philwaters

I've used these guys before - here and this size is pretty close if you can live with a 1/4" / 6.35mm wall

Arrr - enough said

I thought your was a LA car....

My Zetec engine bay here

I have to keep the rear to the softest setting as the AVOs can be a little harsh. Which is why I ended up changing to Protech's - I found the rear too skittish as it was always too hard. The Protech's range can be adjusted to suit - i.e you get x number of clicks, but if you want them softer than the default, or can change the range to give you softer settings, or I guess harder as well. I have found that around 4 clicks on mine is about right. Much more compliant ride.

Running Protech dampers on my LA with a zetec. springs are 250 to 300lb on the front and 115lb rears.

hmmm, working again... weird

Testing....

I've got a complete widetrack kit in my loft (along with a new steering rack) and am starting to think about when and how to go about getting it swapped over. The issue is I am coming from a classic set-up ('96 Classic) so my lower wishbones currently have the trunnion set-up and the front fixing fits over a spigot sticking out of the chassis, rather than a threaded bush inside the chassis (as per a De-Dion). So, I know that Arch can make the necessary changes for me and I am going to chat to Bruce about this, but I'm trying to work out some form of logistics. I don't have a trailer so would need to drive the car there really. So, first question is can the old wishbones be refitted without the spigot to allow me to drive home again? Obviously the current bushes won't work as the bolt size is bigger - could the bush me modified to suit or would they eat themseves on the thread of the bolts? Second question is about damper length - I've read a mixture of threads that either say you need longer one and some say you don't. I don't thnik I can use the extension pieces because I am not running standard dampers (AVO's) - if I need longer dampers, is the best way forward to just add the length of the extension part to the open & closed lengths of the damper I have or is there a better solution (more or less travel? etc) Cheers, that's all for now

I produced the original drawing and made a batch of 5 pairs for local club mates. Steve then did a couple of mini-production runs. See here I can't lay my hands on the drawing right now, so to save me hunting around, if you want a copy let me know and I'll see if I can find it elsewhere.... it were years ago!

Not sure if you can make it fit or not - but I found the same here

Sump plug for me too - my undertray protects the wire for any flying stones etc.. been there since I fitted the engine in 2001 and never had a problem. Only issue might be that it isn't really the temp of the oil 'in' the engine, rather the pool in the sump, but that should be being circulated and therefore representative.

I've got a very nice ported Zetec head (plus big valves) in my loft that Ammo did for me... I'm just waiting for the garage extension to be done before I can get around to fitting it. Receco - give him a call. I'm going to have a 200bhp head from my silvertop going spare ... but I don't know when - I never have been good at .... timing 200nhp is pretty easy with basic porting and some 285 profile cams (I have been running Pipers, but Kent will give similar power). Phil Waters

I believe it will fit, however I would add that I bought one for mine and ended up taking it back as it would have been a lot of effort to make it fit and didn't think the clips could be easily made to fit. I went to ITG and got a custom made filter made see my write up here. Not a cheap option though, so if you can make the Pipercross one fit it would be cheaper. Phil Waters

If you can wait until the winter I'll have 4 std silvertop pistons spare..... Phil Waters

Interesting, I wouldn't have thought that the market was big enough, but I guess if you can make them cheap enough... Phil Waters

Thanks all. I spoke to Bruce on Friday morning who said it would be a very involved job to get my front end to match the 2006.5 spec as he called it with the separate top damper mounting position. I think standard widetrack is going to be the route to take, much as I'd like to try the inboard dampers, etc, I don't think it is economic. Next question then - anyone know the damper length (open and closed) for normal widetrack? Phil Waters

I run my live axle car with 0° toe - i.e. parallel. This gives a nice neutral feel and it doesn't tram line. As for rake - yes it does effect the handling of a LA car - it really caught me out a while ago - have a look here. The 'standard' for a live car is, I believe, 15mm. When I had my car set to this, it was trying to kill me in any nearby hedge, so this was lowered and I am currently running 5mm, which is great. I have pretty much decided that all 'standard' setting should be treated as a starting point and you adjust your car until it feels right to you. More rake will give more oversteer, less will give you understeer, but in the middle is a point where it is neutral, but it might not provide the highest level of actual grip, but if you can make use of more of the grip it is actually quicker. Depends what you like really. That's my view anyway Phil Waters

Thanks for all the comments, some things to ponder over the next few months. I read on this thread that you can get the chassis mods at Arch to fit it to a LA car... Phil Waters

Pondering this one at the moment... Car is live axle but with double wishbone setup on the front, std track, still running trunnions at the lower joint. So either way I need new uprights/vertical links and some slight chassis mods for the lower wishbone fixing. Question is, do I go widetrack (Caterham) or Superwide (Freestyle) inboard. Yes the later is sexy looking, but do you notice the difference? If cost wasn't an issue, which is best? Thoughts and comments welcome Phil Waters

Is the an air bleed screw on them? On the Jenvey's I've got (which are DCOE twin bodies) there is a screw for each barrel that allows you to let a little bit of air to bleed through when compared to the connected (common spindle) throttle. It is a small hex screw with a locknut. So you get them matched across a spindle and then match the pairs using the normal balance screw next to the throttle stop/cable connection. Phil Waters

It might help, but the original batch was done on the se7ens list but a chap called Johnathan Rarity I think it was. I bought one but never fitted it and sold it a few years ago. It might be worth posting on the list (or drop me a mail if you'd like me to do it) as he may be able to put you in touch with the company. Phil Waters

I only changed my rear Avo dampers, keeping the Ali fronts, but bought some ProTech rear dampers which are much more adjustable and I'm really pleased with them. here - they don't brake the bank either! Phil Waters

How about these 🤔 Phil Waters

The colour, I'm afraid, is meaningless - you can also get black units Only way is to check the number of turns. I can't remember what the number is - there was a thread in the last month which gave info on the number of turns for both types. Phil Waters