alan c

Based on experience I would source them direct from AP or one of their dealers, I had quality issues with others

Apologies been busy so slow to reply Cannot access the car to double check but fairly sure the ECU is an MBE but not sure which one. I bought it second hand a long time ago. The loom was ready made and I think I got that from SBD.

I converted my VX engined car in stages to make it a little easier on the wallet. Did ECU, wiring loom and conversion to 3D ignition as stage 1. Loom had all connections for next stage. Then later I converted to Jenvey TB’s and the tank in my car was already set up so I did not have that issue which was very handy as I have a non standard “ saddle “ tank in mine but that is a different story. if I did it again I would go with the TB’s that look like standard Weber 45’s

I had a similar experience when I went to a mapped ignition on a VX16V engine running twin 45's. Little if any change in power but more drivable and mpg improved The ECU I had was overkill for what was required but I always had in mind to go to full injection which I then did some years later.

I had mine welded by local garage many years ago, with the wing off and some protection it was done in situ. They had been cut down and welded previously and one joint failed but no reason why same approach should not work, think we put a bit of steel bar in the tube to help.

Not sure about that but there are some poor copies around so in my view make sure they are genuine AP items

Mark, I have had some issues with my AP discs, most recent set was sourced for me by Premier Power who had the car at the time and I believe he got them direct from AP cheers Alan PS Are you and the local sevens group going to Snetterton for the caterham racing in August?

Spotted red 7 on A850 this morning, you had to turn round like us due to road closure for the Portree half marathon happy blatting - roads looks great

When I purchased my first 7 it had the old style hood and doors and it was a straight swap to fit new hood and doors. It was an S3 but not as old as yours. Thar said do you need the hood, just buy new doors and a half hood

Jonathan someone has done what you are suggesting but my searches for the old thread are not finding it

I did this a while ago now and from memory it is just possible to fix the Chanel's under the floor using the existing bolt holes then you need to drill new holes for the new seat mounting points. The Chanel's are also held in place with rivets, the chanel is pre drilled but you will need to drill through the floor. It all took some time to get aligned. There was a thread on here a while ago and someone made up steel (I think) plates that picked up the existing mounts and lay inside the car providing a steel section running front to back that the new seat can sit on.

I have been running them for a while, give me all the grip I need. We do some long trips and need something that can cope with everything Inc heavy rain and they have been fine for us.

So far as I am aware it's correct description is C20XE regardless of being on carbs or throttle bodies. Mine started on carbs but is now on TB's i think I got the sump baffle system for mine from jubu to replace the foam. i would say you will be fine with some mild upgrades, some people have taken this engine up to close to 300hp

When you say VXi do you mean the twin cam often called red top or C20XE? if so I would say if in ok condition the bottom end will be ok at those levels. I have this engine and it ran in standard form with Stage 1 Swindon cams and was good for about 180. Had it rebuilt by premier power, head has work done, bottom end rebuilt and balanced, lighter flywheel but same cam and standard valves and it went to 220. so head work and new cams should be close to what you are looking for but pistons may need pockets cut. talk to Stuart at Premier Power and he will help, there is a VX enthusiast on his team

At some point they also changed the location of the damper mount so depending on age of current one that may or may not be an issue