to see it quite often and it was a very nice and very quick car. Phil Waters

😬 (as a CAD user) Phil Waters

Hi Howard, Don't suppose you've had chance to take a couple of snaps of your arrangement have you? Phil Waters

A couple of quotes from my website: Pic of the bellhousing cut down on one side here and here showing it in place with the gaiter fitted. Hope that helps. Phil Waters

I apologise Howard 😶‍🌫️ Do you have any pictures? Which axle are you running, Ford or Ital or James Whiting Ital special? I can't see any place on my Ford axle to attach a ARB to, I only have the damper and A-frame points, nothing else. Phil Waters